When motor builds go bad :(
Well, I got my all motor project running and she started smoking.
Pull the head and #1 has oil everywhere. Take my head to my head shop and they vacuum test, check all the valve stem seals (which I was HOPING was the case) and it checks out fine.
So, I pull out #1 piston and what do we find. The machine shop that pressed on the wrist pin somehow screwed up because the wrist pin backed itself off and started moving towards the sleeves. It backed out and went into the #1 sleeve and put two nice THICK strips down the sleeves
Engine compression tested 220, 240, 240, 240 from 1-4
was a
GSR BOTTOM
CTR 25 over pistons, honda rings (that I had pay a lil extra for since it's on nationbackorder)
LS crank, LS rods machined
stage 3 ported B16 head
Wicked cams
portflow spring/retainer with ITR outters
S2 intake manifold
JG 68mm TB
heatshieldgasket
blah blah
All down the drain
Pull the head and #1 has oil everywhere. Take my head to my head shop and they vacuum test, check all the valve stem seals (which I was HOPING was the case) and it checks out fine.
So, I pull out #1 piston and what do we find. The machine shop that pressed on the wrist pin somehow screwed up because the wrist pin backed itself off and started moving towards the sleeves. It backed out and went into the #1 sleeve and put two nice THICK strips down the sleeves

Engine compression tested 220, 240, 240, 240 from 1-4
was a
GSR BOTTOM
CTR 25 over pistons, honda rings (that I had pay a lil extra for since it's on nationbackorder)
LS crank, LS rods machined
stage 3 ported B16 head
Wicked cams
portflow spring/retainer with ITR outters
S2 intake manifold
JG 68mm TB
heatshieldgasket
blah blah
All down the drain

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by michaelOlson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn that sucks. Don't go back to that machine shop.</TD></TR></TABLE>
very true and I feel u bro
I had to rebuild mine twice already cuz of stupid things like that
and this shall be my third time and last
after this one
u shall see all that stuff u have or had in urs up for sale
very true and I feel u bro
I had to rebuild mine twice already cuz of stupid things like that
and this shall be my third time and last
after this one
u shall see all that stuff u have or had in urs up for sale
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As for torching the pins on. It looks like they WERE torched on. That's the bad part... I think they just let it sink down too far and it worked itself off.
Anywho. I went with a stock GSR bottom, 28k miles and my ported head with S2 S2 cams. She doesn't feel bad (thank god for the no break in needed on a "used" engine) but not as powerful putting around town compared to the CTR piston/ls cranked GSR
The machine shop is wanting to fix the problem, so as long as they fix it right, I won't be mad at them. I know we're all human and make mistakes.
-Chuong
Anywho. I went with a stock GSR bottom, 28k miles and my ported head with S2 S2 cams. She doesn't feel bad (thank god for the no break in needed on a "used" engine) but not as powerful putting around town compared to the CTR piston/ls cranked GSR

