I have this really good idea... sounds cost effective, and you get your moneys worth from it...

Now when you get a turbo setup you need a fmu, a btm, fuel injectors...
Those three things would be covered by an ecu upgrade and a better fuel pump alone correct? so I could just get a pump and some 450cc injectors... and thats covered...?
(and a timer too... for engine life)
Drop in the manifold, turbo, downpipe, and voila its boosted...?!

Realistic?! Looking for a quick answer too...

I want to run 8psi on the stock LX F22b motor.

Please tell me what u think.

Looking to hit 220hp hopefully...maybe 250.. if i can push it that far..

-KamakazieX

 

Alright i'm going to repost to make sure I list my idea right...

So heres what I think can be done cost-effectively and sucessfully and maybe run even better (since its ecu controlled like a stock accord)

We've got a drag turbo setup to go on an accord from a site... FMAX II kit *example..
(ripped the parts list from turbo-kits.com)

FMAX Accord Turbo Kits Include:
- T3/T04B Turbonetics Turbo [X] Pretty much can find anywhere for 200-400$
- Thermocoated Cast-Steel Turbo Manifold [X] Got that covered
- Thermocoated Mandrel-Bent Downpipe [X] Pretty much 30-50$ to fab at a shop
- Turbonetics Evolution 35mm Wastegate [X] Got that covered
- Spearco W.A.V.E Front-Mount Intercooler [ ]
- MF2 ERL 3D Map Injector Controller *** COVERED BY ECU UPGRADE?
- MSD Boost Timing Manager (BTM) *** COVERED BY ECU UPGRADE?
- 440cc Lucas Fuel Injectors (2) [ ] to buy
- Turbonetics Raptor Blow Off Valve (BOV) [X] Pretty much standard
- 2 Bar Map Sensor [ ] necessity?
- K&N Air Filter [X] If your on these forums u got one...lol
- (1) Case TS-1 Synthetic Turbo Oil
- Install Instructions & Wiring Diagrams
- All Necessary Hardware & Fittings


-------

So am I making sense here... I'm no mechanic just a hobbyist, looking to see if I could make a good daily driver here... sounds like a really smart plan and logical.

So... A fuel pump upgrade, 440cc fuel injectors, my msd6a, rigged to an upgraded ecu... with a T3 on a iceman manifold and 2.5" catback.

 

Why push 8 when you can do 10? Dont run a FMU, utilize the VAFC hack methid instead. Its praised as one of the better cheap piggyback systems when boosting. The F series is a great motor to boost so good luck. Yes it all can be done. Just look and search around this site and youll find some amazing turbo'd accords.

 

youre probably going to want that intercooler....just my .02

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by propwdialogue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">youre probably going to want that intercooler....just my .02 </TD></TR></TABLE>

definetley, definetley

 

get a IC with that, compressed air is very hot, pull in some crappy gas, hot weather and WOT and you'll need to start all over again.

you'll need a bigger fuel pump no matter what, the one you have will not last you a block from your garage.
bigger injectors, neither RC's or dsm blue top will do the job.
please do not run FMU, get a SAFC instead, you can find a used one for 180-200 shipped. At least you have some control over the fuel curve instead of letting that little metal piston in your FMU do the guessing.
you'll need a FUEL pressure regulator also(b&M, aem, etc)

is your car obd1?
well, let us know

 

But, do you see what im saying?... The FMU/SAFC device will be replaced by a proper Jet ECU upgrade...remaps the fuel/shift timing/curve... and all i need to do is tell them im running a T3...the size of the turbine/compressor, and mods i have and I wont need that **** correct? (of course I wont be able to tune it myself but it should suffice very very well if its a tuned ecu.)

From there... pickup a bigger fuel pump, some injectors (probably accel from mr. gasket site if i can find some that fit.. 450cc?), and run an oil line to the turbo???...

