Steering Rack rebuild, whats needed?
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 5,846
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From: San Jose/ Monterey, ca, usa
Allright folks, who here has rebuilt there racks? I am looking to do just that, and was wondering whats serviceable. Could anyone give me a parts list?
Ryan
Ryan
I tried it, I used this link to figure out the parts I needed: http://www.hondaautomotivepart...E+ROD
In the end though I ended up replacing the rack. I couldn't get the pinion to come free from the rack, and no one knew how to get it, so I swapped the whole thing.
In the end though I ended up replacing the rack. I couldn't get the pinion to come free from the rack, and no one knew how to get it, so I swapped the whole thing.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 5,846
Likes: 1
From: San Jose/ Monterey, ca, usa
Thats why I am asking, because our cars are starting to get old and these sort of things are starting to need rebuilding/replacing. The parts internally are pretty cheap through Majestic. Any other imput? Where can I get a cheap good quality one? Suggestions are apprecieated.
Ryan
Ryan
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Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 5,846
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From: San Jose/ Monterey, ca, usa
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1st-hybrid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think it was just over 200, like 230 or so. I got a reman with a lifetime warranty
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Ya man, where at? Thanks
</TD></TR></TABLE>Ya man, where at? Thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1st-hybrid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> http://www.hondaautomotivepart...E+ROD
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#10 is the only thing that is really serviceable. ive changed mine and ive noticed a very significant difference. but if the end boot is already torn, then its possible the inner tie rod is already bad and need of replacing, plus the hole rack would also be toast and total need of replacement. there is however that adjustment screw thats a big nut, but ive never adjusted that. anyone ever tried that?
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#10 is the only thing that is really serviceable. ive changed mine and ive noticed a very significant difference. but if the end boot is already torn, then its possible the inner tie rod is already bad and need of replacing, plus the hole rack would also be toast and total need of replacement. there is however that adjustment screw thats a big nut, but ive never adjusted that. anyone ever tried that?
I tried playing with it, but it didn't do anything noticable for me. I wasted a lot of time messing with it and wish I would have just swapped out the whole unit in the first place.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1st-hybrid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I got it at autozone.
It didn't come with tie-rod ends or the two bushings that go in the rack where it bolts up on the drivers side.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So you pretty much ended up with #10 in the honda picture?
It didn't come with tie-rod ends or the two bushings that go in the rack where it bolts up on the drivers side.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So you pretty much ended up with #10 in the honda picture?
The inner and outer tie rod's can be swapped with no problems though right?
I know my outer tie rods are shot, the ball joints on them are sloppy.. and I think i can hear the passenger side inner tie rod, has a small knock to it with i fiddle around.
I can swap those out without pulling the whole steering rack right?
I know my outer tie rods are shot, the ball joints on them are sloppy.. and I think i can hear the passenger side inner tie rod, has a small knock to it with i fiddle around.
I can swap those out without pulling the whole steering rack right?
see, i think that small knock in the passenger side is the #10 bushing and probably not the inner ball joint. its a lot easier for the plastic bushing to get messed up than a tight steel ball joint i would think.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jonathan_EH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
So you pretty much ended up with #10 in the honda picture?
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I ended up with number 1 complete assembly.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Keebler »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The inner and outer tie rod's can be swapped with no problems though right?
I know my outer tie rods are shot, the ball joints on them are sloppy.. and I think i can hear the passenger side inner tie rod, has a small knock to it with i fiddle around.
I can swap those out without pulling the whole steering rack right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't think the inners are changable, and if they are it'll be a bitch. The outers are very easy to do though, and can be done without pulling the rack.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">see, i think that small knock in the passenger side is the #10 bushing and probably not the inner ball joint. its a lot easier for the plastic bushing to get messed up than a tight steel ball joint i would think.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I believe your right, I think 10 would just cause some sloppyness in the rack. In all the racks i've pulled about 3 or 4, the inners have had a little play, but none have knocked at all.
So you pretty much ended up with #10 in the honda picture?
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I ended up with number 1 complete assembly.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Keebler »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The inner and outer tie rod's can be swapped with no problems though right?
I know my outer tie rods are shot, the ball joints on them are sloppy.. and I think i can hear the passenger side inner tie rod, has a small knock to it with i fiddle around.
