Need some answers on wheel fitment
I'm looking into a set of 17 x 7.5 Wheels. They come in three different offsets 35, 44, and 48. Which one of these would be the best fit for our cars. Any input is greatly appreciated
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Captain Commando »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'd say 35mm and you'd have the least chance of rubbing lock to lock, but probably have to roll some fenders.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Damn, I def. don't wanna ghetto rig my car to fit some wheels
Damn, I def. don't wanna ghetto rig my car to fit some wheels
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Captain Commando »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ghetto rig?
i know lots of people who roll fenders.
then again, not everyone wants to fit 17x7.5 wheels on a 4 cylinder car to look fast.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Maybe you didn't get the memo, our cars aren't fast.
i know lots of people who roll fenders.
then again, not everyone wants to fit 17x7.5 wheels on a 4 cylinder car to look fast.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Maybe you didn't get the memo, our cars aren't fast.
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I'd probably say 44 if you don't want to roll the fenders. I have 15x7.5" on the front and 7" on the back with a 40 ET with no problems, but i noticed that Enkei says the 7.5" on the rear with ET40 would fit, but likely require fender rolling. So 35 would be even more so. If these are mostly for the street i don't think the 35 would be good. I think you'll notice a much greater amount of torque steer and a tendency for the car to want to follow grooves and ruts in the road. I know i noticed a big difference on the street with mine compared to stock wheels.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RGoose18 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm looking into a set of 17 x 7.5 Wheels. They come in three different offsets 35, 44, and 48. Which one of these would be the best fit for our cars. Any input is greatly appreciated</TD></TR></TABLE>
It is probably going to come down to what tyres and what tyre size you want to use.
7.5" wheel is really quite wide for an ITR. Unless you go with +35, you are probably going to rub on the inside at the rear and on the front at full lock.
Even at +35, you might have to roll the rear fenders to fit a good sized tyre.
I have a couple of sets of 15x7 +38's that I use on the track. With RA1 205-50-15, we had to gently roll the rear. Not enough to notice, but it keeps the car from coming down on the springs in Hogpen and throwing tyre smoke.
You can also mitigate any fitment issues by staying at OEM ride height when you install a different suspension.
15x7 +38 seems to me to be an ideal wheel size for the ITR in performance applications. There is a wealth of good tyres available for that size wheel.
It is probably going to come down to what tyres and what tyre size you want to use.
7.5" wheel is really quite wide for an ITR. Unless you go with +35, you are probably going to rub on the inside at the rear and on the front at full lock.
Even at +35, you might have to roll the rear fenders to fit a good sized tyre.
I have a couple of sets of 15x7 +38's that I use on the track. With RA1 205-50-15, we had to gently roll the rear. Not enough to notice, but it keeps the car from coming down on the springs in Hogpen and throwing tyre smoke.
You can also mitigate any fitment issues by staying at OEM ride height when you install a different suspension.

15x7 +38 seems to me to be an ideal wheel size for the ITR in performance applications. There is a wealth of good tyres available for that size wheel.
Thanks George, although I still have confilcting answers, 35 or 44 offset? These wheels are def. just for street use, I'll have the stockers for light auto-x. I'm thinking of going 215/40 or 35/R17 for tires
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RGoose18 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks George, although I still have confilcting answers, 35 or 44 offset... I'm thinking of going 215/40 or 35/R17 for tires</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sorry. It looks like we forgot about your thread.
Since I had to roll one fender with +38 and 205's, I'm afraid that with +35 and 215's you will probably have to roll both fenders.
I wish I had a definitive answer for you. I only know what worked for me.
My Spoon 16x7 wheels are +45, and I use 215 Azenis on them w/no problems at all.
I hope some of that helps.
Sorry. It looks like we forgot about your thread.
Since I had to roll one fender with +38 and 205's, I'm afraid that with +35 and 215's you will probably have to roll both fenders.
I wish I had a definitive answer for you. I only know what worked for me.
My Spoon 16x7 wheels are +45, and I use 215 Azenis on them w/no problems at all.

I hope some of that helps.
are you guys talking about rolling the fender-liners????
Chris - who is not sure what rolling the actual fender would do... besides mess it all up.
Chris - who is not sure what rolling the actual fender would do... besides mess it all up.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Renegade »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Will 225 victoracers fit on the 7 inch wheel? </TD></TR></TABLE>
15, 16 and 17" sizes will all fit on 7" wide wheels.
However, if you are looking at the 225-50-15 size, a lot of people would argue that you're better off with 205-50-15.
It's arguable whether the extra width makes up for the taller gearing.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">or will I really have to worry about roll?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You actually want Victoracers to roll at least to the point of the little triangle they put on the sidewall. It's there to make sure they are rolling enough to provide maximum grip.
If you come in after a session and you haven't touched the tip of the triangle, you know to drop the pressures a little bit.
15, 16 and 17" sizes will all fit on 7" wide wheels.
However, if you are looking at the 225-50-15 size, a lot of people would argue that you're better off with 205-50-15.
It's arguable whether the extra width makes up for the taller gearing. <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">or will I really have to worry about roll?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You actually want Victoracers to roll at least to the point of the little triangle they put on the sidewall. It's there to make sure they are rolling enough to provide maximum grip.
