1982 Brake trouble
I am looking to buy an old accord to fix up and make as a winter driver. I found one for $75 and the Engine and drive line is in great shape and the drums, rotors, wheels bearings, pads and shoes look good, but the hydrolic brake system is totaly shot. When I hit the brakes and the engine is running the engine RPM imediatly drops and it begins puffing white smoke LIKE CRAZY!! This means brake fluid is getting into the engine. But is the brake booster bad, or is it just the master cylinder?
Also I am not too sure if the metering valve is good, the outside looks a bit coroded. Where can I pick one of these up. I figure if I have to pay less than $300 to fix the brakes then the car is worth buying. I'll do the work myself so that gives me a lot of money to go twords brake parts.
Thanks!
Also I am not too sure if the metering valve is good, the outside looks a bit coroded. Where can I pick one of these up. I figure if I have to pay less than $300 to fix the brakes then the car is worth buying. I'll do the work myself so that gives me a lot of money to go twords brake parts.
Thanks!
Sounds like the master cylinder AND brake booster need replacement. If the master cyl is leaking into the brake booster, that could be getting sucked into the vacuum line and making it to the carb. I don't know if that's possible, but since you are seeing white smoke when you step on the brakes, I can only assume.
Something to think about, if brake fluid is getting into the vacuum lines (pop the one off the brake booster and apply brake and see if it still smokes) you might need to replace some eaten-away rubber vacuum lines down the road.
But try taking the vacuum off the brake booster, you may need to plug the hose on the engine side to keep it running with the loss of vacuum, but see if it still does it after you remove the line.
Good luck!
Modified by IanCT at 10:41 PM 7/22/2004
Something to think about, if brake fluid is getting into the vacuum lines (pop the one off the brake booster and apply brake and see if it still smokes) you might need to replace some eaten-away rubber vacuum lines down the road.
But try taking the vacuum off the brake booster, you may need to plug the hose on the engine side to keep it running with the loss of vacuum, but see if it still does it after you remove the line.
Good luck!
Modified by IanCT at 10:41 PM 7/22/2004
Thanks!! You were right. It was both the master cylinder and the brake booster. The brake booster works but leaks out vacuum when the brakes are depressed.
I fixed up the whole brake system save for the brake booster and everything works like a well oiled machine. I have just plugged the brake booster vacuum line for now and am using the brakes non powered. This car doesn't really need the brake booster... nor power steering for that matter.
Once I get the engine running smoothly I'll put a new brake booster in it.
I fixed up the whole brake system save for the brake booster and everything works like a well oiled machine. I have just plugged the brake booster vacuum line for now and am using the brakes non powered. This car doesn't really need the brake booster... nor power steering for that matter.
Once I get the engine running smoothly I'll put a new brake booster in it.
But don't you love the ability to turn the wheel with your pinky? 
I was amazed when I got my first car, an 81 Accord, and how light the
steering was. A little TOO easy if you ask me.

I was amazed when I got my first car, an 81 Accord, and how light the
steering was. A little TOO easy if you ask me.

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