Hey, I'm new here, but I did search before posting and came up with hardly anything (Does this belong in Wheels+Tires?) I've got some questions about my front rotors/pads.

Anyways, here's my story, 93 Accord EX (4 wheel disc), 119k, nice shape, I like to keep it that way.

I haven't had any problems with the brakes, right now, my pads are getting low, I'm getting a pretty bad shaking when I'm going between like 50-70 and hit the brakes. My local Honda dealer has a special for $170.00 for rotors machined, new pads, and labor. It seems like a fair price, not cheap, but not *that* expensive. Honda guarantees 12,000 miles or one year no problems, as long as the brake pads are still good, so if the rotors become warped in that amount of time they should be covered, what I don't think they'll do is replace the rotors for me.

The other issue is that they might not be able to machine them if the rotors are too thin already. Not knowing the history of the rotors (I've had the car for 3+ years) I don't know if they can machine them. The lady gave me an estimate of $700 for the rotors/pads being replace!! She kinda pulled the number out of her ***..but I am wondering what you guys suggest?

Also my grandpa keeps telling me not to get the rotors machined because then they will warp easier because they are thinner and it will just cause you to pay for the machining, and new rotors shortly later so either replace the rotors or live with the warp. What do you think about this?

So what do you think for good prices, does the Honda warranty mean anything? I have two more "on-the-side" mechanics that I am going to ask for a price too but I wanted to do some research here.

 

170 is okay if you can't do the brakes yourself. But, my experience with newer brake systems is that you need to machine the rotors everytime you change the pads. especially if they are warped.

700 is very steap for new rotors, pads and such. Go to another shop and get an estimate if you want a second opinion.

fs

 

only thing i want to say, never machine the rotors, might as well throw them away after you get them resurfaced

 

Two new rotors at a honda dealership should only cost about $160. I have a 98 accord with 124k and this is what they quoted me. Have them check the thickness of your rotors and replace if necessary before putting on new pads.

 

Yeah, I figured $700 was steep, it seemed like she pretty much just pulled the number out of her ***... but what I really want to know (other opinions) is:

Do you recommend grinding the rotors, replacing, or keeping them??

Thanks.

 

Why not get Brembo blanks and new pads? What are blanks, 35 bucks each?

I dunno, just my .02

 

A set of Brembo blanks and AEM pads, a nice upgrade. Nothing wrong with OEM however. Take a look at tasauto.com for comparable pricing. You might want to consider going with stainless steel brake lines at the same time.

 

If you're feeling vibrations 50-70mph, then by all means go get your rotors turned. Another reply suggested that you never turn them. Why is that? If his brakes are already shaking and vibrating, then it will only get worst as time passes. It'll get to the point where he can't turn the rotors anymore and have to replace the rotors and brake pads. Your brake rotors will only get worst from here. The grooves will become deeper and the shaking and vibrating will be more obvious and at slower speeds. Save yourself some money and trouble and get your rotors turned.

$700 for new brake pads and rotors? She pulled this number out of several peoples' asses. That's really high, even for a Honda dealer. $170 sounds about right. It's a little high compared to your local garage prices, but look what you're paying for. All OEM parts and the labor done by guys who only work on Hondas all day long (expertise). I'm pretty sure the Honda warranty is solid, but read the fine print.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dockersguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...$700 for new brake pads and rotors? She pulled this number out of several peoples' asses... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Word

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2+2=5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Word</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I asked her for an written estimate (hoping for a print out), she has to borrow my pen to write like $100 per rotor, about $500 for the rest, like those were the numbers... :-\

The other issue is that I have to depress the pedal far in order to get some grip--probably need the lines bled.. is this something that isn't hard to do (like changing the oil? or a bigger task, does a Haynes manual cover it?) or should I just forget the mess, the hassle, the time and pay for it..fair price?

So it sounds to me like, I can get pads now, vibration will get worse, I can get it ground but will need rotors not long after that (I plan on having this car probably like 3 more years at least) so I should just be smart and get the rotors done??

What are the and of stainless steel lines, hard to do? This may be a stupid question but will places install parts I buy off the 'net, I guess the response is to just ask.. Thanks you've been helpful.

 

Stainless steel lines are wrapped so they dont stretch out over time. If you have to mash your pedal hard because your brakes are mushy, it's most likely that your lines are stretched out. They'll give you a stiffer pedal and more of a 'control' feeling

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accordselux &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stainless steel lines are wrapped so they dont stretch out over time. If you have to mash your pedal hard because your brakes are mushy, it's most likely that your lines are stretched out. They'll give you a stiffer pedal and more of a 'control' feeling</TD></TR></TABLE>

could be but not very likely. mostly it's you need to bleed out air bubble from your brake. flush the entire brake system while you at it, it's cost close to nothing(if you do it yourself).

