How To Manage High Compression, Big Revving D16A6?
Just started building my motor. I was at first wanting to build a d series with high compression but also run a large shot of nitrous ontop of that.
BUT, I think I went overboard on compression. If anyone could give me a compression ratio that you think Ill come out with, Id appreciate it. Thanks
Setup:
D16a6 Head:
Milled .040
Port N Polish
3 angle valve job
Ferrerra Retainers
Dual Titanium Valve springs
1mm oversized valves
Delta 272 Cams
Sohc Zc Block:
Arias 11.5:1 compression flat top pistons
Balanced and micropolished crank journals
I havent bought tods because I thik they may solve my problem. But I dont know if any company makes this type if thing.
Obviously I feel I need some forged rods, but if my compression is going to be to high, then is it possible to buy rods that are the tad bit shorter to lower compression? How much shorter would they be? Opinions?
If anyone could give me a compression ratio with a 1 or 3 layer headgasket Id appreciate. Im looking for 150+whp all motor UNLESS I can lower the compression from the crazy ammount right now, to about 11:1 and run a 100 shot from a dry zex kit.
Any help, opinions, loved. Ive already got the zex kit so its no extra cost. Probably going to be buying some fairly large injectors, already have a walbro 255lph pump.
Any advise on how to manage this system ECU wise would be great and also ignition.
Im in no hurry to get this done but the sooner the better.
Also, Im assuming I would be reving this motor and making a lot of pwoer past the stock 6800 rpm that the D16a6 gives, any estimates on how high I would be making power?
BUT, I think I went overboard on compression. If anyone could give me a compression ratio that you think Ill come out with, Id appreciate it. Thanks
Setup:
D16a6 Head:
Milled .040
Port N Polish
3 angle valve job
Ferrerra Retainers
Dual Titanium Valve springs
1mm oversized valves
Delta 272 Cams
Sohc Zc Block:
Arias 11.5:1 compression flat top pistons
Balanced and micropolished crank journals
I havent bought tods because I thik they may solve my problem. But I dont know if any company makes this type if thing.
Obviously I feel I need some forged rods, but if my compression is going to be to high, then is it possible to buy rods that are the tad bit shorter to lower compression? How much shorter would they be? Opinions?
If anyone could give me a compression ratio with a 1 or 3 layer headgasket Id appreciate. Im looking for 150+whp all motor UNLESS I can lower the compression from the crazy ammount right now, to about 11:1 and run a 100 shot from a dry zex kit.
Any help, opinions, loved. Ive already got the zex kit so its no extra cost. Probably going to be buying some fairly large injectors, already have a walbro 255lph pump.
Any advise on how to manage this system ECU wise would be great and also ignition.
Im in no hurry to get this done but the sooner the better.
Also, Im assuming I would be reving this motor and making a lot of pwoer past the stock 6800 rpm that the D16a6 gives, any estimates on how high I would be making power?
well....an A6 wouldn't even be in my top 20 honda engines to make power out of but....
rods won't solve your problems unless you go custom rods and get a slightly shorter rod....which will stick the piston further in the hole and thus lower compression.....but that is not the correct way in doing this....
anyways...
rods won't solve your problems unless you go custom rods and get a slightly shorter rod....which will stick the piston further in the hole and thus lower compression.....but that is not the correct way in doing this....
anyways...
Its called a sleeper. Car is completely stock on the outside.
Pop the hood, stock d16a6 with some bolts ons.
Nitrous bottle will be amazingly hidden
Explain what I can do then
Pop the hood, stock d16a6 with some bolts ons.
Nitrous bottle will be amazingly hidden
Explain what I can do then
you won't be fast with a single cam on spray.....
you'll be quick and take out some bseries guys but you are wanting a miracle!!!!
i had nawz on a single cammer and pissed some off....bottle was hidden....but who cares....you still had to spray to beat em!!
get a gsr or itr swap.....save your money....
you'll be quick and take out some bseries guys but you are wanting a miracle!!!!
i had nawz on a single cammer and pissed some off....bottle was hidden....but who cares....you still had to spray to beat em!!
get a gsr or itr swap.....save your money....
