3rd gen q
yes it does suck. the problem is the cylinder sleeves are made of a fiber compound which was basically honda's attempt at it (you may notice the NSX, S2000 and H22's also use fiber reinforced sleeves).
basically the cylinder lining wears prematurely, causing lots of oil burning - never good.
the big problem is that fixing it requires a full rebuild (ie not just rings and gaskets) so it's not something most people want to do on a 13+ yr old car.
basically the cylinder lining wears prematurely, causing lots of oil burning - never good.
the big problem is that fixing it requires a full rebuild (ie not just rings and gaskets) so it's not something most people want to do on a 13+ yr old car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90sr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so it should have low compression which would make the car run like **** but it still pulls hard, am i ok if i leave it or not?
does the b20a have same power and fit perfectly?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes it would have lower compression, but only because of significant blowby. and yes that is why it still pulls hard.
you can leave it, but eventually it will foul out your cat and you run the chance of eventually running dry, damaging your oil pump or ruining the crank bearings (each of these happened to a friend of mine whose 3rd went through an insane 5 engines...cursed car yes).
the JDM B20A has the same power (140hp) and fits perfectly. the USDM B20A5 has 135hp, also fits in exactly the same.
does the b20a have same power and fit perfectly?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes it would have lower compression, but only because of significant blowby. and yes that is why it still pulls hard.
you can leave it, but eventually it will foul out your cat and you run the chance of eventually running dry, damaging your oil pump or ruining the crank bearings (each of these happened to a friend of mine whose 3rd went through an insane 5 engines...cursed car yes).
the JDM B20A has the same power (140hp) and fits perfectly. the USDM B20A5 has 135hp, also fits in exactly the same.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90sr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where is a good place to find a b20a in really good shape
also if i left my b21 in would it be worth it to do some minor mods ex: intake exhaust</TD></TR></TABLE>
any good engine importer should be able to get a B20A
not worth doing anything to the B21, only things that will help is headers or cam gears, headers you'd need to get used ones and cam gears anything from newer B series will fit but won't help much.
any other mod is a waste of $$
also if i left my b21 in would it be worth it to do some minor mods ex: intake exhaust</TD></TR></TABLE>
any good engine importer should be able to get a B20A
not worth doing anything to the B21, only things that will help is headers or cam gears, headers you'd need to get used ones and cam gears anything from newer B series will fit but won't help much.
any other mod is a waste of $$
you wont need to buy a used header for the 3rd gen. You can get plenty of them new. If you have any questiuons at all, ask. I have swapped a b20a, a b20a5, and had a fully built b20a. I know a lil bout the 3rd gen and Im always happy to help.
where did you get the B20a5 and how much was it. I'm lloking to find one that has low miles and
is less than 500 bucks or so. Do you have onethat you are willing to sell or know of anyone that
has one. Any feedback would help. thanks
is less than 500 bucks or so. Do you have onethat you are willing to sell or know of anyone that
has one. Any feedback would help. thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90sr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i am looking at pacesetter headers and weopon r intake
i dont think i will do much after that but what are your thoughts on those?
also do u like the b20a?</TD></TR></TABLE>
MANY, MANY people have complained about those two products. The pacesetter header rusts apart, and the weapon R intake sucks in only hot air.
If you are lucky you can still find a DC or Neuspeed header, although both may be out of production at this point. There are also Chikara headers still in production, but I haven't heard too much about them.
As for air intakes, there were a couple of 92-95 civic air intakes that will fit VERY tightly, but will still fit without battery relocation. I had a Ractive intake in mind, but the finish quality of it is ****. All of the plating was flaking off. I also think that if you relocate your battery to the trunk, some 4th gen prelude intakes will work. Check out http://www.preludepower.com 3rd gen forums, and do a search on both of these topics and you are bound to find plenty of information. Good luck.
i dont think i will do much after that but what are your thoughts on those?
also do u like the b20a?</TD></TR></TABLE>
MANY, MANY people have complained about those two products. The pacesetter header rusts apart, and the weapon R intake sucks in only hot air.
If you are lucky you can still find a DC or Neuspeed header, although both may be out of production at this point. There are also Chikara headers still in production, but I haven't heard too much about them.
As for air intakes, there were a couple of 92-95 civic air intakes that will fit VERY tightly, but will still fit without battery relocation. I had a Ractive intake in mind, but the finish quality of it is ****. All of the plating was flaking off. I also think that if you relocate your battery to the trunk, some 4th gen prelude intakes will work. Check out http://www.preludepower.com 3rd gen forums, and do a search on both of these topics and you are bound to find plenty of information. Good luck.
