Anyone with Mugen full bushings?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid ctr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Much cheaper to just piece a kit together with misc. ES and Prothane bushings</TD></TR></TABLE>
It is not worth it ?
Use the search function to look up stuff about Prothane/Energy Suspension Urethane Bushings. You'll fine more information than you ever dreamed of.
Mugen/Spoon Bushings are nice b/c they are still rubber like stock, but stiffer. You don't deal w/ all the drawbacks of urethane.
Mugen/Spoon Bushings are nice b/c they are still rubber like stock, but stiffer. You don't deal w/ all the drawbacks of urethane.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rain_man »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Use the search function to look up stuff about Prothane/Energy Suspension Urethane Bushings. You'll fine more information than you ever dreamed of.
Mugen/Spoon Bushings are nice b/c they are still rubber like stock, but stiffer. You don't deal w/ all the drawbacks of urethane.</TD></TR></TABLE>
On installation, those prothane bushings have any different compare to those normal stock/Mugen rubber bushings on ITR? Will those urethane bushings has some weird noise or too hard for street use?
Mugen/Spoon Bushings are nice b/c they are still rubber like stock, but stiffer. You don't deal w/ all the drawbacks of urethane.</TD></TR></TABLE>
On installation, those prothane bushings have any different compare to those normal stock/Mugen rubber bushings on ITR? Will those urethane bushings has some weird noise or too hard for street use?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bcrl »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1)On installation, those prothane bushings have any different compare to those normal stock/Mugen rubber bushings on ITR?
2)Will those urethane bushings has some weird noise or b) too hard for street use?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
1) No
2) Yes
b) possibly
1)On installation, those prothane bushings have any different compare to those normal stock/Mugen rubber bushings on ITR?
2)Will those urethane bushings has some weird noise or b) too hard for street use?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
1) No
2) Yes
b) possibly
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid ctr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Much cheaper to just piece a kit together with misc. ES and Prothane bushings</TD></TR></TABLE>
Poly binds. The suspension doesnt move in just one axis.
Poly binds. The suspension doesnt move in just one axis.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RagingAngel »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1)On installation, those prothane bushings have any different compare to those normal stock/Mugen rubber bushings on ITR?
2)Will those urethane bushings has some weird noise or b) too hard for street use?
1) No
2) Yes
b) possibly</TD></TR></TABLE>
I should go for Mugen/Spoon bushings instead of urethane?
1)On installation, those prothane bushings have any different compare to those normal stock/Mugen rubber bushings on ITR?
2)Will those urethane bushings has some weird noise or b) too hard for street use?
1) No
2) Yes
b) possibly</TD></TR></TABLE>
I should go for Mugen/Spoon bushings instead of urethane?
https://honda-tech.com/zerouser...29103 - this guy installed a mugen bushing set, PM him maybe?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Poly binds. The suspension doesnt move in just one axis.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm pretty sure this is only a problem for the rear trailing arm bushing. For every other joint, poly bushings are fine (excepting the squeeking problem) because the joint only moves in one axis. The original poster was asking about converting all the bushings to Mugen, not just the trailing arm ones.
BTW, I only have poly (Prothane) bushings for my sway bars, but I've had them in there for years and have never heard any squeeking. Just be sure to use plenty of the included bushing grease and it should be fine.
I'm pretty sure this is only a problem for the rear trailing arm bushing. For every other joint, poly bushings are fine (excepting the squeeking problem) because the joint only moves in one axis. The original poster was asking about converting all the bushings to Mugen, not just the trailing arm ones.
BTW, I only have poly (Prothane) bushings for my sway bars, but I've had them in there for years and have never heard any squeeking. Just be sure to use plenty of the included bushing grease and it should be fine.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dwolsten »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">because the joint only moves in one axis. The original poster was asking about converting all the bushings to Mugen, not just the trailing arm ones.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Go outside, put your car on jacks, take the wheels off and move your suspension up through its range of motion. The LCA's do not move in one axis only.
Go outside, put your car on jacks, take the wheels off and move your suspension up through its range of motion. The LCA's do not move in one axis only.
stock bushings for street is enough? bulllshit!
if you drive aggressively at all, or drag at all, lets say wheel hop!
get some ES motor mounts and be done with it, you wont regret them
if you drive aggressively at all, or drag at all, lets say wheel hop!
get some ES motor mounts and be done with it, you wont regret them
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Azcheron »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock bushings for street is enough? bulllshit!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Uh... no. Stock bushings are fine for street use, or even track use.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you drive aggressively at all, or drag at all, lets say wheel hop!</TD></TR></TABLE>
He didnt say anything about drag...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get some ES motor mounts and be done with it, you wont regret them</TD></TR></TABLE>
wtf? The topic was suspension bushings.
Uh... no. Stock bushings are fine for street use, or even track use.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you drive aggressively at all, or drag at all, lets say wheel hop!</TD></TR></TABLE>
He didnt say anything about drag...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get some ES motor mounts and be done with it, you wont regret them</TD></TR></TABLE>
wtf? The topic was suspension bushings.
