Does anyone know how to check!? Or what the symptoms maybe, that will lead someone to believe that it's time to replace the outter or inner (maybe both) tie rods!?

thanx in advance!

 

When the seal on the ball joint is corroded and the ball joint itself is contaminated, you replace the outer tie rod. The steering wheel pulls and feels notchy. If you are capable of replacing the balljoint at the end of the tie rod, you never have to replace the entire outer tie rod. You can replace it with a urethane ball joint if you want. Replace the steering boot while you're at it. If you replace the whole outer tie rod, mark the threads and get the new tie rods as close to the same position as the old ones, so you can at least drive to the alignment shop. It will also help to keep your steering wheel centered since most alignment techs can't be bothered to center the wheel.

The inner tie rod is the same thing. If the steering gear boot gets ripped and the inner spherical bearing becomes contaminated, you have to replace the inner. Unfortunately it is all one piece and has to be replaced as a whole. I don't know of anyone repacking the inner bearing. Replacing the inner is a pain in the *** and if you do it wrong, it will come out and you will lose control of that wheel. If you do it yourself, be sure and bend that clip all the way down.

An alignment is strongly recommended if you replace the outer, and absolutely necessary if you replace the inner. Might as well let the alignment tech do the whole thing. Otherwise they get all bitchy if they find out you did it yourself. In that case, just do the whole alignment yourself. Setting toe is fairly easy and you don't need any expensive tools. You can make them yourself. There are a number of Hot-To's online.

 

to check if your tie-rods are shot:

1. jack up the front wheels
2. with the tire on the car, grasp the tire 9 o clock 3 o clock
3. push and pull at those posistions, not trying to turn the wheel but feeling for any looseness
4. also grasp 12 o clock 6 o clock and do the same thing.
5. 12-6 checks your lower ball joint
you can also have a friend push and pull if there is any looseness and you cant get under and see if its the outer tie-rod or inner.

as far as shaundrake saying to just replace the ball joint, i dont think the joint on the tie-rod is removable. its one piece the tie-rod end that is about 30-40 dollars. the lower balljoint on the lower control arm can be pressed out and that is also 40 dollars from the dealer.

when your removing the tie-rod end, count how many times you spin it to get it off, and when you put the new one on, count the same number so you dont throw off your alignment all the way.

an alignment should be done after touching suspension components, but it is not absolutly neccesary to be done the same day. after doing my tie-rod i didnt have an alignment done for a couple of months.

 

thank you both for the in-depth replies..

-- i ask because my Steering Wheel it feels a lil notchy and loose. There is some play w/ the Steering Wheel it seems, before the wheel acutally moves when i turn the Steering Wheel.. Also, it's not very responsive at all.. I feel like i have to turn more ( like turn the SW more ) in order to get the tires to move and corner properly!

-- i have NEW swaybar bushings and NEW suspension (d2 coilovers).. I did how ever replace the WHOLE suspension crossmember, that i got off a parts/junk car and kept the rack and pinion. So i assume maybe that the tie rods are damaged. Also i am running NO PowerSteering. Could NOT haveing any PS FLUID at all maybe in the rack make steering feel less responsive!?