the easiest way to pack four 10's into a 93 civic coupe?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DjN3M3SiS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just wondering if there is any special boxes they make or the best way to do it?
thanks</TD></TR></TABLE> clamshell isobaric.
94
thanks</TD></TR></TABLE> clamshell isobaric.
94
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> clamshell isobaric.
94</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think its called a fourth order isobaric.. or something like that
94</TD></TR></TABLE>I think its called a fourth order isobaric.. or something like that
and then you would only be getting the output of two woofers - but in half the space...
when asked a question like this, I resort to my best car audio tool - fiberglass!
when asked a question like this, I resort to my best car audio tool - fiberglass!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rcurley55 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and then you would only be getting the output of two woofers - but in half the space...</TD></TR></TABLE>
2x the power handeling in the same air space
lower f3
tighter more accurate bass
use less space
my experience anyway
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when asked a question like this, I resort to my best car audio tool - fiberglass!</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you have the room to give up
94
2x the power handeling in the same air space
lower f3
tighter more accurate bass
use less space
my experience anyway
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when asked a question like this, I resort to my best car audio tool - fiberglass!</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you have the room to give up
94
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
2x the power handeling in the same air space</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm a bit unsure of what you mean by this one - you need double the power b/c you have double the woofers to run, but I don't see how this method would increase the mechanical or thermal power handling of a woofer.
I don't know THAT much about iso mounting because it's the dinosaur of car audio - sort of, so could you explain that one?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
lower f3
tighter more accurate bass
use less space
my experience anyway
</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is true, but something tells me that the average guy wanting 4 subs is not willing to sacrifice half of his woofer's displacement to gain some accuracy....
plus, subs today sound good enough (if you choose the right ones) and work in such small boxes that iso mounting is a thing of the past
but iso is taking the "easy" way out
2x the power handeling in the same air space</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm a bit unsure of what you mean by this one - you need double the power b/c you have double the woofers to run, but I don't see how this method would increase the mechanical or thermal power handling of a woofer.
I don't know THAT much about iso mounting because it's the dinosaur of car audio - sort of, so could you explain that one?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
lower f3
tighter more accurate bass
use less space
my experience anyway
</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is true, but something tells me that the average guy wanting 4 subs is not willing to sacrifice half of his woofer's displacement to gain some accuracy....

plus, subs today sound good enough (if you choose the right ones) and work in such small boxes that iso mounting is a thing of the past
but iso is taking the "easy" way out
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