h and r race springs why does my car sit like this
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From: kzoo, small town mi, usa

The car sits level, but there is more wheel gap in the front than in the rear. I havent driven the car at all yet, do they need to settle, or do i have to cut them a bit
Or is it just me being pickey.
The front springs are a little higher so the front of your car has more travel during hard cornering.
Im pretty sure your front springs are progressive (spring rate increases as more force is applied) and your rear springs are linear (one constant spring rate). Usually this means that the front springs will ride a little higher so that there is a slight rate of travel due to the weight carried by the front of your car (engine).
-Jake
Im pretty sure your front springs are progressive (spring rate increases as more force is applied) and your rear springs are linear (one constant spring rate). Usually this means that the front springs will ride a little higher so that there is a slight rate of travel due to the weight carried by the front of your car (engine).
-Jake
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From: kzoo, small town mi, usa


See i thought so too about the breaking in. they are in right i made sure of it. I havent driven the car at all yet, due to waiting for my new tranny. But in these pics it doesnt look as bad. So maybe im just perenoid. I was just wondering if anybody else has had this problem. I figured there was function behind it, so yah. I guess i was just worried about it. But now that i look at it, it doesnt look that bad so....
Yah everything is brand new, no used parts.
my car looks the same, my front passenger wheel has more of a gap, the back passenger is lower than the rest, and the two drivers sides look about even. I'm sure I installed them right.
I'm thinking it's the stock shocks that I used.
I'm thinking it's the stock shocks that I used.
looks good
it sits fine when some miles on them the car will come down alil bit. if they were wrong say the back spring in the front the car would have a crazy ganger lean to the front and the *** end would be sky high
it sits fine when some miles on them the car will come down alil bit. if they were wrong say the back spring in the front the car would have a crazy ganger lean to the front and the *** end would be sky high
you shouldnt expect springs to "settle". cheap springs do, but i wouldnt ever buy springs and think its a good thing to wait for them to "settle".
the problem is just that you need to reset your bushings. as written specifically in the helms manual, youre supposed to loosen all the control arm bolts and then torque em to spec after youve put weight on the car. its not quite easy to do with the wheels on, so when the car is on 4 jack stands, then just jack up one corner of the suspension arm with the wheel off until it just lifts off the jack stand and then tighten it all down. this is the proper procedure for working on your suspension. failure to do so will ruin your bushings (unless theyre bad already from 15 years of use, which should be expected). oem bushings are designed to have the rubber twist with the rotation, its like its own rotational spring. that spring needs to be reset, or its constantly being stretched, and because of age, each of the bushings have a different effective "spring rate" and will resist the amount of rotation differently. the probably reason ppl believe their ride height to "settle" after some time of use is because they end up tearing the bushings so that they provide no torsional resistance and are back to zero, but are then completely ruined.
so do this, but also check to see if you installed everything the same, in terms of making sure the springs are seated in the rubber gasket of the top hat and on the bottom perch of the shock and what not.
i do not believe any off the shelf spring kit would purposely mismatch ride heights for the purpose of "handling". the more direct method is to change the actual spring rate to affect handling....
the problem is just that you need to reset your bushings. as written specifically in the helms manual, youre supposed to loosen all the control arm bolts and then torque em to spec after youve put weight on the car. its not quite easy to do with the wheels on, so when the car is on 4 jack stands, then just jack up one corner of the suspension arm with the wheel off until it just lifts off the jack stand and then tighten it all down. this is the proper procedure for working on your suspension. failure to do so will ruin your bushings (unless theyre bad already from 15 years of use, which should be expected). oem bushings are designed to have the rubber twist with the rotation, its like its own rotational spring. that spring needs to be reset, or its constantly being stretched, and because of age, each of the bushings have a different effective "spring rate" and will resist the amount of rotation differently. the probably reason ppl believe their ride height to "settle" after some time of use is because they end up tearing the bushings so that they provide no torsional resistance and are back to zero, but are then completely ruined.
so do this, but also check to see if you installed everything the same, in terms of making sure the springs are seated in the rubber gasket of the top hat and on the bottom perch of the shock and what not.
i do not believe any off the shelf spring kit would purposely mismatch ride heights for the purpose of "handling". the more direct method is to change the actual spring rate to affect handling....
My car when I had H&R race springs on oem shocks. Front looks higher but keep in mind the front tires were bald to the bone.



Modified by t0eKnEe at 2:53 AM 7/25/2004

Modified by t0eKnEe at 2:53 AM 7/25/2004
no way in hell are those race springs. i have the sports and my car has about a finger gap.
my friend has h & R race on his DA and when we put them in they was no gap at all. (brand new springs) since then they have sagged a tad
my friend has h & R race on his DA and when we put them in they was no gap at all. (brand new springs) since then they have sagged a tad
eibachs seem to do that as well and those are very good springs, over the years i have always just ended up cutting a coil or two in the front to even it up. I honestly dont think that settling will even that out.
Tyson, good wirte-up
my problem lies in my rear coilovers. i can crush the rear suspension and my car sits higher in the back (a 2-3 inch wheel gap) while my front has almost no wheel gap. i hear something about flipping a bushing over? i dunno im not really sure what to do.
my problem lies in my rear coilovers. i can crush the rear suspension and my car sits higher in the back (a 2-3 inch wheel gap) while my front has almost no wheel gap. i hear something about flipping a bushing over? i dunno im not really sure what to do.
Is the overall ride height even? That's how the springs are supposed to be right? With even ride height all around? The wheel gap between the fender and the wheel isn't a good measure for actual ride height since the front fender area is usually larger due to the fact that the wheel needs space to turn left/right etc. without hitting the fender during suspension travel. It looks like your ride height is even, but I can't really tell. you'll have to measure it from the frame
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From: kzoo, small town mi, usa
Yah the car all the way around when you look at the body is even. I guess im still stuck in my old show car mode ways with my coilovers. Im dumb and need to just realize that function is key here.



