I've removed the knuckle assembely and the 4 bolt holding the "hub" to the knuckle and the pictures in my 4 manuals show that the rotor and hub unit should just slid out...but it's stuck and doesn't

Pic:

any suggestions?


Modified by DIYaccord at 11:19 AM 7/27/2004

 

The rotor is preset onto the hub assy. Even with the bolts off you can not take it off the hub with out some type of a press.

 

edit:

do i only need to remove that green part?

 

Put those 4 bolts back in, but leave them out a few threads. Spray the area where the hub meets the knuckle down with some liquid wrench. Have a friend help you secure the whole assembly and then start wacking on the bolts to begin driving the hub off. It may take a lot of whacking to get them going, but once they start moving, it will come apart pretty easily. Use a mini sledge. If you're afraid of damaging your bolts, buy some hardened ones from the hardware. As the bolts bottom out after a beating on them, back them out a little more. Then repeat until it comes apart. A press really isn't necessary.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbowa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The rotor is preset onto the hub assy. Even with the bolts off you can not take it off the hub with out some type of a press.</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is true but this is not what he's asking. But you are correct, to remove the hub from the bearing you need a press.

To answer your question. Yes, by removing those four bolts on the back that holds the bearing to the hub the bearing/rotor/hub assembly should come out. I had the same problem when I did mine. I ended up taking it to a machine shop and had them take it all apart and put new bearings and rotor on. The bearing were from Honda and the rotors were Brembo blanks. When I picked them up they told me that the bearing was froozen/rusted in the knuckle and that why I couldn't remove it. They had to use a press to get it apart. When they reassembled everything though they cleaned it all up so that the bearing should just fall out the next time. They cleaned all the rust out and put grease in there to prevent it from happening again.

So in theory, you are correct, the assembly should come out once those bolt are removed but it doesn't always happen like that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kowalcs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Put those 4 bolts back in, but leave them out a few threads. Spray the area where the hub meets the knuckle down with some liquid wrench. Have a friend help you secure the whole assembly and then start wacking on the bolts to begin driving the hub off. It may take a lot of whacking to get them going, but once they start moving, it will come apart pretty easily. Use a mini sledge. If you're afraid of damaging your bolts, buy some hardened ones from the hardware. As the bolts bottom out after a beating on them, back them out a little more. Then repeat until it comes apart. A press really isn't necessary.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wouldn't try that. I forgot to mention. When I did mine, I took it to work where we have a arbor press. It's not as good as a hydraulic press but it works better than a hammer and I couldn't get them to budge. I had all my weight on this thing and it just didn't move. All your going to do is damage those bolts. Save yourself the time and argervation and take it to a machine shop. I only paid like 25 a side to have it done.

 

Not true. My car had 160,000 miles on it with the original rotors and by using the process I explained, I didn't damage anything. Those bolts are tough, you're not going to damage them - I didn't. Give it a try, it's not that hard. If you're handy, you don't need a press.

 

He's kinda right...

I took them to LEs schuab and they did what he did, but with an impact wrench

hey touring, what did he do before he put them back together? sanded then put lithium greese on them? so they didn't stick?

 

go to your local autoparts store and borrow a slide hammer with a hub puller, use your lugs to secure it to your hub and yank that sucker out

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DIYaccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I took them to LEs schuab and they did what he did, but with an impact wrench

hey touring, what did he do before he put them back together? sanded then put lithium greese on them? so they didn't stick?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Anybody? How can I prevent the Hub from freezing to the knuckle again?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by khoalie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go to your local autoparts store and borrow a slide hammer with a hub puller, use your lugs to secure it to your hub and yank that sucker out</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats what i did, and that is gonna take you 10 times less the amount of time than any of these other guys' ways. a slide hammer is the ****, you jus bolt it up with ur lugs and use the slide hammer and like he said, "yank that sucker out". its gonna take quite a few whacks, but it should come out fairly quickly. and you dont even have to take the 4 bolts out of the back of the hub. just remove the brake caliper and move it out of the way and attach the slide hammer and slide away. now puttin them back on is a different story. you either have to get them pressed back on by a shop or have a really powerful impact gun. at least 900 ft. lbs of torque. it took a 1000 ft. lb torque gun about a minute of continuous impact to get my axle nut back on(by the way, thats how you press the hub/disc assembly back on) now if you mess up the bearing you have to get a new one. thats the only downfall to this install. good luck man

 

doood...read the post...i already got them out

thanks for all your guy's help, but answer my other question ^^^^

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DIYaccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He's kinda right...

I took them to LEs schuab and they did what he did, but with an impact wrench

hey touring, what did he do before he put them back together? sanded then put lithium greese on them? so they didn't stick?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, I'm glad it worked out. I just don't like pounding on things like that, but thats just me. Either way it all worked out so .

To tell you the truth, I can't exactly remember what he said if he said anything. I want to say he sanded them or soemthing to remove all the rust and whatever but I'm not totally sure. I do remember him saying he greased them to help prevent anymore rust from forming. I would probably use something that can withstand some heat and resist washing away from water. Something like Valvoline Synthitic Grease or whatever it is. I used it to lube the shaft that the throw bearing slide on in the tranny, or at least I think thats what I lubed up. I used it on the sway bar endlinks, balljoints and radius rod bushings as well and it held up great. I do know it can handle some high heat though which is probably what it will be seeing down in that area. So just clean them up nicely so there is no rust and put a healthy amount of grease in there and you should be good.