You must suck the ***** at driving then
I had a Sohc zc with bolts ons, ecu and a 75 shot. The only car I lost to was a Wrx, ran a 13.8
Now this car with a build motor with 12:1 + compression + every bolt on available + nitrous + built tranny + slicks
Nawwwww, wont be a quick car
Im not looking for a 10 second car, its daily driven. Wants low low 13's though
I had a Sohc zc with bolts ons, ecu and a 75 shot. The only car I lost to was a Wrx, ran a 13.8
Now this car with a build motor with 12:1 + compression + every bolt on available + nitrous + built tranny + slicks
Nawwwww, wont be a quick car
Im not looking for a 10 second car, its daily driven. Wants low low 13's though
Where r u from? If the only car faster than u is a wrx running 13's thats weaksauce.
I live in hickville, usa and we have 9 and 10 second street cars here.
and most people dont consider a low 13 second car "fast"
I live in hickville, usa and we have 9 and 10 second street cars here.
and most people dont consider a low 13 second car "fast"
I live in a small town. We dont have hick dumbestics all done. My town is a non performance town. Most cars are stock with an intake and a muffler
Bare with me though, Im in high school, work part time, 18 years old and a lot of my money goes to girlfriend and insurance and the rest for mods and buying my little sister a life with the bit left over.
This car is daily driven, and on the bottle I want 12's for sure. To me a 1.6 4 banger in the 12's with under $2000 work, is quick ****
Bare with me though, Im in high school, work part time, 18 years old and a lot of my money goes to girlfriend and insurance and the rest for mods and buying my little sister a life with the bit left over.
This car is daily driven, and on the bottle I want 12's for sure. To me a 1.6 4 banger in the 12's with under $2000 work, is quick ****
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K lets pretend I did get 10:1 pistons, how much would my .040 off teh deck and 1mil oversized valves raise the compression??? Just so I get an idea
you check out exospeed yet? i think wil ran a 13.6 or something with there head package and cam... d16a6 allmotor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Full Race A6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This car is daily driven, and on the bottle I want 12's for sure. To me a 1.6 4 banger in the 12's with under $2000 work, is quick ****</TD></TR></TABLE>
IT WON"T HAPPEN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! guarentted!!!!
IT WON"T HAPPEN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! guarentted!!!!
check out http://www.sohchonda.com man. it CAN be done. this forum is generally no help for the single cam guys. come to think of it...lately it has been all about the hate instead of the help.
--gabriel
--gabriel
i think the best engine to build is a D16a6 with some juice i love it... I will put money on a built D16a6 beatin a B series anyday..... thats what im in the process of building right now but the only diffrence from my setup and your is that im going to be using Pm7 pistons and i want to run 75 shots ... D16a6 OWNS
Alright Ill spell out my budget for you then
ALL internal head parts and manual work to he head including the cam was $435
Pistons - $300
Rods - $300 undecided brand but they will be less than 350
Oem bearings - $65
ARP Headstuds - $90
Crank was done for $85
Light hone and cross hatch = FREE
Assembly = FREE
DSM 440cc injectors = $150
Act clutch and Fidanza 8pound flywheel = $250
Msd Ignition = $125 (can possibly get from free form friend who is sponsored)
TOTAL= 1410
Leaves me $600 for a nice EMS, probably Hondata with nitrous controls
Mind you this $2000 is what I have as of now.I work full time during the summer and pay for nothing but car insurance and gas and keeping the girl happy.
I maybe another $1000 to throw at the system which may lead to lots of tuning, fuel cell, lexan windows and fiberglass rear hatch, possible LSD. Not to mention birthday money and christmas money and a graduation gift.
It can and will be done
ALL internal head parts and manual work to he head including the cam was $435
Pistons - $300
Rods - $300 undecided brand but they will be less than 350
Oem bearings - $65
ARP Headstuds - $90
Crank was done for $85
Light hone and cross hatch = FREE
Assembly = FREE
DSM 440cc injectors = $150
Act clutch and Fidanza 8pound flywheel = $250
Msd Ignition = $125 (can possibly get from free form friend who is sponsored)
TOTAL= 1410
Leaves me $600 for a nice EMS, probably Hondata with nitrous controls
Mind you this $2000 is what I have as of now.I work full time during the summer and pay for nothing but car insurance and gas and keeping the girl happy.
I maybe another $1000 to throw at the system which may lead to lots of tuning, fuel cell, lexan windows and fiberglass rear hatch, possible LSD. Not to mention birthday money and christmas money and a graduation gift.
