UPDATE: NAB20C5's R is still not running correctly...any tech suggestions?
Well this problem happened like in Aug. the day of the ATL ITR meet up and my Hytech header was received that week and installed the previous night before...the problem occurred after 20 minutes of driving and continues to occur after 20 minutes or during normal opperating temperature of the motor...
approx. 20 minutes...the car will have no throttle response and when throttle is moved the motor will seem to want to "die"....I've changed out the coil, the ignition, the ignitor, the dist. housing, pretty much everything dealing w/ a spark...the fuel injectors are working...
the only suggestion I've had was change the wiring harness...but i want to make sure that's the problem, before i fork out a good bit of $$$ for a new wiring harness...the suggestion came from a friend of mine who had a butchered harness in his EG and the car worked great once the new harness was put in...my concern is that I will have to "butcher" the new harness anyway...1) the RC injector use OBD 1 plugs 2) the O2 needs to be extended for the O2 bung on the Hytech...unless there is a way to "re-pin" the wires from the new harness to the old OBD2 plugs...anyone?
well again all suggestions will be greatly appreciated, and I do have some what of a time limit due to the fact i would like to make it to yet another ATL dyno/ITR meet...wish me luck and sorry I've been neglecting the board due to chronic R depression....Eric
approx. 20 minutes...the car will have no throttle response and when throttle is moved the motor will seem to want to "die"....I've changed out the coil, the ignition, the ignitor, the dist. housing, pretty much everything dealing w/ a spark...the fuel injectors are working...
the only suggestion I've had was change the wiring harness...but i want to make sure that's the problem, before i fork out a good bit of $$$ for a new wiring harness...the suggestion came from a friend of mine who had a butchered harness in his EG and the car worked great once the new harness was put in...my concern is that I will have to "butcher" the new harness anyway...1) the RC injector use OBD 1 plugs 2) the O2 needs to be extended for the O2 bung on the Hytech...unless there is a way to "re-pin" the wires from the new harness to the old OBD2 plugs...anyone?
well again all suggestions will be greatly appreciated, and I do have some what of a time limit due to the fact i would like to make it to yet another ATL dyno/ITR meet...wish me luck and sorry I've been neglecting the board due to chronic R depression....Eric
I would say just recheck all of the rewired areas o2 sensor injectors etc and also TPS Map sensors etc. Were there any problems with the ignitor and coil? I had a problem were My coil fried, ignitor went with it, sent a pulse back into the ECU and fried a section of the ECU So we couldnt get it started, maybe its something similar but just not as bad, try switching out the ECU to test for a possible problem, Also Last idea, maybe it could be a problem with one of the sensors in the distributor itself in the sub assly? Try switching that out also If you have anyone with a GSR ITR or SI you can swap them
Just a few random thoughts, Good Luck
Just a few random thoughts, Good Luck
Well no probelm w/ the TPE or the map, I switched out the entired T/B w/ a 2000 ITR and the car had the sme problem 20 min. later, the entire dist. was replaced <under warranty...thanks RATEDR aka TJ>...so i'm pretty sure there is no problem w/ the coil and ignition, ignitor etc. I have a FC, and switched out the ECU w/ another ITR <thanks apexiITR aka Hurrell> and again same problem 20 min. later...so my theory is that w/ all the cuts in the harness is maybe shorting out when the car warms up?...again just a theory...but the checking the O2 and the other cuts have been done, but i really don't know what else to do to the re wiring and connections as far as insulation is concerned...thanks Eric
Hmmm, If the wires are soldered and insulated correctly, there shouldnt be a problem with them shorting out. Maybe an idea to try before buying a new harness would be to redo all of the connections that were made, solder all connections and use that liquid plastic that drys into a rubber coating (Sold in Home depots) then cover that with shrink wrap. If done correctly there shouldnt be a problem with shorting out.
ahh...i guess solder the connections and re do all te connections to correct way...hmm...do you think doing this to the old harness will be suffiecient enough or just go w/ the new harness and do it to that?...thanks Eric...<---silly me
Save the money and try this first, I always solder my connections and follow the above procedure, No point in spending tons of $$$ on a harness then finding out its not the problem.
...I'd say try TypeRmsm's advise first, with the addition of making sure that all your engine/tranny grounds are clean and secure... Had a simular problem on a SR20DET and an additional Auto Zone ground strap cleared up all the problems...
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Trust me, Eric's Fing car is a bitch!!! had me stumped on the side of I-85 in ATL for many hours on some random Sat. I did swap the FC for a stock ECU, problem is still there.
Any and all inputs from this board are warmly welcome. I'm just as curious as Eric to get this beast running. Will surely put down some nice #'s.
Any and all inputs from this board are warmly welcome. I'm just as curious as Eric to get this beast running. Will surely put down some nice #'s.
Just a thought.. but does your ECU fuse ever pop?
I had a problem with my EG where if I went around a turn hard the car would die. Turns out a part of the O2 sensor wire was touching a heatshield and it would ground out, causing the fuse to pop.
Just a suggestion..
If needed, I have a brand new in the box ITR motor harness.
I had a problem with my EG where if I went around a turn hard the car would die. Turns out a part of the O2 sensor wire was touching a heatshield and it would ground out, causing the fuse to pop.
Just a suggestion..
If needed, I have a brand new in the box ITR motor harness.
Thanks, for all the suggestions, and Jack ha ha...you will be one of the first to know once the probem is fixed...well plans are to solder all the connections tommorrow night and i'll keep everyone posted, thanks again..ERic
have u checked the fuses? Something similar happened to me...it ended up being that the secondary o2 sensor was shorting out on the chassis, causing my car to wanting to die during normal speed. That might not be your problem, but hopefully this can be of help. Check the VSS fuse and VSS.
[Modified by Badboy01GSR, 11:07 PM 11/25/2001]
[Modified by Badboy01GSR, 11:07 PM 11/25/2001]
I don't run the secondary O2 anymore..b/c i changed out the ECU....but all the fuses did look good, but i'll check those as well...but I don't believe the fuses are the problem b/c the car would run for 20 min and then start cutting out right?...or am i wrong on this accusation?...ERic
sounds like TPS to me. Try driving without it hooked up and that is exactly what happens. Dont ask how I know that
well i dont' believe it's the TPS b/c i changed out the entire T/B from another R and the same problem occurred..thanks Eric
i personally think it had something to do with the fact that yak touched your car....i have seen what happens when he gets his hands on things.....
i personally think it had something to do with the fact that yak touched your car....i have seen what happens when he gets his hands on things.....

i personally think it had something to do with the fact that yak touched your car....i have seen what happens when he gets his hands on things.....
Chad you mean like this
Chad you mean like this

i personally think it had something to do with the fact that yak touched your car....i have seen what happens when he gets his hands on things.....
Chad you mean like this
Chad you mean like this

why i believe its not the tps is because it happends 20 mins after he's driving so i would rule that out cuz if it was it would happend all the time. im assuming its prolly a heat dependent problem. just a thought.
why i believe its not the tps is because it happends 20 mins after he's driving so i would rule that out cuz if it was it would happend all the time. im assuming its prolly a heat dependent problem. just a thought.
I forgot more about hondas then you will ever know....
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: hop,skip, and a jump from the city,, new friggin york, USA
what ecu are you running? any codes? for instance, i'm going through a similiar problem now with my car. i have a p28 and i get a iac code, and the iac itself is good, as is the voltage. from experience, sounds like tps or map wiring to me.