I have full Mugen bushings in my ITR. I use it almost only on the track. The Mugen bushings retain the full motion of the rear trailing arm, and stiffen the other bushings that have simpler motion. I have rear trailing arm, rear compensator (toe) arm, rear sway bar (came with Mugen rear bar), and spherical bearing in my Advance Design coil-over lower damper bush. I use stock upper shock mount ITR bushings drilled for the Advance Design dampers, as they are very stiff. At the front, I have the rear Mugen bushing for the front LCA and the Mugen lower shock bushing, and Orijin front LCA spherical (hard metal) bushing, as well as Orijin front UCA "poly" style bushings. When you move the suspension around as RJ said without the dampers and springs, you can see that poly bushings everywhere would bind, as motion is complex for several pieces, but not all. Mugen bushings are not that much stiffer than stock, maybe 40-50%, but an improvement for sure. They look a whole lot like the original bushings, and must be made using some of the same tooling, just higher durometer rubber, except for the rear compensator arm bushings that actually allow more motion than stock before they bind. I forgot to order the front sway bar bushings, and these would benefit from a change as well. You are in for a lot of labour, as in completely take the entire front and rear suspension off the car!
The Orijin spherical feel very good and give great driver control. I have not found them to be harsh at all, at least not noticeably harsh compared to my springs and dampers, which provide the most harshness of any part you can change. Changing all the bushings is quite a pain, as they are hard to press out without the proper dies. I am happy I changed the bushings, but it is not where I would spend the first money. It is just that there are not too many more suspension mods I could make, so bushings came into sight. If I were doing it again, I would buy these ( for the track only though) by Technica Sports:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=907688
The Orijin spherical feel very good and give great driver control. I have not found them to be harsh at all, at least not noticeably harsh compared to my springs and dampers, which provide the most harshness of any part you can change. Changing all the bushings is quite a pain, as they are hard to press out without the proper dies. I am happy I changed the bushings, but it is not where I would spend the first money. It is just that there are not too many more suspension mods I could make, so bushings came into sight. If I were doing it again, I would buy these ( for the track only though) by Technica Sports:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=907688
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by descartesfool »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have full Mugen bushings in my ITR. I use it almost only on the track. The Mugen bushings retain the full motion of the rear trailing arm, and stiffen the other bushings that have simpler motion. I have rear trailing arm, rear compensator (toe) arm, rear sway bar (came with Mugen rear bar), and spherical bearing in my Advance Design coil-over lower damper bush. I use stock upper shock mount ITR bushings drilled for the Advance Design dampers, as they are very stiff. At the front, I have the rear Mugen bushing for the front LCA and the Mugen lower shock bushing, and Orijin front LCA spherical (hard metal) bushing, as well as Orijin front UCA "poly" style bushings. When you move the suspension around as RJ said without the dampers and springs, you can see that poly bushings everywhere would bind, as motion is complex for several pieces, but not all. Mugen bushings are not that much stiffer than stock, maybe 40-50%, but an improvement for sure. They look a whole lot like the original bushings, and must be made using some of the same tooling, just higher durometer rubber, except for the rear compensator arm bushings that actually allow more motion than stock before they bind. I forgot to order the front sway bar bushings, and these would benefit from a change as well. You are in for a lot of labour, as in completely take the entire front and rear suspension off the car!
The Orijin spherical feel very good and give great driver control. I have not found them to be harsh at all, at least not noticeably harsh compared to my springs and dampers, which provide the most harshness of any part you can change. Changing all the bushings is quite a pain, as they are hard to press out without the proper dies. I am happy I changed the bushings, but it is not where I would spend the first money. It is just that there are not too many more suspension mods I could make, so bushings came into sight. If I were doing it again, I would buy these ( for the track only though) by Technica Sports:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=907688</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for your information.
For street use, i should stick with stock bushing if anything breaks, right?
The Orijin spherical feel very good and give great driver control. I have not found them to be harsh at all, at least not noticeably harsh compared to my springs and dampers, which provide the most harshness of any part you can change. Changing all the bushings is quite a pain, as they are hard to press out without the proper dies. I am happy I changed the bushings, but it is not where I would spend the first money. It is just that there are not too many more suspension mods I could make, so bushings came into sight. If I were doing it again, I would buy these ( for the track only though) by Technica Sports:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=907688</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for your information.
For street use, i should stick with stock bushing if anything breaks, right?
I have nearly a full set (upper/lower/front/rear) but havent installed them yet...i got them for free but at the moment most OE bushings are ok so i'll wait awhile!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mugenracer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have nearly a full set (upper/lower/front/rear) but havent installed them yet...i got them for free but at the moment most OE bushings are ok so i'll wait awhile!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
cool ...
cool ...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mugenracer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have nearly a full set (upper/lower/front/rear) but havent installed them yet...i got them for free </TD></TR></TABLE>
where can i get them for fRee?
where can i get them for fRee?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MaskedDC4 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
where can i get them for fRee?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
where can i get them for fRee?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mugenracer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have nearly a full set (upper/lower/front/rear) but havent installed them yet...i got them for free but at the moment most OE bushings are ok so i'll wait awhile!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
just so you know I envy you
</TD></TR></TABLE>
just so you know I envy you
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young noob #2
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Jul 7, 2008 06:43 AM