 

BTW its ...OBD o0?!...lol its a 1994 LX Sedan... i think obd2..thats a guess

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KamakazieX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BTW its ...OBD o0?!...lol its a 1994 LX Sedan... i think obd2..thats a guess</TD></TR></TABLE>
that would be obd1...hopefully you have a feed and return...it sounds like youve done some research, just keep on doing it. many many many late nights on the net taught me about it, and then i was ready to go

 

im pretty much pulling this out of my ***.. what im asking for is an instruction sheet here with a parts list to do it with an ecu upgrade. like for eg. I know you need to drill a hole in the oil pan to make an oil feed return line.. sure I can pick parts out of other posts, but it cant hurt to double check with everyone? :-)
-Kama

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KamakazieX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and all i need to do is tell them im running a T3...the size of the turbine/compressor, and mods i have and I wont need that **** correct? (of course I wont be able to tune it myself but it should suffice very very well if its a tuned ecu.)</TD></TR></TABLE>

no, i would never tune by phone or get a chip burned for my modifications...part of tuning is trial and error (typically on a dyno implementing a wideband o2)...this allows you to get readings from the engine and then adjust the parameters accordingly...the JET ecu chip is a pretty bad example of a tuned ecu...

since it appears that you are somewhat just getting started with the whole idea of boosting, you may want to invest in a turbo kit first so that everything that you need is already there...afterwards, you can start upgrading your parts to whatever suits you...

 

The whole idea is to make it cost effective.. 4000$ for parts and an instruction sheet is no way cost effective compared to spending around 800 for picking up the parts yourself from a junkyard setup or for example.. a used FMAX manifold for 200$

 

when boosting a non-turboed engine, the most important thing in terms of saftey, reliabilty, performance, and effeciency is the fuel/electrical systems. personally, id rather spend the extra money and run hondata or other full piggyback system, even for "lower" boost levels. of course, in a perfect world, standalones would cost alot less, but under no circumstances is an "upgraded" or "chipped" ecu as good as one that has plug and play features, and allows your to do things by trial and error. your best bet when building your own turbo setup is to talk to the guy whos going to tune it (dyno)/help in the more exteneisve fabrications (IC/charge piping, manifolds, custom stuff, etc.).....

 

i'm pretty sure that Jet chips advance timing, which isn't a good starting point for a boosted car (boom).

you won't piece together a kit for $800. Even if you got all used pieces, you're still looking at $60 for 450cc dsm injectors, $75 for a fuel pump, $150 for a used intercooler (like out of an old starion), $200 for a manifold, $150+ for a turbo, $200 for an SAFC, plus a downpipe, intercooler piping, all your silicone couplings, etc etc

you'd be better off to buy a used drag or other turbo kit for ~$1500-2000 and upgrade to an SAFC later than to try and run a non-intercooled junkyard kit.

and in case you didn't catch it - the answer to your question is no lol. You can't use a Jet ECU to manage the increased demands a turbo makes on your engine

 

http://www.turbo-kits.com/imag...t.jpg

Drag Accord Turbo Kits Include:
- Polished Turbonetics T3/T04E
- Drag High Flow Cast Iron Manifold
- Spearco Front-Mount Intercooler
- Turbonetics Delta gate Mark II Wastegate
- 2.5" Drag Downpipe w/ O2 Sensors Bung
- Drag Wastegate Dump Tube
- BLITZ Dual Drive Bypass Valve (BOV)
- Map Sensor Bypass Valves
- Vortech 12:1 Fuel Regulator
- Drag High Flow Intake System
- High Flow BOSCH Fuel Pump
- Steel Braided "Goodridge" Oil Feed Line
- High Temp, Heavy Duty Oil Return Lines
- All nessasary hardware and fittings
- All nessassary hose and hose clamps
- All nessassary gaskets

Would this turbo kit run if I bought it and just put it on with what it came with?

Or do I need to get more than whats listed?

 

it comes with MAP sensor bypasses.......so you can ghetto rig it to work.....but would why you ever not want to run a reliable fuel managment system?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fw190bvi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it comes with MAP sensor bypasses.......so you can ghetto rig it to work.....but would why you ever not want to run a reliable fuel managment system?</TD></TR></TABLE>

What would my alternatives be to finalize the daily driver?

