I recently bought a set of these cams for my engine build. My question is this; what valvespring and retainer setup are you using. I heard that JUN valvesprings have been known to bind up, anyone have any experience with the IV's and JUN valvesprings? Any input will be greatly appreciated.

 

I run Rocket's valvetrain and didnt have any issues. just ask for the optional high lift inners when you order. http://www.m24x.com
You NEED to check clicking clearance with those cams or you will be in for a rude awakening first time you hit vtec.

 

Thanks a lot, what kind of power numbers are you putting down?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93jdmej1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks a lot, what kind of power numbers are you putting down?</TD></TR></TABLE>
hes not running the jun4's..just so you know

 

I didnt run them because I didnt have enough clicking clearance

 

zactly

 

Sp is there anybody actually using these cams out there?

 

Raceline Development might have.

 

Yeah my buddy runs them on bent valves he's to lazy to fix them. I seriously urge you to have them checked in your head while its off the car to make sure you have valve to valve clearance. Dont run them with jun springs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tbone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah my buddy runs them on bent valves he's to lazy to fix them. I seriously urge you to have them checked in your head while its off the car to make sure you have valve to valve clearance. Dont run them with jun springs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that is what i have heard as well. I was planning on using the toda sprins because they are a little stronger. I am just curious about what people are using.

 

let us know how your valve to valve clearance goes mang

 

nobody has any info yet?

 

They are a fairly rare cam.

 

ive heard of quite a few people with them im just wondering if anyone has completed their project.

 

For the Jun 4 cams use Jun valvlesprings and retainers. (and ti retainer should be fine) I have heard jun springs come very close to binding. Howerever I have only heard of it actually hapening when people accidently left out the bottom retainers, and therefor changing the actual valvspring hieght. Jun's valvesprings are progressive springs, so they get stiffer the more they compress. We have used jun 4's with toda valvesprings and Jun Ti retainers. Both work. Both handled 10k rpm's. Personally I would go with jun's. They were made for those cams.Pm me if you got any more questions

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nasi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For the Jun 4 cams use Jun valvlesprings and retainers. (and ti retainer should be fine) I have heard jun springs come very close to binding. Howerever I have only heard of it actually hapening when people accidently left out the bottom retainers, and therefor changing the actual valvspring hieght. Jun's valvesprings are progressive springs, so they get stiffer the more they compress. We have used jun 4's with toda valvesprings and Jun Ti retainers. Both work. Both handled 10k rpm's. Personally I would go with jun's. They were made for those cams.Pm me if you got any more questions</TD></TR></TABLE>

The jun IV's were produced well after the springs were made. How can u say they were made for those cams.

Also, you need to be very careful. I dont think u understand that these cams may not be plug and play. You need to have your valve clearances checked and may need to have the head machined in order to recess the valves.

And on a side note, who the **** keeps deleting my posts I already said this earlier but my post is gone now?? This is happening frequentlhy .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Used2beAb16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The jun IV's were produced well after the springs were made. How can u say they were made for those cams.

Also, you need to be very careful. I dont think u understand that these cams may not be plug and play. You need to have your valve clearances checked and may need to have the head machined in order to recess the valves.

And on a side note, who the **** keeps deleting my posts I already said this earlier but my post is gone now?? This is happening frequentlhy .</TD></TR></TABLE>

There,quoted it so it won't happen this time.

 

[QUOTE=Used2beAb16]

The jun IV's were produced well after the springs were made. How can u say they were made for those cams.

Also, you need to be very careful. I dont think u understand that these cams may not be plug and play. You need to have your valve clearances checked and may need to have the head machined in order to recess the valves.


When you purchase the Jun 4 cams they will say on the side what Jun part nuber to use for these valvesprings. Jun would Tell you if they did not work with their valvesprings. We have used jun 4's with type R valves Jun and/or toda valvesprings. they worked fine without any machining. You should ALWAYS check clearances (clay) when assembling a motor. I guess i assumed that he would be doing this. It depends on compression ratio and the pistons themselves. I think you may have missunderstood what I was saying....The valvsprings were not made spicifically for jun 4's. They were made specifically for Jun cams.

 

Nasi,, if you leave out the lower retainer you will gain bind clearance not lose it. Jun valve springs will not handle jun 4 cams unless they have change something recently.

 

You CAN use Jun springs with jun fours. I am not here to argue, Just tryin to give this guy some help. Youll be fine with jun springs. Contact Jun if you are not to sure. They are alwayls really helpfull. You are right about the binding. That was why he had problems , but it would gain clearance, I stand corrected.

 

At what installed height? You do know that I owned a set of these right(jun 4's)

 

I just read through the jun for maunual from the jun 4 box. It said to use the same part number valvespring as the type 2's and 3's(I read all of them). That is what I would go with. I am not trying to argue with you.I would the Jun 4's would work with Jun's own valvesprings. I could be wrong.Maybe there is somthing I am missing. I heard talk of jun coming out with version 2 valvesprings, but that was word on the street. I never heard it from Jun directly. Since so many people are saying they wont work, I would contact Jun.

 

With amazing valvesprings that RM, Omni, Supertech, Portflow, etc. offer, I just don't know why anyone would want to go with the JUN springs. Judging by their asking prices for their cams, they are probably more expensive than the brands I listed as well. Just IMO.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rochesterricer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With amazing valvesprings that RM, Omni, Supertech, Portflow, etc. offer, I just don't know why anyone would want to go with the JUN springs. Judging by their asking prices for their cams, they are probably more expensive than the brands I listed as well. Just IMO.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Those areall very good valvesprings. I think that somepeople like to use all their parts from one company. It is just peace of mind for somepeople. I am sure the others work verywell. I guess it all comes down to preference...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nasi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Since so many people are saying they wont work, I would contact Jun. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I wouldnt expect an answer I could trust though. I would get it in writing from jun then if you the valve springs bind and it busts something, you can have jun pay for the cost of fixing whatever that broke.

whats even the point of running jun 4's?