If you come in after a session and you haven't touched the tip of the triangle, you know to drop the pressures a little bit.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris N »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you guys talking about rolling the fender-liners????
Chris - who is not sure what rolling the actual fender would do... besides mess it all up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
We're talking about the rear fenders, which don't have liners.
What you are rolling is the extended metal lip that holds the plastic piece, which piece is entirely unnecessary except perhaps to keep careless people from cutting their fingers.
The idea is to roll this extended metal shelf up against the inside of the fender so that a +38 or +35 wheel with good rubber on it won't hit that lip. Most of us have had to do this on the driver's side with R comps, even w/a good suspension.
Before Bryan did this, my ITR was known for throwing some rather impressive rubber smoke off the left rear in Hogpen.
If you do this carefully, you will just bend the lip w/out flaring the fender, and you will be in compliance with most CCR as far as flares are concerned. Completely invisible and in compliance in every case I'm aware of.
Chris - who is not sure what rolling the actual fender would do... besides mess it all up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
We're talking about the rear fenders, which don't have liners.
What you are rolling is the extended metal lip that holds the plastic piece, which piece is entirely unnecessary except perhaps to keep careless people from cutting their fingers.
The idea is to roll this extended metal shelf up against the inside of the fender so that a +38 or +35 wheel with good rubber on it won't hit that lip. Most of us have had to do this on the driver's side with R comps, even w/a good suspension.
Before Bryan did this, my ITR was known for throwing some rather impressive rubber smoke off the left rear in Hogpen.
If you do this carefully, you will just bend the lip w/out flaring the fender, and you will be in compliance with most CCR as far as flares are concerned. Completely invisible and in compliance in every case I'm aware of.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris N »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cool. Had no idea about that at all.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's an Old Guard kind of thing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>It's an Old Guard kind of thing.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's an Old Guard kind of thing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Get the gherkins!
</TD></TR></TABLE>Get the gherkins!
Keep in mind that there are a whole lot of factors that, combined, determine the possibility of rubbing. One of them, as George noted, is tire size. For purposes of rubbing, the main parameters for tire size are width and outer diameter (leaving aside the possibility of variation within the same nominal tire size). The width is pretty much going to correspond to the treadwidth (205, 215, 225, etc). Just to note the outer diameter of the tire sizes that have been mentioned here, in inches:
195/55-15 (stock): 23.44
205/50-15: 23.07
225/50-15: 23.86
215/40-17: 23.77
215/35-17: 22.93
So, for example, if you are comparing a 215/40-17 with George's and Ed's 205/50-15, you can see that it is 10 mm wider AND 0.7 inches greater in diameter. So even if George's and Ed's size doesn't rub, the wider/larger diameter size might. Or, it might not. You'll have to try it to know for sure.
195/55-15 (stock): 23.44
205/50-15: 23.07
225/50-15: 23.86
215/40-17: 23.77
215/35-17: 22.93
So, for example, if you are comparing a 215/40-17 with George's and Ed's 205/50-15, you can see that it is 10 mm wider AND 0.7 inches greater in diameter. So even if George's and Ed's size doesn't rub, the wider/larger diameter size might. Or, it might not. You'll have to try it to know for sure.
Just to add my two cents...
I'm running 17x7.5 TE37's at +40 with 215/40... kinda smack dab between 35 and 44... I would imagine you aren't at stock height (I'm about 1 to 1.25 inches lower than stock).
My rear fenders are slightly rolled and my front fender liners were very cooperative and don't rub, atleast until after the expo where I inexplicably tore a hole in part of the front right splash guard and in my haste to get back on the track and not miss my next run, I just zip tied it securely to the bumper cover. The strange thing is that I went 1 and a half maybe two wheels off on the drivers side in an earlier session, so I don't know how I damaged the passenger side splash guard...
Anyhow I think it is too tight now and I rub at full lock only on that passenger side. So that may give you an idea of how close it is, there is probably a centimetre or maybe a little more at full lock for it not to rub while driving. Maybe I'll get off my butt and fix that tonight...
I'm running 17x7.5 TE37's at +40 with 215/40... kinda smack dab between 35 and 44... I would imagine you aren't at stock height (I'm about 1 to 1.25 inches lower than stock).
My rear fenders are slightly rolled and my front fender liners were very cooperative and don't rub, atleast until after the expo where I inexplicably tore a hole in part of the front right splash guard and in my haste to get back on the track and not miss my next run, I just zip tied it securely to the bumper cover. The strange thing is that I went 1 and a half maybe two wheels off on the drivers side in an earlier session, so I don't know how I damaged the passenger side splash guard...
Anyhow I think it is too tight now and I rub at full lock only on that passenger side. So that may give you an idea of how close it is, there is probably a centimetre or maybe a little more at full lock for it not to rub while driving. Maybe I'll get off my butt and fix that tonight...
44
if you have a 7.5" wide weel then you need the face to be as close as possible to the outer lip of the rim...so most of the width of the wheel will be on the inside of the wheel well
if you have a 7.5" wide weel then you need the face to be as close as possible to the outer lip of the rim...so most of the width of the wheel will be on the inside of the wheel well