In addition to the experimental sleeves, B21a motors are prone to bad valve seals or piston rings. When I sold mine recently it was burning about a quart and a half in a 400 highway mile trip.
the b20a5 engine in my 88 prelude is really good and burns no oil at 197K.
as for the headers, pacesetter is crap. i had the cat back exhaust and it just broke at the welds after a few months and it also rusted out on me. so my guess is the headers will be just as bad. also, the weapon r intake is garbage too....only sucks in hot air and is located in a bad area. i couldn't believe i paid 150 bux for it. i ended up getting a kn drop in filter.
as for the headers, pacesetter is crap. i had the cat back exhaust and it just broke at the welds after a few months and it also rusted out on me. so my guess is the headers will be just as bad. also, the weapon r intake is garbage too....only sucks in hot air and is located in a bad area. i couldn't believe i paid 150 bux for it. i ended up getting a kn drop in filter.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Not So Lude Behavior »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
MANY, MANY people have complained about those two products. The pacesetter header rusts apart, and the weapon R intake sucks in only hot air.
If you are lucky you can still find a DC or Neuspeed header, although both may be out of production at this point. There are also Chikara headers still in production, but I haven't heard too much about them.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
(like in the other thread
) i agree with this 100%
the pacesetter header for 3rd gens is terrible, DC Sports or the Neuspeed headers are the best, DC sports being THE best, dyno proven to add 12 HP at the wheels on fuel injected 3rd gens. they have been out of production for at least 2 years though.
either way B20/B21's dont' respond well to mechanical natural aspiration mods, the only reason headers make such a huge difference is because the stock ones are garbage in terms of performance.
MANY, MANY people have complained about those two products. The pacesetter header rusts apart, and the weapon R intake sucks in only hot air.
If you are lucky you can still find a DC or Neuspeed header, although both may be out of production at this point. There are also Chikara headers still in production, but I haven't heard too much about them.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
(like in the other thread
) i agree with this 100%the pacesetter header for 3rd gens is terrible, DC Sports or the Neuspeed headers are the best, DC sports being THE best, dyno proven to add 12 HP at the wheels on fuel injected 3rd gens. they have been out of production for at least 2 years though.
either way B20/B21's dont' respond well to mechanical natural aspiration mods, the only reason headers make such a huge difference is because the stock ones are garbage in terms of performance.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90sr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what else would give some decent power increases without dropping lots of $$$$$$</TD></TR></TABLE>
cam gears (for any honda b-series will work) can be tuned to give you more midrange torque and result in about 5hp in the midrange (4-5500rpm) and even out at high rpm.
you can also get an s-afc and extend the powerband of the engine (the B2xA's lean out past 6,000rpm, so power drops but you can change it so they keep making power all the way to redline).
that's it unless you want nitrous or forced induction
cam gears (for any honda b-series will work) can be tuned to give you more midrange torque and result in about 5hp in the midrange (4-5500rpm) and even out at high rpm.
you can also get an s-afc and extend the powerband of the engine (the B2xA's lean out past 6,000rpm, so power drops but you can change it so they keep making power all the way to redline).
that's it unless you want nitrous or forced induction
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kablamo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes it does suck. the problem is the cylinder sleeves are made of a fiber compound which was basically honda's attempt at it (you may notice the NSX, S2000 and H22's also use fiber reinforced sleeves).
basically the cylinder lining wears prematurely, causing lots of oil burning - never good.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
false
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by not so lude behavior »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In addition to the experimental sleeves, B21a motors are prone to bad valve seals or <U>piston rings</U>. When I sold mine recently it was burning about a quart and a half in a 400 highway mile trip.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
true
reason being: the rings used in combination with the new sleeves are the same rings used in the prior version b20a series motor. if you want a fix for it, you can get a set of oversized rings (which most often isnt needed) or a set of replacement rings. JUST MAKE SURE that the new rings your putting in are moly coated. as the ones in the b20-b21 are not and this is what causes the rings to fail on the b21.
basically the cylinder lining wears prematurely, causing lots of oil burning - never good.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
false
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by not so lude behavior »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In addition to the experimental sleeves, B21a motors are prone to bad valve seals or <U>piston rings</U>. When I sold mine recently it was burning about a quart and a half in a 400 highway mile trip.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
true
reason being: the rings used in combination with the new sleeves are the same rings used in the prior version b20a series motor. if you want a fix for it, you can get a set of oversized rings (which most often isnt needed) or a set of replacement rings. JUST MAKE SURE that the new rings your putting in are moly coated. as the ones in the b20-b21 are not and this is what causes the rings to fail on the b21.


