Since I have far too many projects for my own good, I'm putting a few of them up for sale, this being one of them.

1996 Honda Civic Hatchback
- Roma Red
- Clean Title
- 43,000 miles on chassis

Exterior
x JDM Civic Type R power folding mirrors ( http://students.washington.edu...s.mpg )
- 99-00 Civic Si front end conversion
- JDM 'RS' grille badge
x 99-00 OEM civic red/clear taillights

Interior
- Skunk2 440gram (almost a pound ) shift **** ( http://www.overboost.com/obs/product.asp?pid=26848 )

Engine
- 1995 SOHC VTEC swap
- OBD2a -> OBD1 conversion harness
- Fake J's Racing Intake
- generic fartcan exhaust
- Fluidyne full length integra aluminum radiator
- Automatic to Manual Conversion

Suspension and Poo
- Ground Control coilovers w/ integra springrates
- KYB Adjustable shocks
x JDM Integra Type R 22mm rear swaybar
x Beaks subframe reinforcement kit
x Civic Si swaybar endlinks
x Suspension Techniques 24mm front swaybar
- Benen Rear Tie Bar (black)

Wheels and Brakes
- 16x7" Kosei K1 rims
x FastBrakes 11" Wilwood 4 Piston big brake kit
x Brembo rotors still in box w/ EBC 'green stuff' brake pads
- JDM Integra Type R brake booster
- Integra Type R 1" master cylinder
- Goodridge stainless steel lines in the front.


And some other misc. crap I forgot.

* - 'x' indicates not currently installed on the car.

No parting out, no trades.





MORE PICS IN MY PERSONAL GALLERY HERE: http://www.memphisracingscene....d=112

<FONT SIZE="18">$ 3,000 </FONT>For the whole car with the sohc swap, SRR LCAs, KYGs, Ground Controls, Benen Tie Bar

<FONT SIZE="18">$3,750 </FONT>for everything show in the list above

Car currently turns over but doesn't start (the swap is good however) and needs to have the wiring sorted out. Also needs a passenger side skirt and paint for the front end conversion and a new shifter console or boot since it used to be an automatic car.





Modified by FritzInTN at 8:14 AM 7/24/2004


Modified by FritzInTN at 6:10 PM 7/24/2004


Modified by FritzInTN at 6:10 PM 7/24/2004


Modified by FritzInTN at 6:11 PM 7/24/2004

 

too bad you dont take trades.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=934387

 

only if it had a swap

 

Do you have interior shots?

Did you change the cluster or is all the automatic stuff still in there?

Are you selling it because you cant get it running?

I might be interested, just need to see some pics.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ccusaterry &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you have interior shots?

Did you change the cluster or is all the automatic stuff still in there?

Are you selling it because you cant get it running?

I might be interested, just need to see some pics.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you follow the link in the post , http://www.memphisracingscene....d=112 , you should be able to view 10 or so pictures. There you can also find interior shots as well as a picture of the cluster, which is still an automatic (perfect for a CTR or Si cluster swap...).

 

good deal! bump

 

might want to change the last part on your description "used to be a manual car." i think you meant used to be auto. kind of confusing. just trying to help the sale. good luck great deal

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cdapimp691 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">might want to change the last part on your description "used to be a manual car." i think you meant used to be auto. kind of confusing. just trying to help the sale. good luck great deal</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks, I went ahead and update it

 

Just curious about the 1996 car, with a 1995 motor. What computer are you using? Wiring the OBD2 computer shouldn't be that much different than the stock wiring (only VTEC wiring would be different). I'm pretty interested, I'm in NW Arkansas, but I would much rather it be running. I sent you a PM, if you could, just reply and give me some more info on it

 

PM sent

 

 

did u cut and splice in teh new harness or did u try to change the pins? any info would bve great

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sinisterh22a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did u cut and splice in teh new harness or did u try to change the pins? any info would bve great</TD></TR></TABLE>

I originally had attempted to swap out the PINs to follow the diagram I found here and in the EG and EK Helms manual. All went well until the 2nd to last pin which cracked the connector on the engine harness. So I cut and spliced the appropriate wires (the blue wires in the picture were added for length). I didn't get much further than that or even hook up more than a few other sensors before 'throwing in the towel' and putting my effort into finding a nice M3 and finishing my bronco.

I do have a link to a guy on ebay who sells the OBD2-1 distributor conversion harnesses and tons of obd2-&gt;1 wiring schematics for the buyer. But if you are going with a Bseries swap in the future then it shouldnt matter. The swap was driven so I know the clutch and motor is good though.

 

why do you say it will not matter?.. also how bad of an accident was this car in?? frame damage?? was it your car or auction car?

 

The car was bought from a dealer before going to auction, checked for frame damage and then the radiator support was replaced with a 99-00 unit along with the hood and fenders. The original accident didn't seem bad. Personally I've been in much worse without the airbags deploying, it was really only enough to dent the radiator support in a few inches and bend the hood where it wouldn't latch. The radiator had some pinhole leaks and but the condensor survived. Kinda hard to explain without breaking out MSPaint.

I've yet to spot weld the radiator support back on, so for now its just bolted in which is more than adequate. Plus it makes for really easy engine swapping when you can pull the front end off in &lt;3 minutes.

As for 'wont matter' comment I'm not sure what I was thinking, nothing easier or harder would be involved. Damn nyquil.

Let me know if you have any other questions. I'll be up around 11pm-7am CST on AIM while I'm at work. AIM: 'Fritzisworking'

 

...

 

so what more is added for the extra 750??? BUMP

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicEKCP &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so what more is added for the extra 750??? BUMP</TD></TR></TABLE>

The 2,999 gets you the shell, sohc vtec swap, ground controls, kyg shocks, srr control arms and all the stock goodies and treats.

750 more gets you the pimpidy fluidyne raditor, the $900 fastbrakes 4 piston wilwood brake kit, jdm itr booster/master cylinder,swaybars, etc...

 

get that thing running and i'll be interested in buying it off of you

 

very very interested, please IM me on AIM to talk about it, if my away is up, IM me anyway

 

I guess the question is, what is it going to take to get it running?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ILuvJDMITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess the question is, what is it going to take to get it running?</TD></TR></TABLE>

read his comments and take a look in his photo section. **wiring**

bump for a pretty good deal.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nihonjin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

read his comments and take a look in his photo section. **wiring**

bump for a pretty good deal.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i want to know what else, ie. is the oem master cyl out? and does the rad have to be installed before it will run, or is the OEM in place?, are the brakes shot? and will the big brake kit have to be installed prior to driving? if I buy this thing, I am going to drive from NY with tools, a tent and a friend... and drive it back running. if I am going to do this, I need mucho info

 

this car is hot.

 

feeling ignored