Question about SSAutoChrome
I searched, but only found complaints about the header cracking at the flange and boost creep issues.
I am planning to use an SSAutoChrome manifold, by cutting off the Honda B-series flange and having my Kia Mi-Tech flange welded on, and removing the wastegate flange altogether.
I am going to have it in the same "inverted" configuration that I have now:

Which will significantly reduce the stress on the turbo inlet flange. I am also using a TD05 vice a T-3 so there is several pounds less weight on it.
Now, after removing the terrible wastegate flange and tube, and inverting the manifold in this way, does anybody forsee a problem with the manifold still? Is there any place I should ask my welder to double up the welds or add bracing?
I am planning to use an SSAutoChrome manifold, by cutting off the Honda B-series flange and having my Kia Mi-Tech flange welded on, and removing the wastegate flange altogether.
I am going to have it in the same "inverted" configuration that I have now:
Which will significantly reduce the stress on the turbo inlet flange. I am also using a TD05 vice a T-3 so there is several pounds less weight on it.
Now, after removing the terrible wastegate flange and tube, and inverting the manifold in this way, does anybody forsee a problem with the manifold still? Is there any place I should ask my welder to double up the welds or add bracing?
brace everywhere you can!!!! they are very thin ss and they dont have any bracing, i had the mani on my car for a long time and i was boosting about 15psi and had a t3 but i braced it everywhere, i broke my first unbraced one in about a month snd then braced the second on to the block and also braced the turbo and wastegate to the block and it was fine, i also know several more people having no probs out of this mani. (except for the creep probs)
hope this helps you out
hope this helps you out
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teglsturbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">brace everywhere you can!!!! they are very thin ss and they dont have any bracing, </TD></TR></TABLE>
SSAC are not SS, they are chrome plated mild steel.
Unbraced tubie manifolds = broken. It's not a problem particular to SSAC, but tubies in general. If an unbraced tubie cracks = operator error.
Not defending the SSAC's collector design, build quality, ignorant placement of the wastegate port, etc... just keeping it real.
SSAC are not SS, they are chrome plated mild steel.
Unbraced tubie manifolds = broken. It's not a problem particular to SSAC, but tubies in general. If an unbraced tubie cracks = operator error.
Not defending the SSAC's collector design, build quality, ignorant placement of the wastegate port, etc... just keeping it real.
And you own a Honda. So?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">SSAC are not SS, they are chrome plated mild steel.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The auction specifically says they are made of SUS304. I don't see any negative feedbacks saying they were actually 1004 mild steel, so I will give SSAC the benefit of the doubt on that one. Plus the welds show discoloration. If they were chromed after there would be no discoloration, and if chromed before welding the chrome would have peeled off since the copper and nickel layers would have become molten while the chromium would not have.
I know you are a smart guy, where did you get this information?
Modified by beepy at 4:45 AM 7/22/2004
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">SSAC are not SS, they are chrome plated mild steel.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The auction specifically says they are made of SUS304. I don't see any negative feedbacks saying they were actually 1004 mild steel, so I will give SSAC the benefit of the doubt on that one. Plus the welds show discoloration. If they were chromed after there would be no discoloration, and if chromed before welding the chrome would have peeled off since the copper and nickel layers would have become molten while the chromium would not have.
I know you are a smart guy, where did you get this information?
Modified by beepy at 4:45 AM 7/22/2004
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beepy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I know you are a smart guy, where did you get this information?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Travis' started to rust inside the collector, I ASSumed.
I know you are a smart guy, where did you get this information?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Travis' started to rust inside the collector, I ASSumed.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Travis' started to rust inside the collector, I ASSumed.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh, okay. I won't worry then. Stainless steel can rust. They should really call is "stain resistant" steel.
Travis' started to rust inside the collector, I ASSumed.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh, okay. I won't worry then. Stainless steel can rust. They should really call is "stain resistant" steel.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">y not just use what u got already? shti looks good.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks.
The reason I am trying to get this header made is because I made my header out of mild steel before, and because of my shitty welding it has cracked twice and I am constantly fighting blown gaskets. Initially I just used a Honda B-series flange to build the header (Because the Kia Mi-Tech and the Honda B/D series have the same exhaust port spacing and port shape), but I am now getting a flange cut to my specifications. I designed a flange in AutoCAD and found a shop in Montana that will waterjet cut the flange for $35 a piece plus the cost of steel.
This new header will be in the exact same design as I have now, but it will be much better because of being stainless steel, TIG welded, and with proper flanges. If I could get something like your Rev-Hard manifolds, etc., I would, but getting something like that made as a one-off would be insanely expansive, and I don't own a TIG welder. My goal is to make 125 hp at the wheels.