It can and will be done
12's on an internally stock single cam motor, 60 shot and some slicks
DAM!
Im almost positive Im going to spray now but I dont know how Im going to manage it. I will be using a dry shot, does Hondata support Zex dry shots? Im talking the Hondata with nitrous controls
Im also still looking for help on an estimation of how I could lower my compression. Or could give me a good educated guess on what it would be with the stock head gasket or a massive thick one. How think do they go?
Also about the lower octane, the highest I can get is 91, arent there addidtives that you can buy for fairly cheap that raise the ron count (dunno if I say that right) drastically.
Thanks
DAM!
Im almost positive Im going to spray now but I dont know how Im going to manage it. I will be using a dry shot, does Hondata support Zex dry shots? Im talking the Hondata with nitrous controls
Im also still looking for help on an estimation of how I could lower my compression. Or could give me a good educated guess on what it would be with the stock head gasket or a massive thick one. How think do they go?
Also about the lower octane, the highest I can get is 91, arent there addidtives that you can buy for fairly cheap that raise the ron count (dunno if I say that right) drastically.
Thanks
Do yourself a favor and check out the these boards:
http://www.d-series.org/
http://sohchonda.com/ipw-web/bulletin/bb/index.php
The single cam gets no love on H-T. The B series snobs have it on lock!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Full Race A6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alright Ill spell out my budget for you then
ALL internal head parts and manual work to he head including the cam was $435
Pistons - $300
Rods - $300 undecided brand but they will be less than 350
Oem bearings - $65
ARP Headstuds - $90
Crank was done for $85
Light hone and cross hatch = FREE
Assembly = FREE
DSM 440cc injectors = $150
Act clutch and Fidanza 8pound flywheel = $250
Msd Ignition = $125 (can possibly get from free form friend who is sponsored)
TOTAL= 1410
Leaves me $600 for a nice EMS, probably Hondata with nitrous controls
Mind you this $2000 is what I have as of now.I work full time during the summer and pay for nothing but car insurance and gas and keeping the girl happy.
I maybe another $1000 to throw at the system which may lead to lots of tuning, fuel cell, lexan windows and fiberglass rear hatch, possible LSD. Not to mention birthday money and christmas money and a graduation gift.
It can and will be done</TD></TR></TABLE>
You forgot a minor requirement for 12's on your setup.
Its $1000 for some slicks and wheels
ALL internal head parts and manual work to he head including the cam was $435
Pistons - $300
Rods - $300 undecided brand but they will be less than 350
Oem bearings - $65
ARP Headstuds - $90
Crank was done for $85
Light hone and cross hatch = FREE
Assembly = FREE
DSM 440cc injectors = $150
Act clutch and Fidanza 8pound flywheel = $250
Msd Ignition = $125 (can possibly get from free form friend who is sponsored)
TOTAL= 1410
Leaves me $600 for a nice EMS, probably Hondata with nitrous controls
Mind you this $2000 is what I have as of now.I work full time during the summer and pay for nothing but car insurance and gas and keeping the girl happy.
I maybe another $1000 to throw at the system which may lead to lots of tuning, fuel cell, lexan windows and fiberglass rear hatch, possible LSD. Not to mention birthday money and christmas money and a graduation gift.
It can and will be done</TD></TR></TABLE>
You forgot a minor requirement for 12's on your setup.
Its $1000 for some slicks and wheels
Already have a spare set of slipstreams and can get a set of 15inch 22inch wide slicks for $50 a piece.
And Im sure a friend owes me some cash so pretend thats free
And Im sure a friend owes me some cash so pretend thats free
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by creechrr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The single cam gets no love on H-T. The B series snobs have it on lock!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have a b18 in my hatch and i give props to anyone who builds what they like not what the mags say build
non v-tec fo life
The single cam gets no love on H-T. The B series snobs have it on lock!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have a b18 in my hatch and i give props to anyone who builds what they like not what the mags say build
non v-tec fo life
nice build! keep us informed/updated on how it does. I'm building a d15b7(block) p29(same as pm7)'s not sure on cam and head work yet but it'll be either a a6 or b7 head (since they're the same) what cam should i go with to hit 135 reliably and 150 on race gas???
Kent
Kent
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