I've been running my ITR in local ax's using koni sports, 24 mugen rear bar, no front bar, 15x 6.5" Rotas with Falkens, f toe is 1/8 out, rear 0, lowered 1" on the stock perches with stock springs. People I've talked too suggest going to race springs as the next step, and the car will push some on exit or in a big sweeper. What are your thoughts? It will still be driven daily but I'm willing to endure some ride harshness to help it respond quicker thru the tight stuff.

Thanks..
Dan

 

It's going to be recommended... and probably not in a very nice way so here...

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If you want to be competitive, then put the front bar on, take the rear bar off (replace w/ stock), raise it back up, find some 6" wide wheels and run it in D-stock

 

Welcome Dan.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you want to be competitive, then put the front bar on, take the rear bar off (replace w/ stock), raise it back up, find some 6" wide wheels and run it in D-stock </TD></TR></TABLE>

I belive that your allowed to remove the front sway bar and remain in stock class.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rules &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

13.7 Anti Roll (Sway) Bars

a. Front anti-roll (sway) bars:

1. Substitution, addition or removal of any front anti-roll bars is permitted.
2. Substitution, addition or removal of anti-roll bars may serve no other purpose than that of an anti-roll bar.
3. The use of any bushing material is permitted.
4. No modification to the body, frame or other components to accommodate anti-roll bar addition or substitution is allowed, except for the drilling of holes for mounting bolts. Non-standard lateral members which connect between the brackets for the bar are not permitted.

b. Rear anti-roll (sway) bars:

1. May not be removed, replaced, or modified in any way. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by asmallsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I belive that your allowed to remove the front sway bar and remain in stock class.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Correct, but I wouldnt recommend it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Correct, but I wouldnt recommend it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It depends on driving habbits. Also, incase someone non R reads this thread, they could learn something new.

Since it says the front maybe swaped out with a diffrent one, a smaller one from a civic could cause the car to become nuetreal or have slight oversteer. True, haveing so much that he spins out is not a good thing, but with alot of cars, this little rule alows cars that normally plow like crazy become a little more compeditive.

 

Thanks Lee

Dan

 

keep the setup you have and get some adjustable coilover sleeves with custom spring rates. I suggest the following brand coilover sleeves:

Skunk2
Ground Control
Hypercoil

Also, either run equal rates all around or run higher in the rear. I would suggest 450 lb/in all around, to me this would be tollerable on the street and would be stiff enough for auto-x. Also, don't go lower than 450 lb/in in the front since because you are running no front swaybar in the front you will need a fairly high springrate instead. Or you can always do what you want.

 

I should clarify a couple things...I'm running the car in STX class so I'm free as far as sway bars are concerned. I found that removing the front bar reduced the big push I started out with and it rotates much better, it just doesn't feel real crisp in slaloms, so I planning on trying a smaller diameter civic bar in front to reduce some of the roll.

Dan

 

It will feel crisp if you increase the front rates substantially.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by opeth13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">keep the setup you have and get some adjustable coilover sleeves with custom spring rates. I suggest the following brand coilover sleeves:

Skunk2
Ground Control
Hypercoil

Also, either run equal rates all around or run higher in the rear. I would suggest 450 lb/in all around, to me this would be tollerable on the street and would be stiff enough for auto-x. Also, don't go lower than 450 lb/in in the front since because you are running no front swaybar in the front you will need a fairly high springrate instead. Or you can always do what you want.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The problem is, slightly moded honda's are extremly hard to compete. Just throwing money at it cause the car to become a money pit, and you'll end up racing against much harder cars. The R in stock form is great for handling. Run in stock class.

Also, mod's only help you a little bit in autocross. It is all about the driver and there skills. I say improve that, and then worry about parts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by asmallsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The problem is, slightly moded honda's are extremly hard to compete. Just throwing money at it cause the car to become a money pit, and you'll end up racing against much harder cars. The R in stock form is great for handling. Run in stock class.

