im helpin this lady out with her 95 accord and i was wondering if the rotors are held on with the four bolts? and if it is then what tools do i need to get to take them out and put them back on.

 

sorry bud, the rotors are pressed on, i am not entirely sure what that entails but i am sure someone else here does.

 

The front wheel bearings have to be pressed out to replace the front rotors. This is why front brake jobs are so expensive on 90-97 accords. If the rotors are thick enough, have a shop turn then while they are on the vehicle.

To remove the rotors:

1. Loosen / remove the large axle nuts (center of the hubs) while the vehicle is on the ground.

2. Unbolt / remove the brake calipers / bracket / brake lines.

3. Separate the tie-rod ends, upper and lower ball joints with a splitting fork.

4. Remove the spindle fronm the vehicle.

5. Take them to your local machine shop where they will remove the 4 bolts on the inside, press out the wheel bearings, replace the rotors, then press the wheel bearings back in. The 4 bolts exposed when you remove the wheels hold the rotor to the stub axles / wheel bearing assembly, but again, the wheel bearings have to be pressed out to replace the rotors.

 

Can't you remove the hub/rotor assembly with a slide hammer instead of separating the tie-rod ends and splitting the upper and lower ball joints?

 

yes, you can use a slide hammer and remove the hud assembly from the bearing but once you do that it is recemended that you replace the bearing as well since you seperated the inner race from the bearing exposing the insides.

You can also unbolt the bearing from the knuckle and as long as the bearing isn't froozen in there you can remove the bearing/hub/rotor assembly. My bearing was froozen in the knuckle so I had took the knuckle assmebly with the new rotors and bearing and had them press everything out and then back together. Only cost me 25 a side to have done. Worth it IMO.

 

Dude,

Your making this way too difficult on yourself.
You can separate the tie-rod ends, upper and lower ball joints with just a few "whacks"!
Rent a tie-rod separator tool from one of the major auto parts stores (Free!) and whack to parts a few times with a small sledge hammer and you are home free!

 

Dude.... Ahhhh....Like Totally....using a tie rod separator will damage the joint, and tear the boot up. Just loosen the retaining nut and whack the point where the joint stud passes thru it's holder. It will jar loose, then remove the nut that you left on to protect the threads in case you missed with the 2lb hammer.

 

yea i can do taht but i was wondering if i have to get the rotor pressed back onto the hub and how much would it cost?

 

Just use a slide hammer as stated above to get the rotor separated from the hub. Then just repack the bearings, no need to replace them (waste of $$) - had at least two front brakes jobs sionce I've owned my car (second owner) and the bearings are fine once the rotor was removed.

Just be careful and take your time - you will be succesfull!

 

so i can do all this at home or would i have to get somthin done at a local shop?

 

if you use the slide hammer way, yes, you can do it at home. Just be carefull when reinstalling the hub into the bearing. I know it's pressed together so it has to be a really tight fit. Make sure you have it lined up correctly.

 

ok thanks everyone for helpin me. and i can rent a slide hammer at my local auto zone or o'riellys?

 

yeah, AutoZone rents them for free. Just have to put up like $90 but you get it back when you return it.

 

Yes it's an old thread...
Remove knuckle as noted above.
Get 2 bolts that are longer than the bolts that hold the bearing/hub to the knuckle, put the knuckle snugly in a vise, insert those bolts into the bearing, tap alternately on the bolts with a hammer until the bearing assembly emerges from the knuckle (a little WD-40 helps). I used old bolts from a previous suspension bushings job that I had replaced....
Once the bearing is off the knuckle the rotor replacement procedure is obvious. CLEAN (spotless) the rotor mating surfaces on the hub with a wire brush. USE a torque wrench to torque everything to spec for reassembly. The bearing attachment bolts will pull the bearing back into the knuckle as they are tightened incrementally/evenly.

 

They are not pressed, they are bolted

 

Watch Eric The Car Guy on YouTube. His instruction video about captive brake discs is the best. I just did mine using his method. WARNING the 10x1.25 bolts that secure the disc to the hub are a real bear to remove when rusted. I had to drill two out, but since I had the hub and disc in hand, it was easy with the drill press.