Towing my low Civic
This may not be the right forum for this, but I figure you guys would know best. Mods move this if need be.
I have a Civic that is dropped about 2" and I'm having trouble loading it onto my flatbed trailer. I just started, so maybe this will all come together after I load it a few times. Anyway, the ramps I have are too steep, and for it to work the ramps would have to be about 8' long (my current ones are 4'). I used some 2x4's, oil change ramps and the ramps that came with the trailer to load it last time, and it was a crazy pain in the butt. I'm wondering if any of you have any tricks to avoid this. I know parking against a hill can help, but I'm really talking about on a flat surface. Or do I just need to accept it and borrow a welder and make longer ramps?
I have a Civic that is dropped about 2" and I'm having trouble loading it onto my flatbed trailer. I just started, so maybe this will all come together after I load it a few times. Anyway, the ramps I have are too steep, and for it to work the ramps would have to be about 8' long (my current ones are 4'). I used some 2x4's, oil change ramps and the ramps that came with the trailer to load it last time, and it was a crazy pain in the butt. I'm wondering if any of you have any tricks to avoid this. I know parking against a hill can help, but I'm really talking about on a flat surface. Or do I just need to accept it and borrow a welder and make longer ramps?
I've seen people back their back wheels of their truck up on boards/oil ramps to give the trailer more of a downward angle in the back. It looks goofy, but it works for them.
If your trailer has a flat bed instead of a beavertail, it does make it more difficult.
My car is really low but I don't take the bumper cover off. I have a beavertail and my ramps are about 5 feet long plus I made some nice wooden ramp extensions that add about 30 more inches to the whole package. The extensions have a notch in them so the tip of the ramp sits down a little so there is an angle free, straight line and no lip all the way up the extensions, ramps and beavertail. I just toss the extensions in the back of the racecar or truck when not in use.
Without a beavertail or something to reduce the angle change from ramp to trailer deck, even if you get the nose to clear the ramps, I have often high centered the car and catch on the exhaust flanges, bolt heads, etc. which is a real bitch when the car is stuck half on and half off the trailer. After years of borrowing trailers and makeshift ramp situations, a good plan is so nice. It takes less than one minute to set up or put away my ramps and extensions. I can take a pic of the extensions tonight if anyone is interested.
My car is really low but I don't take the bumper cover off. I have a beavertail and my ramps are about 5 feet long plus I made some nice wooden ramp extensions that add about 30 more inches to the whole package. The extensions have a notch in them so the tip of the ramp sits down a little so there is an angle free, straight line and no lip all the way up the extensions, ramps and beavertail. I just toss the extensions in the back of the racecar or truck when not in use.
Without a beavertail or something to reduce the angle change from ramp to trailer deck, even if you get the nose to clear the ramps, I have often high centered the car and catch on the exhaust flanges, bolt heads, etc. which is a real bitch when the car is stuck half on and half off the trailer. After years of borrowing trailers and makeshift ramp situations, a good plan is so nice. It takes less than one minute to set up or put away my ramps and extensions. I can take a pic of the extensions tonight if anyone is interested.
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My car in autocross trim is very low. Less than 5" from the rocker to the ground. The first trailer that I had, I made 8' ramps with no drags loading. Those ramps, despite being designed for a light car were HEAVY.
The trailer that I have now, has a lower deck which helps on its own. I bought a set of the plastic oil change ramps from Wallyworld for $30. I just back the truck onto the ramps when loading the car and the 4' ramps (much lighter) work just fine.
The trailer that I have now, has a lower deck which helps on its own. I bought a set of the plastic oil change ramps from Wallyworld for $30. I just back the truck onto the ramps when loading the car and the 4' ramps (much lighter) work just fine.
Are you rubbing the chin as you pull the car up to the ramps? If so, you could try getting a couple long boards and bridging those from the ramp-to-ground to extend the ramps out father and flatten that approach angle. 12" wide x 1.5" thick x 4' long might work. You could also use the tongue lift to raise the front of the trailer up which will also flatten the ramp angle.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rickpeak »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ditto
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What they said, plus wood extension ramps.
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What they said, plus wood extension ramps.
Not sure where your problem is, I actually have trouble getting high- centered while loading the car on my flatbed trailer. I originally would put the 3 ton floor jack under the front of the trailer and lift it to get a better angle, but I didn't like the fact that I was lifting the back of the (usually loaded) truck by the trailer hitch. Now I just pull the truck's rear wheels onto oil change ramps. I use 6 foot ramps on the trailer but with this setup I still had problems, so I screwed together 2 2x8's in a little stairstep and I put then under the end of each ramp. The extra couple of inches is usually enough to make the ramps the same angle as the trailer bed, so it goes on with no trouble. One time I put a stock Civic on the trailer, DAMN it was easy! No trailer jacking, no ramp extensions, no door clearing the fender issues, just drive it right on, tie it down and drive away.
Sounds like I'll be throwing some wooden ramps together in the next few days. Over the weekend, I ended up putting the trailers back wheel in a 6" dip, and jacking the front as high as I could, then used oil change ramps, the 4' trailer ramps, and 4 2x4's.
Thanks for all the input!
Thanks for all the input!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Lee »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can take a pic of the extensions tonight if anyone is interested.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Please do!
I've had lots of trailer issues. Before, I had to take 8' wooden ramps and blocks to acompany the 4' steel ramps, and I had to jack up the front side of the trailer to get the car loaded. I really needed a dove-tail trailer. So I employed the help of my good 'ol pop...
old trailer...

snip...

weld... (and about 2 days of work)

make stupid ramps easier to drive up on...

all done...

It doesn't show it in the pic, but now the 4' ramps are all I need, and I don't have to jack up the front of the trailer any more. My only problem at the moment is I'm still lugging the heavy 4' ramps to and from the trailer. The next thing to do is put a tray on the trailer for the ramps, or make them swing up. I'd trade it all in an instant for a low riding enclosed trailer if I had the money.
Please do!I've had lots of trailer issues. Before, I had to take 8' wooden ramps and blocks to acompany the 4' steel ramps, and I had to jack up the front side of the trailer to get the car loaded. I really needed a dove-tail trailer. So I employed the help of my good 'ol pop...
old trailer...

snip...

weld... (and about 2 days of work)

make stupid ramps easier to drive up on...

all done...

It doesn't show it in the pic, but now the 4' ramps are all I need, and I don't have to jack up the front of the trailer any more. My only problem at the moment is I'm still lugging the heavy 4' ramps to and from the trailer. The next thing to do is put a tray on the trailer for the ramps, or make them swing up. I'd trade it all in an instant for a low riding enclosed trailer if I had the money.
I use a pretty high utility trailer that I borrow from work (price is right). It has 4' flip up ramps built onto it, I had some extensions made that slide telescopically into the channel-steel that the builtin ramps are made on, they make it about 8' long in total, and are easily stored in the tow vehicle.
Slick!
Slick!
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