I was wondering what the price difference was between the two. On the other thread people said that the b18 was cheap and easy but dont you need the same parts and the b18 doesnt even come with a tranny. Ive looked at engines and it seems like b16 with motor tranny and ecu are 1300 and b18b motor only is 850, tranny is like 500 and ecu like 100 right? The way that turns out, the b18 is more expensive. Is my math wrong somewhere. Why would you go b18b. I am definitely going turbo, but not sure on which motor I want. let me know what you guys think.

 

Well the b18b comes out of the Integra LS/RS/GS if im correct? (sum1?)

Here are the specs between the b18b and b16a.

http://www.streettuners.com/cu...civic

Naturally you'll notice that b18 is a torqier engine compared to the b16a because ... well more displacement.

I mean the b16a is cheaper i guess because so many people swap them in. IMO though, The b18b will be much better to turbo charge just cause of the displacement and the strength of the block compared to the b16a.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX-Fluffy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well the b18b comes out of the Integra LS/RS/GS if im correct? (sum1?)

Here are the specs between the b18b and b16a.

http://www.streettuners.com/cu...civic

Naturally you'll notice that b18 is a torqier engine compared to the b16a because ... well more displacement.

I mean the b16a is cheaper i guess because so many people swap them in. IMO though, The b18b will be much better to turbo charge just cause of the displacement and the strength of the block compared to the b16a.</TD></TR></TABLE>

im thinking the strength of the b16a block is probably the same or stronger.

if u get the b18b swap itll cost alot more to swap in, due to the hydraulic tranny and obd1 electroincs.

the b16a swap will only need a mount kit.

 

what about a b18a

 

it would be the same as the b16a. you would need mounts, shift linkage, axles and a little mechanical knowlegde.

 

that would be a good swap but the gear ratios are kinda long,

i would get a b16a swap, have fun.

then later down the road put a b18a/b block in. and use the b16a head !

 

hmmmm, that might be the way to go. I could get the b16 now and then get a b18 block and build it. then just swap it in....nice. how much would it roughly cost to swap a b16 in assuming I do all the work? I know the motor, tranny and ecu are a total of 1300, mounts = 300, shift linkage = 50, harness = 50.... I have the axels since I believe they are the same as the zc. So the grand total is 1700 do it myself. Does this sound right to you guys.

 

I would go ls with a b16/b17 tranny. I honestly take out b16 car's all the time with the same mod's

Power is always on tap soon as you stomp the gas it's intstant no waiting around for vtec to engage.

Ill probably get some flamming but who cares.

 

Well the LS tranny is good for F/i to compensate for turbo lag. That's why Im saying the b18 is good for turbo. the b18a is obd-0 so, basically you'll need the mount kits and same things as swapping in a b16a. Hope I could have been of some better help but that's all I know. Good luck man!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX-Fluffy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well the LS tranny is good for F/i to compensate for turbo lag. That's why Im saying the b18 is good for turbo. the b18a is obd-0 so, basically you'll need the mount kits and same things as swapping in a b16a. Hope I could have been of some better help but that's all I know. Good luck man!</TD></TR></TABLE>

shorter gearing will always get you there faster. period. Use the b1r/gsr/typer tranny. any three are stronger and have the option of LSD.

matt

 

yeah, its a common myth that longer gearing is better than shorter for turbo. ive heard the hf was better for turbo than the si. Granted it is in boost longer, it takes longer to accelerate. Anyway, is there a importer of b18a's so that I can swap it strait over. My car is already wired for the dohc zc, so I assume that I can plug and play, other than the shift linkage and the mounts.

 

well its not too common to see the LS cable swaps at the typical importer.

you might have a good chance on finding one down in chula vista they got tons of junkyards.

and yes its pretty straight forward PM me i live in san diego. if you need help

 

will a b18b bolt to a older cable tranny?