 

You can definately bleed the brake lines yourself and yes the Haynes manual does cover it. It's easy, like changing your motor oil.

If you turn your rotors and get new brake pads, the shaking/vibrating problem will stop. The next time you are due for new brake pads, just check the rotors. If your rotors are still nice and flat, then just replace your brake pads. Some people believe in turning the rotors every time you change the brake pads. As for me, I just feel the rotors with my hand and if it feels flat then, I'm good to go. Yes, I know you can't feel minute grooves with your hand.

As for you having to depress your brake pedal way down to get any grip, maybe you just need new brake fluid. Brake fluid does absorb moisture as time passes and it doesn't compress as well as fresh brake fluid. Maybe you need to change it out. Or worst case scenario is that your master cylinder is out, but I don't think so (you would have very little or no brake at all).


Modified by dockersguy at 9:14 PM 7/29/2004

 

I turn mine everytime, simply because i do brake hard(socal driving )
you can get away with it sometime but i really dont want to bet on it.

oh, while you at it, flush it and refill it will dot4 brake fluid

 

2+2, i agree with you, that it would be better to replace brake fluid, ick, bubbling is no good.

I was referring to his question about stainless steel braided lines. My teacher's car was really muddy in the brakes. I took it for a drive and the pad was mushier than tapioca, and of course the general consensus was stainless steel because the brake lines were just stretched.

He asked the question of what the benefit would be.

RANT:
It's all up to your personal taste. I'm going to be boosting so I'm upgrading with Axxis/PBR Ultimates, OEM Blank Brembos, and Stainless lines. It won't stop my car from 60 to 0 in 100 feet, but i'll feel a lot better and more in control, hopefully to the success of other motorists. It's just a small improvement for the safety of myself and others.

I like to focus on all aspects of my car so it's balanced. I upgraded my speakers, I added some wood trim to the interior, and chrome door handles for aesthetics.

To balance my performance modifications, I like to maintan a strict balance of safety. I retain my airbags, do not install parts that will shatter or be harmful in an accident, and make sure my car is powerful enough stopping as it is driving.

/RANT

Basically, think about your safety and those around you. I don't know what your plans are, but proper maintenance and safety is more important than go-fast parts. I would explore several of the options we listed and decide what is a good deal for you.

Here you go! I found these searching, I hope they help, these are GOOD deals, if you decide to go this route, good luck!

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=831223

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=831188

 

why not brembro drilled/ slotted rotors and zinc coated and pbr/axxis pads. give your wheel some looks(nice looks) i know a place give a gud deal for them. interested? Their # is 714 608 0818

 

alright, gonna hijack this for a second here:

i have a 2003 Accord EX-V6 that has 13k miles on it. rotors resurfaced 3 times in 10k miles and one pad replacement per a TSB. Honda acts like i don't know how to drive. just had "Jolene" from Honda Corp authorize the rotors to be replaced once, as a "customer courtesy" but she says never again because i am clearly driving wrong. HELLO, my Miata gets beat up, not the grandpa beige Accord...

i looked at tirerack for new aftermarket rotors and pads (NOT for track use), but they don't offer front fitments, only rear. what gives? no after market brake kits for Gen 7's yet??

thanks!

 

The 7th gen accords have a major brake problem. They wear out and warp like no other. Search here for a thread, there's a whole bunch of you that are having this problem and Honda pretends it doesn't exist.

 

Just go with aftermarket rotors and pads. Brembo blanks and Hawk pads with motul brake fluid.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accordselux &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The 7th gen accords have a major brake problem. They wear out and warp like no other. Search here for a thread, there's a whole bunch of you that are having this problem and Honda pretends it doesn't exist.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well, Honda or any major automotive maker wouldn't recall on a defects(trust me, they know) unless the costs of the recall is less than the cost of warranty replacements and lawsuit of the defects.

after all, "I'll fix that for you free of charge" sounds better than "bring in your 03-04 accord because we messed up and you happens to bought one"

 

except that the "fix" is only a Band-Aid. does anyone know if Honda is "secretly" working on a new set of QUALITY rotors for Gen 7 Accords?

they are going to replace rotors for me, but what will that do if the replacements are the same crap that came from the factory?

anyone have any inside scoop that Honda Product/Part Engineers are doing something to justify their paychecks??

 

I don't think its the rotors, I think it's the whole setup, rotors, pads, calipers.

 

does anyone know when an aftermarket mfgr is going to come up with a nice option (non racing/track use). i would probably go ahead and buy some new pads and rotors but Brembo and the other guys don't make FRONT ones yet it seems, only back units.

 

I thought if it was a disc/drum setup, Hondas came with front discs and rear drums. Look around, they SHOULD have a front brake disc setfor your car more likely than a rear set.


What is your car year/trim/engine?