The machine shop is wanting to fix the problem, so as long as they fix it right, I won't be mad at them. I know we're all human and make mistakes.
-Chuong
2 engines that i built for the race car....
4 out of the 8 wrist pins backed out from the machine shop heating the rod to RED HOT!!!!
we no longer use that machine shop!!
4 out of the 8 wrist pins backed out from the machine shop heating the rod to RED HOT!!!!
we no longer use that machine shop!!
getting them just hot enough is the key.
not hot enough, the pin sticks as you are sticking it in the rod. SCREWED.
too hot, the pin comes out later. SCREWED.
just have someone do it who has done it alot.
you guys can send them to me, and i can hang them for you if you need it.
not hot enough, the pin sticks as you are sticking it in the rod. SCREWED.
too hot, the pin comes out later. SCREWED.
just have someone do it who has done it alot.
you guys can send them to me, and i can hang them for you if you need it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TECH43 RACING INC. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">getting them just hot enough is the key.
not hot enough, the pin sticks as you are sticking it in the rod. SCREWED.
too hot, the pin comes out later. SCREWED.
just have someone do it who has done it alot.
you guys can send them to me, and i can hang them for you if you need it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok, guys I have a "stupid" question....... I have read several different builder's proceedures for installing block guards. They would freeze the guard over-night to press it in the next day. So, instead of risking overheating the rod ends..... Why cant you freeze the pins to shrink them? I am not an engine builder, just interested to see if there is a safer way.
not hot enough, the pin sticks as you are sticking it in the rod. SCREWED.
too hot, the pin comes out later. SCREWED.
just have someone do it who has done it alot.
you guys can send them to me, and i can hang them for you if you need it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok, guys I have a "stupid" question....... I have read several different builder's proceedures for installing block guards. They would freeze the guard over-night to press it in the next day. So, instead of risking overheating the rod ends..... Why cant you freeze the pins to shrink them? I am not an engine builder, just interested to see if there is a safer way.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wraith_G2IC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ok, guys I have a "stupid" question....... I have read several different builder's proceedures for installing block guards. They would freeze the guard over-night to press it in the next day. So, instead of risking overheating the rod ends..... Why cant you freeze the pins to shrink them? I am not an engine builder, just interested to see if there is a safer way.</TD></TR></TABLE>
freezing will not get it small enough to fit. block guards dont have crush. pins do.
if you heat them right, no problems. i have had ZERO come out.
Ok, guys I have a "stupid" question....... I have read several different builder's proceedures for installing block guards. They would freeze the guard over-night to press it in the next day. So, instead of risking overheating the rod ends..... Why cant you freeze the pins to shrink them? I am not an engine builder, just interested to see if there is a safer way.</TD></TR></TABLE>
freezing will not get it small enough to fit. block guards dont have crush. pins do.
if you heat them right, no problems. i have had ZERO come out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TECH43 RACING INC. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">freezing will not get it small enough to fit. block guards dont have crush. pins do.
if you heat them right, no problems. i have had ZERO come out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am going to have to pretend like I know what "crush" is, but I am guessing that the pin dia is a hair larger than the rod end. So when the rod end cools it will "crush" the pin. ???
Is there a Honda recommended temp to heat them to, or an amount of time at a certain temp that will enlarge the hole just enough so that it won't be FUBAR'ed. And if this is the way they were assembled at the factory, then is it a bad thing to re-use stock rods? Sorry for the questions, I don't mean to ***** someones post, but it sounds like what ever the orig shop did to his rods was a bad thing. So is that rod with the pin that backed out junk now? (assuming it was "overheated")
if you heat them right, no problems. i have had ZERO come out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am going to have to pretend like I know what "crush" is, but I am guessing that the pin dia is a hair larger than the rod end. So when the rod end cools it will "crush" the pin. ???
Is there a Honda recommended temp to heat them to, or an amount of time at a certain temp that will enlarge the hole just enough so that it won't be FUBAR'ed. And if this is the way they were assembled at the factory, then is it a bad thing to re-use stock rods? Sorry for the questions, I don't mean to ***** someones post, but it sounds like what ever the orig shop did to his rods was a bad thing. So is that rod with the pin that backed out junk now? (assuming it was "overheated")
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wraith_G2IC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I am going to have to pretend like I know what "crush" is, but I am guessing that the pin dia is a hair larger than the rod end. So when the rod end cools it will "crush" the pin. ???
</TD></TR></TABLE>
exactly.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wraith_G2IC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Is there a Honda recommended temp to heat them to, or an amount of time at a certain temp that will enlarge the hole just enough so that it won't be FUBAR'ed. And if this is the way they were assembled at the factory, then is it a bad thing to re-use stock rods? Sorry for the questions, I don't mean to ***** someones post, but it sounds like what ever the orig shop did to his rods was a bad thing. So is that rod with the pin that backed out junk now? (assuming it was "overheated")</TD></TR></TABLE>
i dont know the temp, or the time, i just know how it looks, or i do it by feel i guess. its not bad to reuse stock rods. the shop simply heated it too much.
look at it this way, how many posts do you see where this happens to guys?
I am going to have to pretend like I know what "crush" is, but I am guessing that the pin dia is a hair larger than the rod end. So when the rod end cools it will "crush" the pin. ???
</TD></TR></TABLE>
exactly.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wraith_G2IC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Is there a Honda recommended temp to heat them to, or an amount of time at a certain temp that will enlarge the hole just enough so that it won't be FUBAR'ed. And if this is the way they were assembled at the factory, then is it a bad thing to re-use stock rods? Sorry for the questions, I don't mean to ***** someones post, but it sounds like what ever the orig shop did to his rods was a bad thing. So is that rod with the pin that backed out junk now? (assuming it was "overheated")</TD></TR></TABLE>
i dont know the temp, or the time, i just know how it looks, or i do it by feel i guess. its not bad to reuse stock rods. the shop simply heated it too much.
look at it this way, how many posts do you see where this happens to guys?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OTT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Honda uses some sort of piston pin driver tool to pres the pin i, but I would presume thi method cannot be used on aluminium pistons??</TD></TR></TABLE>
huh? honda pistons are aluminum.
huh? honda pistons are aluminum.
I talked to the machine shop today. He said the rods were heated to 900 degrees in an oven "preset to 900 degrees"
I want to post pictures but it looks like we-todd-did is down
Anyone want to host 3 images that are like 61, 55, and 42 kb for me?
-Chuong
Angelfire pictures
http://www.angelfire.com/ks2/D...l.jpg
http://www.angelfire.com/ks2/D...n.jpg
http://www.angelfire.com/ks2/D...t.jpg
(Which means you have to do the right click, properties, copy,paste?)
And on the integra side shot, that's not a dent. Something reflecting back on the building....
Modified by dester223 at 9:44 PM 7/26/2004
Modified by dester223 at 9:48 PM 7/26/2004
I want to post pictures but it looks like we-todd-did is down
Anyone want to host 3 images that are like 61, 55, and 42 kb for me?
-Chuong
Angelfire pictures
http://www.angelfire.com/ks2/D...l.jpg
http://www.angelfire.com/ks2/D...n.jpg
http://www.angelfire.com/ks2/D...t.jpg
(Which means you have to do the right click, properties, copy,paste?)
And on the integra side shot, that's not a dent. Something reflecting back on the building....
Modified by dester223 at 9:44 PM 7/26/2004
Modified by dester223 at 9:48 PM 7/26/2004
The machine shop wants to resleeve the cylinder
He claims the piston and the rings will be "fine"
It looks like a new LS rod and wrist pin are needed.
I personally am going to get a new piston and ring set with wrist pin.
He claims the piston and the rings will be "fine"
It looks like a new LS rod and wrist pin are needed.
I personally am going to get a new piston and ring set with wrist pin.



