The past two roll pins were a bitch and a half to get out, even with the right sized punch.

I'm sitting here with a solid pin and questioning using it.

Should it be obvious to me? ~Because it's not.

 

should be fine as long as the retaining clip is on covering both openings.

 

IDK, aluminum is pretty weak and thats a high stress area. that is a tiny AL pin to transmit all that force. Do it right and use the steel pin IMO, its not hard to get out with the proper sized punch.

 

ARe you knocking the pins in/out from the top of the engine bay? That is the trick.

-PHiZ

 

I put the standard pin in it simply because it works somewhat like a spring.

I'm interested though PHiZ, how do you knock it out from above? Isn't the transmission in the way?

 

Put some anti-seize compound on the pin before you reinstall it. A solid pin, especially made of aluminum, will give you sloppy shifting.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .brad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I put the standard pin in it simply because it works somewhat like a spring.

I'm interested though PHiZ, how do you knock it out from above? Isn't the transmission in the way?</TD></TR></TABLE>

First I disconnect the stabalizer bar, then I can move then I can rotate the shifter mechansim clockwise, maybe 15-30 degrees. Then I electrical tape my punch into a socket, and put all my extensions and cheater bars together, to make about a foot and a half extension. Then I go in through the top.

The lower tranny mount has to be manuvered around, but my method lets you really swind a hammer.

-PHiZ

I use SAE punches too, because that's all I could find, so I have to switch punches mid way through, but

 

impact gun, 1 second and its out.