Finally my car will be Koni Improved
I got a great deal on a set of yellows (275 shippped used for 10,000 miles) and was wondeing since I use threaded sleeves do you even need the bottom pearch, or is that where the sleeve rests?
Thanks!
Thanks!
If you have Koni-specific sleeves (I assume not because you've been using them before the konis) then you just use the circlip. If you don't, I think you have to use the perch.
Yeah the not the koni sleeves, so I sue the perch no biggie.. I am excited to finally get some real shocks... anyone want set of AGX's with about 50,000 miles of autocrossing and track events on them? hehe
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Solracer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah the not the koni sleeves, so I sue the perch no biggie.. I am excited to finally get some real shocks... anyone want set of AGX's with about 50,000 miles of autocrossing and track events on them? hehe</TD></TR></TABLE>
PM CRX Lee, they (Koni) have some special purches that go on top of the circlip for using C/O's. If you just put the C/O sleeve on top of the circlip it can snap off and you'd be hating life.
PM CRX Lee, they (Koni) have some special purches that go on top of the circlip for using C/O's. If you just put the C/O sleeve on top of the circlip it can snap off and you'd be hating life.
With my Skunk2 Coilovers, i had to buy washer type things to put over the circlips so my sleeve would be held on the shock. Costed me ~$40 through Koni.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sinister6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to me AGX is better then the konis..</TD></TR></TABLE>
To each his own. We'll wave as we go bye.
To each his own. We'll wave as we go bye.
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Well, i have used both.. Both are in the same league IMHO.. the AGXs corners are slightly better but the Koni seems have better shock absorbing.. just my personal point of view tho.
one worst thing is i think Konis built quality is not as good as anyone thinks. mine are sort of bent after a hard drop into a porthole..which i never think that little force can be that "hard" to twist the shock
one worst thing is i think Konis built quality is not as good as anyone thinks. mine are sort of bent after a hard drop into a porthole..which i never think that little force can be that "hard" to twist the shock
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Solracer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah the not the koni sleeves, so I sue the perch no biggie.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You have IM. Don't use just any sleeve on the Koni without mounting it properly or you will likely have trouble. Take a little extra time and do it right for teh long run.
You have IM. Don't use just any sleeve on the Koni without mounting it properly or you will likely have trouble. Take a little extra time and do it right for teh long run.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sinister6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Both are in the same league IMHO..
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If you would like to see some real dyno data comparing several brands, check out: http://www.koni-na.com/presentations/civic/
There are a number of issues but this info shows actually what forces the shocks generate, what the adjustments really do, etc.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you would like to see some real dyno data comparing several brands, check out: http://www.koni-na.com/presentations/civic/
There are a number of issues but this info shows actually what forces the shocks generate, what the adjustments really do, etc.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, i have used both..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Me too.
Matt<---pissed I didn't install Konis a long time ago...
Me too.
Matt<---pissed I didn't install Konis a long time ago...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sinister6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">now that i have changed to Buddy Club RSDamper. Its like from Hell to Heaven..
but yea , honestly Konis are pretty good..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are the Buddy Club's rebuildable (in the US)? I know that some TEIN's are and some aren't.
but yea , honestly Konis are pretty good..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are the Buddy Club's rebuildable (in the US)? I know that some TEIN's are and some aren't.
Well I have the shokcs in my hand, and to my suprise the have 5 adjustments for the perch height? I guess there nuespeed koni's then, is there any way else to tell if they are the nuespeed koni's?
Looks like I answered my own questions, there is an SP3 after the part number in the shock. So I know one difference is the 5 adjustable slots on teh shock, btu is there any differnce in the valving than ots koni?
I found this on the Neuspeed web site " 20mm shorter droop length for use with lowering springs." What does that mean...? I have an Idea, but I would like to here anyone else's thoughts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Solracer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I found this on the Neuspeed web site " 20mm shorter droop length for use with lowering springs." What does that mean...? I have an Idea, but I would like to here anyone else's thoughts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
When you jack the car up and pull the wheels off the ground, the car has less wheel droop and your springs are more likely to hold in position with preload if you hav short free length aftermarket springs. When teh car is on the ground and fucntioning as normal, there is no difference. The valving is exactly the same with Sport. Check to make sure you got all the hardware including the 12mmID top mount sleeves.
When you jack the car up and pull the wheels off the ground, the car has less wheel droop and your springs are more likely to hold in position with preload if you hav short free length aftermarket springs. When teh car is on the ground and fucntioning as normal, there is no difference. The valving is exactly the same with Sport. Check to make sure you got all the hardware including the 12mmID top mount sleeves.
I tired calling you and it said you were out of the office!
I think I have all the hard ware but I am not sure what you mean by the top sleeves. I left my Cell on your voice mail at work so you can call me, I have the shocks sitting right next me.
I think I have all the hard ware but I am not sure what you mean by the top sleeves. I left my Cell on your voice mail at work so you can call me, I have the shocks sitting right next me.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Solracer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I tired calling you and it said you were out of the office!
I think I have all the hard ware but I am not sure what you mean by the top sleeves. I left my Cell on your voice mail at work so you can call me, I have the shocks sitting right next me.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The top sleeves are #12 in this pic. You need the Koni ones because your stock ones have too small of an ID to fit the fatter Koni shafts. You should have 4. Push the stock ones out of the bushings (#6), and push these in. I think you also need another #5 washer too.
I think I have all the hard ware but I am not sure what you mean by the top sleeves. I left my Cell on your voice mail at work so you can call me, I have the shocks sitting right next me.</TD></TR></TABLE>The top sleeves are #12 in this pic. You need the Koni ones because your stock ones have too small of an ID to fit the fatter Koni shafts. You should have 4. Push the stock ones out of the bushings (#6), and push these in. I think you also need another #5 washer too.
Thanks Guys I think I have the parts.... and I can't wait to get them install unfrotunatly I will not not have them on by VIR. However I am going to take this change to swicht my coil overs springs and finally put the stiffer ones out back
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