 

just buy a wrecked g2 teg.......thats what I did

 

what did that cost? also will the newer b18b bolt up to a cable tranny

 

I WOULD GET A WRECK TEG THAT WAY U CAN TAKE THE MOTOR AND ROB TONS OF OTHER PARTS OFF IT 2

[I SEE PLENTY WRECK TEGS GO 4 AROND $800 ]

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ZCHF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what did that cost? also will the newer b18b bolt up to a cable tranny</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes a b series cable transmission will bolt up to a newer b series block.

 

and that will force me to go obd1?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ZCHF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what did that cost? also will the newer b18b bolt up to a cable tranny</TD></TR></TABLE>

all b series trannys bolt up to b series blocks, but you have a limited selection on easy tranny swaps because the crx is made for cable trannys. You can get cable LS tranny, or go with a JDM S1, J1, Y1 (optional LSD), YS1 or A1.

 

do all i need to do to go obd1 is get a obd1 dizzy(if i get a b18b it will have it) and a obd1 ecu with a obd1 conversion harness and a 4 wire o2. Is that it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fobtions &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

im thinking the strength of the b16a block is probably the same or stronger.

if u get the b18b swap itll cost alot more to swap in, due to the hydraulic tranny and obd1 electroincs.

the b16a swap will only need a mount kit.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yo how you going to give the guy wrong info like this???

B18a, B18B, B18c, B18c5, B16a, B16b their all the same in the way they bolt onto the CRX. Just have to use the Cable tranny and everyone of them fit.

Get what ever motor you want, just remember your car is OBD0 so get the dizzy and ecu to match plus the injectors and your set.

If you want to go OBD1 then it will cost ya, then you will need to get the OBD1 dizzy and the OBD0-OBD1 ECU jumper.

If your staying stock then just go stick with OBD0, nothing wrong with it, and least expensive.

For the record, I had a B18b in my CRX just had to change the Injectors. Thats it.

Remember, if you have a B-series motor any B-Series tranny will bolt up. Hell even if you want to do the 4 wheel drive you can. Just need to get the right parts but that is a different story.

 

does anyone know where I can get a b18a or b18b in or near san diego for a reasonable price. Ive heard people talking about b18a completes for cheap but i dont know where to look. Ide go with a b18b if the damn trannys werent so much.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX T-Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yo how you going to give the guy wrong info like this???

Get what ever motor you want, just remember your car is OBD0 so get the dizzy and ecu to match plus the injectors and your set.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Injectors don't matter, just know if you're using peak and hold you need a resistor box. If you're using saturated, cut the resistor box out. OBD designation means nothing when it comes to the injectors except for the clips that fit them, but you can always cut and solder clips on the harness.

 

Get a B18B and get a Cable tranny, and I'll trade you for the OBD1 Dizzy for an OBD0 dizzy.

Reason why I am telling you to get an B18b is because it's newer and you will get a motor with a lot less miles then the B18a.

I have OBD0 injectors if you need also.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jester88Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just buy a wrecked g2 teg.......thats what I did </TD></TR></TABLE>

This is one of the best ways to do it. Now the even better way to do it is to buy a wrecked 90-91 teg, take what you need and then buy a b18b with low miles. Convert the b18b to obd0. You can then part the teg out and make some of your money back.

So lets add it up:

Parts car teg: $500 (maybe even less)
Engine: $700 (what I got mine from w/ 83k on it and in good shape)

Now lets say you part out the teg and with a lowball estimate make $250off of it. So now you have everything you need for your swap minus mounts and misc items for $950.

If you buy the b16 its around $1500, then you need many misc parts off of a 90-93 teg like:

axles
shift linkage (if you can weld, if not buy one from hasport)
rear mount bracket
throttle cable
and many little things.

So in a low estimate that comes out to $1700

I didn't count parts that would be necessary for both options. So the b18 is at least $750 cheaper, with my method. It can be done even cheaper by buying a b18a which I have seen go for dirt cheap ($700 for a complete swap).