Anyone ever polish their stock 94-95 GSR wheels ????????
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,338
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX, US
Re: Anyone ever polish their stock 94-95 GSR wheels ???????? (MUTANT X)
I know there's a thread with some...i found it a while back. They looks soooo ****** clean when polished. I'll see if I can find the pics again.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Anyone ever polish their stock 94-95 GSR wheels ???????? (95integraLS)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95integraLS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know there's a thread with some...i found it a while back. They looks soooo ****** clean when polished. I'll see if I can find the pics again.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i been searching but gave up .
i been searching but gave up .
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Anyone ever polish their stock 94-95 GSR wheels ???????? (95integraLS)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95integraLS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Found em!!! 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
holy *****!! they look awsome. Ok I will definitly do it. Does anyone know what steps to get them like the ones on the pics?
</TD></TR></TABLE>holy *****!! they look awsome. Ok I will definitly do it. Does anyone know what steps to get them like the ones on the pics?
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,338
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX, US
Re: Anyone ever polish their stock 94-95 GSR wheels ???????? (MUTANT X)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MUTANT X »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
holy *****!! they look awsome. Ok I will definitly do it. Does anyone know what steps to get them like the ones on the pics?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Get a good nights rest...then polish like there's no tomorrow!
holy *****!! they look awsome. Ok I will definitly do it. Does anyone know what steps to get them like the ones on the pics?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Get a good nights rest...then polish like there's no tomorrow!
Trending Topics
. I assume this works for the gsr blades also?
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,338
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX, US
Re: (xprohx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xprohx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I assume this works for the gsr blades also?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Arent they already polished?
Arent they already polished?
Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,416
Likes: 0
From: Formerly pdcdragon, CA, US
Re: Anyone ever polish their stock 94-95 GSR wheels ???????? (MUTANT X)
imo i think the 94-95 gsr's look good the way they are, its too much wheel to be polished like that... it looks tacky in my opinion. It looks like adding mad fat heavy chrome wheels to ur ride... just not wit it.
the newer gsr blade wheels look good polished because its got much less surface are on its face and only the surface is polished.
the newer gsr blade wheels look good polished because its got much less surface are on its face and only the surface is polished.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,004
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Re: Anyone ever polish their stock 94-95 GSR wheels ???????? (MUTANT X)
"Turbo Tage" did it wayyy back in like 98 or 99, I remember reading on his site about them forever ago. He said he spent 20+ man hours working on it, which is like an entire afternoon to do just ONE wheel.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,339
Likes: 0
From: Central PA, US
Re: Anyone ever polish their stock 94-95 GSR wheels ???????? (pdcdragon)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdcdragon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">imo i think the 94-95 gsr's look good the way they are, its too much wheel to be polished like that... it looks tacky in my opinion. It looks like adding mad fat heavy chrome wheels to ur ride... just not wit it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Couldn't agree more.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Couldn't agree more.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Anyone ever polish their stock 94-95 GSR wheels ???????? (PatrickGSR94)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"Turbo Tage" did it wayyy back in like 98 or 99, I remember reading on his site about them forever ago. He said he spent 20+ man hours working on it, which is like an entire afternoon to do just ONE wheel.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Very Very nice. I was inspired to do this because I saw an AUDI A6 with factory 5 spoke polished wheels and they looked really nice. The A6 has very similar pattern to 94-95 gsr wheels too.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Very Very nice. I was inspired to do this because I saw an AUDI A6 with factory 5 spoke polished wheels and they looked really nice. The A6 has very similar pattern to 94-95 gsr wheels too.
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,338
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX, US
Re: Anyone ever polish their stock 94-95 GSR wheels ???????? (PatrickGSR94)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That looks so ******* pimp!! *right clicks - save as*
</TD></TR></TABLE>That looks so ******* pimp!! *right clicks - save as*
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,570
Likes: 0
From: Pinole, ca, United States
Re: Anyone ever polish their stock 94-95 GSR wheels ???????? (95integraLS)
Yo someone needs to do a how to on this cuz that is hot as hell. I would do it in a second if i knew what to do. Also searching and not finding any instructions.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Anyone ever polish their stock 94-95 GSR wheels ???????? (95integraLS)
Here is what i've got so far... Google.com
Aluminum and stainless
There are hundreds of alloys of both, but all share the fact that they oxidize at the surface. In fact, that oxide layer is what protects the metal from further corrosion. All you have to do is remove the oxide, and get it smooth enough (easier said than done), and it will rival chrome in shine. I actually prefer the softer look of polished aluminum, but I may be conning myself as I can't afford all those chrome parts.