Also, mod's only help you a little bit in autocross. It is all about the driver and there skills. I say improve that, and then worry about parts. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont autocross, so I shouldn't even have posted here in the first place. Just out of curiosity, what kind of cars would he be running against in the slightly modded class?

 

I just got back from a school last weekend and plan to do an Evo one in September. The guys I run against in my area and I are all pretty even.and we aren't national caliber but I want to get the car as easy to transition and be as neutral as possible.

 

Mainly, Sentra SER V-spec cars with springs,shocks bars, and Falkens.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by opeth13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont autocross, so I shouldn't even have posted here in the first place. Just out of curiosity, what kind of cars would he be running against in the slightly modded class?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, I don't have an R, so I am not 100% sure of the other cars in it's class, however, they run normally in STX (WRX's, IS300's, Evo and STI maybe? (havn't been to a SCCA autocross all year, and last year there were no moded evos around) and the other class is CSP. There, moded miata's come to mind (Miata's :heart: autocross)

I have a swap del sol (I never built it to actually compete at any level), so I am in SM2. I run up against turbo Miata's, turboed porsches, Modded Vettes, and one car that is always in my region is a v8 500hp rwd, supercharged, mustang powered ford FOCUS.

Before, I ran in DSP (couldn't run in STS since I am a 2 seater) I ran up against BMW 3-series, GSR swaped integras (Integra's are kinda alowed to swap unless it's an R swap) and a few other faster cars.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by asmallsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I have a swap del sol (I never built it to actually compete at any level), so I am in SM2. I run up against turbo Miata's, turboed porsches, Modded Vettes, and one car that is always in my region is a v8 500hp rwd, supercharged, mustang powered ford FOCUS.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

wow, thats some crazy stuf.

 

For STX... big adjustable rear bar (Whiteline sells a 24mm adj, Saner can custom make any size), stock front bar, and get the spring rates sorted - 400f/500r on Ground Control sleves should be a big improvement and tune from there - may even try a touch of toe out in the rear to make the car rotate at turn-in. Dont forget alginment and corner-weight if installing a new suspension.

You could also go to a 16x7 (or 16x8) wheel with 215/45/16 Azenis to put some more rubber down.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by opeth13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I dont autocross, so I shouldn't even have posted here in the first place. Just out of curiosity, what kind of cars would he be running against in the slightly modded class?</TD></TR></TABLE>

In Atlanta, our STX class has been a battle between 2 ITRs all year, with some SER Vs, 240s and a MINI chasing them. I'm running my ITR in DS, which is dominated by a very experienced driver in an IS300. The ITRs, WRXs and occasional BMW get to fight for 2nd.

 

Sounds like a solid plan, do you know if I should use 7" or 8" long springs? I'm working on getting Koni coil over sleeves and collars with an adaptor to use 2.5" ID springs and I think what you say about rates sounds right too. Do you know who offers 16x8" wheels?

Thanks,
Dan

 

7" springs will work fine.

You could use 8" in the front, but keeping them the same size will give you some flexibility at swapping things around.

3rd gen Mazda RX-7 wheels are 16x8 - PM 'Todd00' he was running 15x8's on his ITR and 'Rodney' was using 16x8's on his EG hatch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">7" springs will work fine.

You could use 8" in the front, but keeping them the same size will give you some flexibility at swapping things around.

3rd gen Mazda RX-7 wheels are 16x8 - PM 'Todd00' he was running 15x8's on his ITR and 'Rodney' was using 16x8's on his EG hatch.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Todd has went to something a little different in the wheel/tire size category now

 

What offset did you need to clear those 15x8's?

Did you have to roll the fenders?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What offset did you need to clear those 15x8's?

Did you have to roll the fenders?</TD></TR></TABLE>

+42 would be about perfect for a 15x8. And yeah, you'll need to roll the fenders a little.

 

Mainly, Sentra SER V-spec cars with springs,shocks bars, and Falkens.