how do i connect up 2 amps in my car? do i use 1 power wire and just run the power to one amp then another wire to the other amp. and then ground it. same with remote wire. one is for my highs and the other for subs. i also have a crossover to my subs.. and crossovers for my highs.

 

each amp needs a seperate power wire, the power wires usually have fuses and the amps will need their own fuses. ground them both to the same location or to 2 different locations on the chassis, either way. The one remote can be split and run to both.

 

thanks for ur reply.

 

why not just run one wire and then hook it up to a distribution block and then run wires from there to each amp. it saves the hassle of running 2 wires from the engine to the trunk

 

thats true. where can i get a block from?

 

A bolt, nut, some ring terminals, and e-tape....you can get those anywhere...

But as for a distribution block, you can spring for one at any car audio place pretty much.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black Ex Coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why not just run one wire and then hook it up to a distribution block and then run wires from there to each amp. it saves the hassle of running 2 wires from the engine to the trunk </TD></TR></TABLE> As power takes the coarse of least resistance, when the sub amp needs power, [when subs are hitting hard] the amp will draw it from where ever it can , and as the the power supply [caps] in the highpass amp are closer then the batt. it will draw it from there, starving the highpass amp of power , also if adding cap running two power lines will isolate the cap to the sub amp, also every connection you make has resistance 94

 

power wire from batt. to cap.
cap to distro block.
block to amps.
ALWAYS ground at the same point. i recommend a distro block for the grounds too.

if you wanna isolate the cap to the sub amp...
distro block to cap to sub amp.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Phat_Jax &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A bolt, nut, some ring terminals, and e-tape....you can get those anywhere...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
you're kidding, right?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G1_TEGGY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">each amp needs a seperate power wire, the power wires usually have fuses and the amps will need their own fuses. ground them both to the same location or to 2 different locations on the chassis, either way. The one remote can be split and run to both. </TD></TR></TABLE>


umm...no.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G1_TEGGY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">each amp needs a seperate power wire, the power wires usually have fuses and the amps will need their own fuses. ground them both to the same location or to 2 different locations on the chassis, either way. The one remote can be split and run to both. </TD></TR></TABLE>

If you have decent amps, they should have an internal fuse. The power wire from the battery should be fused as close to the battery terminal as possible. Run this wire to the back of the car or wherever you have your amps mounted.
Get a cheap distribution block from stinger or knukonceptz, avaliable on ebay for cheap.
These dist. blocks usually step it down to a smaller wire size which will split the current to your two amps.
Get the same size wire as the power wire to your amp. Its best to make it as short as possible. Any factory bolt works good. Make sure to grind the paint off of the body around the bolt.

Depending on your amps current draw, Id suggest a 4 guage minimumfor the main power wire.

 

i have a clarion 200.2 for my highs.. and a phoenix gold 800.2 for my subs. they are good amps great quality i think. ill post pics of my instal when im finished. was gonna go for show look.. but now gonna hide everything.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integra-modder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you have decent amps, they should have an internal fuse. The power wire from the battery should be fused as close to the battery terminal as possible. Run this wire to the back of the car or wherever you have your amps mounted.
Get a cheap distribution block from stinger or knukonceptz, avaliable on ebay for cheap.
These dist. blocks usually step it down to a smaller wire size which will split the current to your two amps.
Get the same size wire as the power wire to your amp. Its best to make it as short as possible. Any factory bolt works good. Make sure to grind the paint off of the body around the bolt.

Depending on your amps current draw, Id suggest a 4 guage minimumfor the main power wire.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i agree with pretty much all you said except that i've noticed a lot of the higher end amps DO NOT have internal fuses. i'm using a memphis mojo amp (pretty damn good amp) and an mmats amp (ditto.), neither are internally fused for some reason. it's the same thing with the ever so popular fosgate bds.

 

Run 2 power leads, take my word for it, it works, and for the ones that don't belive me, do it your way,one wire, distribution resistors, sorry blocks, and try and isolate cap after resistor,o right dist.block.

Then do what I do in my shop to convince the unbeliver, run a power wire [outside the car] to the sub amp, disconnect your power to the amp and hook up the one you just ran, I have 6 " test' power wires made up 10ga,8ga,4ga one 8ft and one 16ft of each, and one 16ft 2ga , it takes me less then 5min to convince someone to spend $50 + to run the extra lead, it makes that much of a differance.

94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spark plugs. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you're kidding, right?</TD></TR></TABLE>


Why not? It's just as good of a connection if not usually better. Just doesn't look as pretty.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Phat_Jax &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Why not? It's just as good of a connection if not usually better. Just doesn't look as pretty.</TD></TR></TABLE> If I had to, I would use the ring term. and bolt before I use the distribution resister,o sorry there I go again, "distribution block"
Its still better to run another power wire

94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its still better to run another power wire </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, that's why I have two 1/0 runs from my back batteries to my amps.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Phat_Jax &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah, that's why I have two 1/0 runs from my back batteries to my amps. </TD></TR></TABLE>