Smoothing
If the part is just oxidized and gray, but smooth, skip on down to "Buffing." But if it is pitted or scratched, it must be smoothed. Ya can't polish pits. Trust me in this.
Wet-sand the part with #600 wet-dry paper using a little liquid dish soap in the water. Sand for a while, then wipe off the dreck, and look closely. If you can still see the pits or scratches through the dark, dull gray, ya ain't done. When you have a uniform, dull gray, you're ready to buff. Don't worry too much about screw recesses and other hard to reach places, they don't show in the finished job if the edges are smooth.
Buffing
The final polish on metal is achieved by buffing it with a rotating wheel which has been loaded with a buffing compound. These compounds are very fine abrasives, usually combined with wax in a bar form. From the coarsest to the finest, they are:
# Emery (gray) - aggressive, usually used on steel.
# Tripoli (brown) - usually used on brass.
# White compound (white) - for fine polishing.
# Jeweler's Rouge (usually pink) - the finest, for a mirror finish.
I usually don't use any except emery and rouge. Emery is good for a first cut on stainless, or on aluminum where I didn't sand enough, followed by rouge. Usually you can go directly from wet sanding to rouge.
Buffing is a "feel" thing. Keep the wheel moving and you will see when it is polishing effectively. Wipe off the wax schmutz now and then and have a look. Different alloys require different compounds, speeds, and pressure. You can't really hurt anything, so experiment. If you want to get really ****, do a final hand polish (see "Maintenance" below).
Wheels
Use only cloth wheels. Sisal is too aggressive, and felt doesn't conform to the odd shapes of cycle parts. Look at the side of a buffing wheel and note the ring(s) of stitching. Fewer rings means softer (for polishing), more rings means harder (for cutting). A 6" wheel can have from one to seven rings. Use a harder buff with emery, a softer buff with rouge. Speed depends on wheel size. For a 6" max. 3500 RPM, 4" about 6000 RPM, 2" about 12000 RPM, and the little sub-1" wheels can be turned up to 15000 RPM. Go by the wheel manufacturer's specifications.
Wheels come with a bunch of different hole sizes, so get the right mandrel or bushings. An unbalanced wheel at 6000 RPM will get your attention! The mandrel is the Steel shaft which holds the wheel, and is turned by the tool. You can get sets for use in an electric drill at the hardware store, but you need a drill that turns up to about 2000 RPM.
Start at slower speeds, and work up. You can be too fast as well as too slow.
Use the buff so that it rotates off the edge of the piece. If it rotates toward the edge, well, let's just say you will learn quickly after it throws a couple of pieces at you.
Load the wheel by arranging it so the top is turning away from you, then apply the bar of compound for a few seconds. You will see it melt in. After you load a few times, you will see clumps of compound build up in the wheel. Again, have the top of the wheel turning away from you while you"rake" the wheel. They sell wheel rakes, but I just use an old "Sawsall" blade. Rake between different compounds, too, but it's best to have one wheel dedicated to one compound. Mark the wheel with a magic marker. WEAR EYE PROTECTION! Read that last sentence again.
Tools
Ah, the Tim Allen moment (argh!). Listed below in order of purchase.
# Electric drill turning 2" and 4" wheels at about 2000 RPM. I use a Bosch, which was the fastest I could find, and it does a nice job with hardware store wheels. The problem is, those wheels won't fit into all the little spaces. By and large, use the biggest wheel that will fit, as the smaller ones can streak.
# "Dremel" type tool. I use a $30 Black and Decker (at Home Depot) as I think Dremel is overpriced. It will turn all Dremel bitts and buffs, which you can get in hardware stores. I usually use the low or middle speeds (12000, 24000). The 1" buffs will fit most places, and there are small (3/8) felt bullet shapes which fit into screw recesses.
# Bench mount grinder with two 1/2" buffs on each shaft, a hard pair for emery, soft for rouge. This is wonderful if you can take the part to the buffer. When I had the rocker boxes and front sprocket cover off to install 20 more cubic inches (argh!, argh!) it did a beautiful job. Limited use though.
