Heat cycling Hoosiers
I got my tires mounted today. I had Melissa pick them up on her way home. what did i notice when i first saw them,, 1 tire mounted incorrectly. I had planned on heat cycling them tonight after dinner, but should i do it now with one goofy tire?
Stupid local tire shops, they ****** charge $80 to mount tires the wrong way
Now i have to go back in the morning
Should i cycle them tonight? we will be heading to Laurens for the Sediv event tomorrow..
Stupid local tire shops, they ****** charge $80 to mount tires the wrong way
Now i have to go back in the morning Should i cycle them tonight? we will be heading to Laurens for the Sediv event tomorrow..
I'd just go ahead and cycle them... besides, from the pics they don't look like they are directional or asymetrical? I take it the casing has a "this side out" marking on it?
I just realized, are we talking about the S04's or the older S03's?
Christian, who is going to a local event instead of making the long haul to Laurens... mainly b/c he's too lazy to drive 7+ hours
I just realized, are we talking about the S04's or the older S03's?
Christian, who is going to a local event instead of making the long haul to Laurens... mainly b/c he's too lazy to drive 7+ hours
Shane.. do you come through Columbia on the way to Laurens.. i think you do.. if so what time i might can get you to a tire machine to knock that out with.
I am leaving sometime around noon, helping Karl tow the trailer with all the equipment up.
Jon K
http://www.seat-time.com
I am leaving sometime around noon, helping Karl tow the trailer with all the equipment up.
Jon K
http://www.seat-time.com
They're not really directional. You can flip them on the rim, I've been doing it for years. I guess when they're stickers, it's best to have the "meaty" side on the outside, but that's really splitting hairs.
I use the 03's right side till they show wear, then flip 'em. I was told it makes no difference, other will say different.
The only way to cycle 'em is to race 'em. Street driving won't do it.
There is a procedure involved.
Tire Break-In Procedure
Proper break-in will not affect initial performance but will increase the competitive life of the tire.
The procedure can be broken down into phases.
1st phase: The initial run
2nd phase: The length of the time the tire is allowed to "cure"
The Initial Run
The first laps for the tire are critical for setting up the durability and competitive life. The first session should consist of 10-15 minutes of running. The early part of the session should be run at an easy pace, with the speed gradually increased until the end of the session. The final lap should be run at the fastest possible speed. The intent is to achieve maximum tire temp on the last lap. At this point the car should be brought in and the tires allowed to cool at a normal rate. Optimally, the tires should be removed or have the car jacked up during this cooling.
During this process, the inflation pressure should be 3-5 psi higher than you would normally use. The best progression would have the driver taking 3-5 laps to accomplish this break-in. Each lap should be approximately 2-4 seconds a lap faster than the previous lap. The goal is to have the tire temp as high as possible on the last lap without "shocking" the tire during the warm up laps. In essence, no wheelspin, late braking, or sliding. The last lap should be at, or very close, the maximum possible temperature.
"Cure" Time
After completing the initial run phase, the length of time the tire is allowed to set is possibly more important. The barest minimum for this process to be beneficial is 24 hours. (Not "the next day"). Any less than this is a waste of time. The best situation would allow a week before using the tire again.
Proper tire management is a difficult process. To accomplish this almost always requires a second set of wheels. The payoff is greatly increased competitive tire life.
The only way to cycle 'em is to race 'em. Street driving won't do it.
There is a procedure involved.
Tire Break-In Procedure
Proper break-in will not affect initial performance but will increase the competitive life of the tire.
The procedure can be broken down into phases.
1st phase: The initial run
2nd phase: The length of the time the tire is allowed to "cure"
The Initial Run
The first laps for the tire are critical for setting up the durability and competitive life. The first session should consist of 10-15 minutes of running. The early part of the session should be run at an easy pace, with the speed gradually increased until the end of the session. The final lap should be run at the fastest possible speed. The intent is to achieve maximum tire temp on the last lap. At this point the car should be brought in and the tires allowed to cool at a normal rate. Optimally, the tires should be removed or have the car jacked up during this cooling.
During this process, the inflation pressure should be 3-5 psi higher than you would normally use. The best progression would have the driver taking 3-5 laps to accomplish this break-in. Each lap should be approximately 2-4 seconds a lap faster than the previous lap. The goal is to have the tire temp as high as possible on the last lap without "shocking" the tire during the warm up laps. In essence, no wheelspin, late braking, or sliding. The last lap should be at, or very close, the maximum possible temperature.
"Cure" Time
After completing the initial run phase, the length of time the tire is allowed to set is possibly more important. The barest minimum for this process to be beneficial is 24 hours. (Not "the next day"). Any less than this is a waste of time. The best situation would allow a week before using the tire again.
Proper tire management is a difficult process. To accomplish this almost always requires a second set of wheels. The payoff is greatly increased competitive tire life.
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Good thing for you I carry the computer with me. I'm the Hoosier Dealer in the CenDiv. Here is my suggestion. You should have the tire store flip that tire around. The tires need to be mounted serial # down. It is very important you do this on sticker tires. The ruber is laid in a certain direction and if they tires are mouned upside down, you risk the belts not seating properly and possilbe delamination. Not that this is going to happen, but that is the reason you mount them serial # down. Now after you've run them, you can flip them and run them anyway you want.
As for break in, bring the tires up gradually, say 2-3 laps once up to temp, run no more than 2-3 hot laps, being careful not to slide the car or over break to cause flat spots. Then you should let them set for 24 hours, the longer the better. If that is not possible, get them in the shade and if possible off the car to get heat away from them. The goal is to bring them down to ambient temps.
For any other hoosier related issues, you can contact me at tswift@frisbyracetire.com
http://www.frisbyracetire.com
As for break in, bring the tires up gradually, say 2-3 laps once up to temp, run no more than 2-3 hot laps, being careful not to slide the car or over break to cause flat spots. Then you should let them set for 24 hours, the longer the better. If that is not possible, get them in the shade and if possible off the car to get heat away from them. The goal is to bring them down to ambient temps.
For any other hoosier related issues, you can contact me at tswift@frisbyracetire.com
http://www.frisbyracetire.com
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and yes they have "This side in" "this side out" markings on them 