 

i would buy a drag kit, but then get a set of 450cc or 440cc injectors, 255 pump and an SAFC (should be able to get it all used for $400) and use that route for fuel management.

but you need to research a LOT before you just go out and buy

 

dont listen to all these sissies!

a FMU is safer IMO then the AFC-hack, ur only going to be running low boost! get u a Walbro intank fuel pump, ur gonna need one anyways, get you a 12:1 FMU for like 50 bucks and a missing link maybe 30-40 bucks, and thats ur engine management, at least for now! when u stik ur leg in the turbo world, it's gonna cost money! soo if ur desperate to get boosted....go the FMU route, no need to worry bout being tuned untill you save up for the real deal. if u wanna do it right....ur gonna need a AEM EMS, or Hondata, or Uberdata, or Chrome, etc..... and for it to be tuned.....haha....thats also gonna be some money, not a few pennies.
buy a drag kit, i got mine for 2,000, used, but barely used. if not, buy u a manifold, turbo, and piping, intercooler, then buy my missing link and my FMU :D

anyways, do ur research, u have too. your jumping into the turbo world, u'd better know what ur doing, mistakes are costly.

do ur research on the FMU route and the HACK, then u decide what risks u wanna take.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Drag Accord Turbo Kits Include:
- Polished Turbonetics T3/T04E
- Drag High Flow Cast Iron Manifold
- Spearco Front-Mount Intercooler
- Turbonetics Delta gate Mark II Wastegate
- 2.5" Drag Downpipe w/ O2 Sensors Bung
- Drag Wastegate Dump Tube
- BLITZ Dual Drive Bypass Valve (BOV)
- Map Sensor Bypass Valves
- Vortech 12:1 Fuel Regulator
- Drag High Flow Intake System
- High Flow BOSCH Fuel Pump
- Steel Braided "Goodridge" Oil Feed Line
- High Temp, Heavy Duty Oil Return Lines
- All nessasary hardware and fittings
- All nessassary hose and hose clamps
- All nessassary gaskets

Would this turbo kit run if I bought it and just put it on with what it came with?

Or do I need to get more than whats listed?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

this will get u boosted, just dont run more then 7-8psi to be on the safe side. i started off with this kit. start ur way from here, then work ur way up. to upgrade, all u'll need is injectors, and a EMS. u can save up for that in the mean time. feel the boost, learn the boost, then decide. this is the money hole, only returns u'll see is u passing cars u never thought u could, but thats priceless!

 

b_ron everytime i start to think of you as somewhat knowledgeable, you make a post like that and make me wonder why the hell you haven't blown your car up yet.

the FMU route isn't that much cheaper, and it is the shittiest setup imaginable. You'll spend $100 going that route. For another $200 (or less) you can get a MUCH BETTER fuel mgmt setup with the SAFC. Granted, its still not a standalone, but its a hell of a lot better than an FMU setup. And a lot cheaper than dropping $1000 on an AEM EMS.

 

I'm new to this site, but I have to agree that the FMU system is not really the best way to go. One thing i have to search about though is this afc hack thing

 

the afc "hack" is basically just a piggy back setup. You run bigger (usually 440cc or 450cc) injectors, bigger pump (walbro 255) and then you use an Apex'i SAFC to adjust your fuel curve to get a smooth transition at boost. For instance, because you're running 440+ injectors instead of stock (which is 290cc i think), usually at idle you program the SAFC to run -40%, and so on.

 

there are alot of threads on this. do a search and you will find it. everyone has their opinions, i was fine at 7psi on an fmu...but when i had boost creep to 13..thats all she wrote...if you wanna make real power and do it the safest way, go big time. but an fmu will get you buy, theres people on this board that have been running on them for years

 

secksiman19 what kind of car do you drive that you were ok with the FMU. I have a friend that is interested. and i would think that any boosted honda with stock internals wouldn't handle 13psi all that well