iI just wanted to get some ideas of how you guys have mounted your sub boxes. I just put one 12" in my girlfriends 2000 accord, and need to hold it down in the trunk

 

L brackets will work or bungee(sp?) cords if you have a place to hook them onto.

 

i just used 4 L brackets on the back of the box so you couldnt see them. worked out PERFECTLY. doesnt move an inch... i also put down a thicker false floor so it could actually support the weight of the box and sub.

 

i would just mount it to the false floor, but what happens when you get a flat and have to use your spare tire?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicmark &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">iI just wanted to get some ideas of how you guys have mounted your sub boxes. I just put one 12" in my girlfriends 2000 accord, and need to hold it down in the trunk</TD></TR></TABLE> The better the mount[ more solid] the better the bass, and as civicmark said you will have to get to your spare. 94

 

my flase floor has a hinge on it so i can flip it open and get to the spare....but i have amps where the spare is suppose to be so hell... i jus call for free towing, or have a spare delived to me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FatJoe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my flase floor has a hinge on it so i can flip it open and get to the spare....but i have amps where the spare is suppose to be so hell... i jus call for free towing, or have a spare delived to me </TD></TR></TABLE> Whatever works. 94

 

pull out the sub, screw box to the floor through the inside of the box, remount sub.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by INTEGRAJAI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pull out the sub, screw box to the floor through the inside of the box, remount sub.</TD></TR></TABLE> If you don't need to move the box to get the spare out ,it is a good way to mount the box solid, that said. I would use nuts bolts and washers, for a few reasons.

1- Box is heavy,sheetmetal floorpan is thin.

2- Bolts with washers [ big washers] will spread the "grip" over larger area.

3- A little silicone, tar, or undercoating between washers and floorpan [inside and outside] will stop the rusting problem that will start as soon as you drill that hole in the floorpan.

4- You will get a much tighter mount with bolts then with screws.[ and the more solid the mount the better the bass]

94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The better the mount[ more solid] the better the bass, and as civicmark said you will have to get to your spare. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

How is that?

I race my car, so I needed a way to conveniently remove the enclosure whenever it needed to come out. I used two pairs of long aluminum L channels, one pair on the false floor (upgraded to pegboard since it's light yet strong enough to support the load, the enclosure has three 10's). The other pair of channels are on the bottom of the enclosure and mate to the ones on the floor. I drilled two holes in the fronts and back of those rails so I could "lock" everything in place with bolts or clips. Mine also hinges for easy access below.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PupaScoopa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

How is that?

I race my car, so I needed a way to conveniently remove the enclosure whenever it needed to come out. I used two pairs of long aluminum L channels, one pair on the false floor (upgraded to pegboard since it's light yet strong enough to support the load, the enclosure has three 10's). The other pair of channels are on the bottom of the enclosure and mate to the ones on the floor. I drilled two holes in the fronts and back of those rails so I could "lock" everything in place with bolts or clips. Mine also hinges for easy access below.</TD></TR></TABLE> There are 4 main rules for mounting any speaker in a car.

1- mount speaker to flat serface

2- have airtight seal between front of speaker and back of speaker for at least the diameter of the of the speaker from the outside edge of the cone

3- mass, the more mass the speaker is mounted to the better

4- a speaker mounted to wood will sound better then on any other material


The lower the frequency responce of the speaker the more the rules apply.

The mass rule applies because, for every action there is an opposite and equal reaction, power from the amp drives the speaker cone forward, the reaction is that everything,other then the cone, will be driven back , and any power wasted on the reaction , is, well power wasted. 94

 

Dont screw into your box, especially if it is sealed. The less holes the better.

 

I just bolted mine to the seat with 4 brackets, just make sure you don't drill all the way through.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by debogsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dont screw into your box, especially if it is sealed. The less holes the better.</TD></TR></TABLE> Any hole in any box, unless its a tuned port, is n/g. 94