Aluminum and stainless
There are hundreds of alloys of both, but all share the fact that they oxidize at the surface. In fact, that oxide layer is what protects the metal from further corrosion. All you have to do is remove the oxide, and get it smooth enough (easier said than done), and it will rival chrome in shine. I actually prefer the softer look of polished aluminum, but I may be conning myself as I can't afford all those chrome parts.
Smoothing
If the part is just oxidized and gray, but smooth, skip on down to "Buffing." But if it is pitted or scratched, it must be smoothed. Ya can't polish pits. Trust me in this.
Wet-sand the part with #600 wet-dry paper using a little liquid dish soap in the water. Sand for a while, then wipe off the dreck, and look closely. If you can still see the pits or scratches through the dark, dull gray, ya ain't done. When you have a uniform, dull gray, you're ready to buff. Don't worry too much about screw recesses and other hard to reach places, they don't show in the finished job if the edges are smooth.
Buffing
The final polish on metal is achieved by buffing it with a rotating wheel which has been loaded with a buffing compound. These compounds are very fine abrasives, usually combined with wax in a bar form. From the coarsest to the finest, they are:
# Emery (gray) - aggressive, usually used on steel.
# Tripoli (brown) - usually used on brass.
# White compound (white) - for fine polishing.
# Jeweler's Rouge (usually pink) - the finest, for a mirror finish.
I usually don't use any except emery and rouge. Emery is good for a first cut on stainless, or on aluminum where I didn't sand enough, followed by rouge. Usually you can go directly from wet sanding to rouge.
Buffing is a "feel" thing. Keep the wheel moving and you will see when it is polishing effectively. Wipe off the wax schmutz now and then and have a look. Different alloys require different compounds, speeds, and pressure. You can't really hurt anything, so experiment. If you want to get really ****, do a final hand polish (see "Maintenance" below).
Wheels
Use only cloth wheels. Sisal is too aggressive, and felt doesn't conform to the odd shapes of cycle parts. Look at the side of a buffing wheel and note the ring(s) of stitching. Fewer rings means softer (for polishing), more rings means harder (for cutting). A 6" wheel can have from one to seven rings. Use a harder buff with emery, a softer buff with rouge. Speed depends on wheel size. For a 6" max. 3500 RPM, 4" about 6000 RPM, 2" about 12000 RPM, and the little sub-1" wheels can be turned up to 15000 RPM. Go by the wheel manufacturer's specifications.
Wheels come with a bunch of different hole sizes, so get the right mandrel or bushings. An unbalanced wheel at 6000 RPM will get your attention! The mandrel is the Steel shaft which holds the wheel, and is turned by the tool. You can get sets for use in an electric drill at the hardware store, but you need a drill that turns up to about 2000 RPM.
Start at slower speeds, and work up. You can be too fast as well as too slow.
Use the buff so that it rotates off the edge of the piece. If it rotates toward the edge, well, let's just say you will learn quickly after it throws a couple of pieces at you.
Load the wheel by arranging it so the top is turning away from you, then apply the bar of compound for a few seconds. You will see it melt in. After you load a few times, you will see clumps of compound build up in the wheel. Again, have the top of the wheel turning away from you while you"rake" the wheel. They sell wheel rakes, but I just use an old "Sawsall" blade. Rake between different compounds, too, but it's best to have one wheel dedicated to one compound. Mark the wheel with a magic marker. WEAR EYE PROTECTION! Read that last sentence again.
Tools
Ah, the Tim Allen moment (argh!). Listed below in order of purchase.
# Electric drill turning 2" and 4" wheels at about 2000 RPM. I use a Bosch, which was the fastest I could find, and it does a nice job with hardware store wheels. The problem is, those wheels won't fit into all the little spaces. By and large, use the biggest wheel that will fit, as the smaller ones can streak.
# "Dremel" type tool. I use a $30 Black and Decker (at Home Depot) as I think Dremel is overpriced. It will turn all Dremel bitts and buffs, which you can get in hardware stores. I usually use the low or middle speeds (12000, 24000). The 1" buffs will fit most places, and there are small (3/8) felt bullet shapes which fit into screw recesses.
# Bench mount grinder with two 1/2" buffs on each shaft, a hard pair for emery, soft for rouge. This is wonderful if you can take the part to the buffer. When I had the rocker boxes and front sprocket cover off to install 20 more cubic inches (argh!, argh!) it did a beautiful job. Limited use though.