Thanks.
The reason I am trying to get this header made is because I made my header out of mild steel before, and because of my shitty welding it has cracked twice and I am constantly fighting blown gaskets. Initially I just used a Honda B-series flange to build the header (Because the Kia Mi-Tech and the Honda B/D series have the same exhaust port spacing and port shape), but I am now getting a flange cut to my specifications. I designed a flange in AutoCAD and found a shop in Montana that will waterjet cut the flange for $35 a piece plus the cost of steel.
This new header will be in the exact same design as I have now, but it will be much better because of being stainless steel, TIG welded, and with proper flanges. If I could get something like your Rev-Hard manifolds, etc., I would, but getting something like that made as a one-off would be insanely expansive, and I don't own a TIG welder. My goal is to make 125 hp at the wheels.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beepy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh, okay. I won't worry then. Stainless steel can rust. They should really call is "stain resistant" steel. </TD></TR></TABLE>
False : Stainless steel, if not contaminated, will not rust.
If there where any risk of rusting, billion dollar Petrol industries wouldn't do any SS piping in their installation.
Contaminated or badly welded stainless steel will rust.
So yhea Stainless steel can rust but you'll have to weld something mild steel to it...
Kranked.
False : Stainless steel, if not contaminated, will not rust.
If there where any risk of rusting, billion dollar Petrol industries wouldn't do any SS piping in their installation.
Contaminated or badly welded stainless steel will rust.
So yhea Stainless steel can rust but you'll have to weld something mild steel to it...
Kranked.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">False : Stainless steel, if not contaminated, will not rust.
If there where any risk of rusting, billion dollar Petrol industries wouldn't do any SS piping in their installation. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You just keep on believing that.
It is true that stainless steel will not rust through. But it can still form a thin layer of surface rust. I won't bother with the chemistry explanation.
If there where any risk of rusting, billion dollar Petrol industries wouldn't do any SS piping in their installation. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You just keep on believing that.
It is true that stainless steel will not rust through. But it can still form a thin layer of surface rust. I won't bother with the chemistry explanation.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beepy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You just keep on believing that.
It is true that stainless steel will not rust through. But it can still form a thin layer of surface rust. I won't bother with the chemistry explanation.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ins't that more along the lines of corrosion
You just keep on believing that.
It is true that stainless steel will not rust through. But it can still form a thin layer of surface rust. I won't bother with the chemistry explanation.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ins't that more along the lines of corrosion
Sweetness. That would be the most power produced by the Kia 1.8 liter that I have seen or heard of so far. Definately the largest turbo I have seen on any Kia. (There were lots of 1994-97 Sephias with turbos but those cars had the Mazda BP so it wasn't too hard)
And you used an inverted manifold. That makes me feel good. It looks like you had to make a custom radiator or fit in a Honda 1/2 rad? I would have had to do the same thing if I had the compressor on the passenger side like that, which is why I ended up with a complicated intercooler system.
And you used an inverted manifold. That makes me feel good. It looks like you had to make a custom radiator or fit in a Honda 1/2 rad? I would have had to do the same thing if I had the compressor on the passenger side like that, which is why I ended up with a complicated intercooler system.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beepy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sweetness. That would be the most power produced by the Kia 1.8 liter that I have seen or heard of so far. Definately the largest turbo I have seen on any Kia. (There were lots of 1994-97 Sephias with turbos but those cars had the Mazda BP so it wasn't too hard)
And you used an inverted manifold. That makes me feel good. It looks like you had to make a custom radiator or fit in a Honda 1/2 rad? I would have had to do the same thing if I had the compressor on the passenger side like that, which is why I ended up with a complicated intercooler system.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes we used a honda radiator on the driver side and re-did the hosing and the radiator fittings on the lower block
And you used an inverted manifold. That makes me feel good. It looks like you had to make a custom radiator or fit in a Honda 1/2 rad? I would have had to do the same thing if I had the compressor on the passenger side like that, which is why I ended up with a complicated intercooler system.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes we used a honda radiator on the driver side and re-did the hosing and the radiator fittings on the lower block
The guys over at StreetKiaz and K-Rev have tons of questions. Do you suppose you could give more information on this Spectra build?
Did the engine use forged pistons?
What did you do for fuel management?
Can you fabricate this header again?
Did the engine use forged pistons?
What did you do for fuel management?
Can you fabricate this header again?



Phew. When people ask me why I bought a Kia I say, "It cost $8000." When they ask why I turboed it I say, "To see if I could."