I can swap those out without pulling the whole steering rack right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't think the inners are changable, and if they are it'll be a bitch. The outers are very easy to do though, and can be done without pulling the rack.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">see, i think that small knock in the passenger side is the #10 bushing and probably not the inner ball joint. its a lot easier for the plastic bushing to get messed up than a tight steel ball joint i would think.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I believe your right, I think 10 would just cause some sloppyness in the rack. In all the racks i've pulled about 3 or 4, the inners have had a little play, but none have knocked at all.
to change the inner tie rod is not hard. easier than the outer actually since you dont have to mess with removing the outer ball joint (unless you know how to do it the quick way, ie BFH) you dont have to drop the steering rack, but it helps to unbolt it. you just wrench it off and wrench a new one back on with a new crush washer.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 5,846
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From: San Jose/ Monterey, ca, usa
How hard is the #10 to replace? Im thinking about replacing #10, #12 and tighting the bolt, is this a good idea?
Ryan
Ryan
Autozone's got a good priced reman one....I need it, along w/bushings. Sticky tires and stiff suspension reveals very worn out bushings and rack.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to change the inner tie rod is not hard. easier than the outer actually since you dont have to mess with removing the outer ball joint (unless you know how to do it the quick way, ie BFH) you dont have to drop the steering rack, but it helps to unbolt it. you just wrench it off and wrench a new one back on with a new crush washer.</TD></TR></TABLE>
See, thats what I was thinking.. Ive looked at it, just havent ordered the new parts yet. Inners look pretty easy, outers are no problem, just have to make sure they are adjusted out correctly until you make it to an alignment shop
See, thats what I was thinking.. Ive looked at it, just havent ordered the new parts yet. Inners look pretty easy, outers are no problem, just have to make sure they are adjusted out correctly until you make it to an alignment shop
Hi there Ryan;
I'm not sure about prices, but the San Leandro Honda web site has better pictures than Majestic Honda (and also has the Honda part numbers listed) I got the diagram from there for a manual rack (89 Si 3door hatch) and the photo numbers are off of that.
http://slhondaparts.com/
I obviously don't know what's worn out in your rack but it would seem to me that if it's "internal", you would have to replace the "rack bar" (item #9) and also the pinion gear (item #6)
You should always count on replacing the boots and they are different on each side (items 23 and 24). The clamps for them are re-usable.
There is lock washer on both sides that you will have to replace (item #21, get two). They are a "bending" type washer that you bend over the nut. Trust me, you can't re-use them.
As for a comment that was made in an earlier post in regards to replacing the inner tie rod ball joints while still in the car; I'd have to dis-agree! Getting that lock washer noted in the prior paragraph to release from the nut required some major hammer work. Then when you go to bend the new washer, it also requires hammer work to bend it and it's on two faces (in other words, on two opposing faces of the nut). I tried bending it with a very large channel lock wrench and had NO luck.
I'd also recommend that you pick up new outter ball joint "boots" (item 26). They don't cost much and tend to get messed up while taking this stuff apart. (It always happens when you need the car the next day!)
(Ryan, by the way, I still have that old rack sitting in the garage)
Wes
I'm not sure about prices, but the San Leandro Honda web site has better pictures than Majestic Honda (and also has the Honda part numbers listed) I got the diagram from there for a manual rack (89 Si 3door hatch) and the photo numbers are off of that.
http://slhondaparts.com/
I obviously don't know what's worn out in your rack but it would seem to me that if it's "internal", you would have to replace the "rack bar" (item #9) and also the pinion gear (item #6)
You should always count on replacing the boots and they are different on each side (items 23 and 24). The clamps for them are re-usable.
There is lock washer on both sides that you will have to replace (item #21, get two). They are a "bending" type washer that you bend over the nut. Trust me, you can't re-use them.
As for a comment that was made in an earlier post in regards to replacing the inner tie rod ball joints while still in the car; I'd have to dis-agree! Getting that lock washer noted in the prior paragraph to release from the nut required some major hammer work. Then when you go to bend the new washer, it also requires hammer work to bend it and it's on two faces (in other words, on two opposing faces of the nut). I tried bending it with a very large channel lock wrench and had NO luck.
I'd also recommend that you pick up new outter ball joint "boots" (item 26). They don't cost much and tend to get messed up while taking this stuff apart. (It always happens when you need the car the next day!)
(Ryan, by the way, I still have that old rack sitting in the garage)
Wes
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2002
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From: San Jose/ Monterey, ca, usa
Thanks again Wes ( big help as usual). Thats what I was thinking, get your old rack, rebuild it then install that so I would not have any down time. But, it seems like a lot of work, and if I miss anything, it wouldnt be worth it. I will likely end up just getting a new one. Thanks



