Finally some progress was accomplished on my project CRX. The cage built by GOTO:Racing.

I highly recommend them if you need a cage built in the California Bay Area.



The first gen CRXs have a real problem with room for the driver. The Nascar door bars help provide a lot more room over standard x-braces.



Here you can see just how far out the Nascar door bars come out.

 

Looks really good!

 

So looking at their site that cage would probably set me back about $1800...is hat about right? Looks good by the way!

-Nick

 

how much u pay for the cage ?

 

for the cage!!!

 

I'm surprised you wouldn't want the 2 rear bars extending farther to the back of the car.

Otherwise, it looks very nice.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kedwards &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm surprised you wouldn't want the 2 rear bars extending farther to the back of the car.

Otherwise, it looks very nice.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not sure there is much important to tie in back any further on the 2G CRX (this is a 2nd Gen no?). Where they went w/ the mount points is right where the UCA ties into the body.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phat-S &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
this is a 2nd Gen no?.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Looking at the door handles, etc. this is on a 1st gen CRX.

Some of the early Autopower cages for these cars actually ran the rear down tubes to the frame behind the shock mounts but in a real hit those frame members will still bend easily and transmitmore shell damage farther forward. I speak from experience with this rear mount on my '86 ITA CRX that required a rear clip up to the B pillar. That rear bar actually bent becasue it has a box in it by design and let more damage go forward. My body man/CRX racer friend actually suggested routing the rear down tubes to the shock mount not only for chassis structure and suspension reinforcement but to allow the rear arear to be more of a crush zone before it gets to the stronger cage structured area. Steve's comment was that while tha back end may look worse, it will keep the actual damage farther back and be easier to fix while keeping the rear necessary working part of the car stronger.

Also, Is it just me or am I seeing a recent trend for main hoops getting narrower? I have seen several recently where the main hoops were several inches or more inside the B-pillars. I have always tried to get the cage structure out as far out to the sides as possible just to give more internal room.

 

Project DC2: Pricing is on the GoTo:Racing web page http://www.gotoracing.com This was the delux cage with a few extras.


CRX Lee: The reason the main hoop doesn't follow the b-piller is that the cage is required to attach to the floor at a 90 degree angle (give or take 10 degrees). Following the shape of the car would require the main hoop to attach to the floor at an angle smaller then 80 degrees.

 

Just out of curiousity, the design of the front horizontal bar (not sure what the technical name is) that's by your knees, is there a reason it's so low? Maybe I'm just not as educated in 6-point cage design, but I would think it would be better to have it higher up, so as to maybe better protect your legs in a front-end or side collision. Or is it lower for a lower CoG?

 

The official terminology for that bar is the "knee knocker". Its actually in a good position to transfer loads from a side impact. The effect that bar has on CoG in minimal.

 

Thanks Lee, I didn't see the indentation for the handles and I thought I looked pretty closely at the other aspects to tell. They look pretty similar without their clothes on - except for that vent-like thing on the backside of the b-pillar cover plate (I thought my car had that too and I just never noticed it).

 

Lee,
I believe a lot of the new custom cages are narrowing the gap on the B-pillar...

Any questions? Ask "Metalworker". I know nothin'...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RineRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
CRX Lee: The reason the main hoop doesn't follow the b-piller is that the cage is required to attach to the floor at a 90 degree angle (give or take 10 degrees). Following the shape of the car would require the main hoop to attach to the floor at an angle smaller then 80 degrees.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually the cage doesn't have to to to the lower floor at all, it can go up on the step shelf behind it as well (there is a lot you can do with 100 sq. inches of mounting plate as well) which creates more room and also gets the cage wider and closer to the B-pillars. My comment was not based on the side pics showing the base several inches forward of the B-pillar but from the rear pics showing theat there would be several inches of intrusion from a side impact before the main hoop side leg made contact.

The white car pic from farther down this thread is closer to what I was thinking of, have used, and am used to seeing where the main hoop reaches farther out and all but makes contact with the shell. The rule of on IT cage not being allowed to touch the shell otehr than the 8 welded spots means that only a thickness of a piece of paper need to provably present. I have seen several lately outside this mold and didn't know if there was a design reason I am missing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Lee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The white car pic from farther down this thread is closer to what I was thinking of, have used, and am used to seeing where the main hoop reaches farther out and all but makes contact with the shell. The rule of on IT cage not being allowed to touch the shell otehr than the 8 welded spots means that only a thickness of a piece of paper need to provably present. I have seen several lately outside this mold and didn't know if there was a design reason I am missing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

We actually try to make contact when possible. Our inspectors used to interpret the rule as not actually being in contact also, but that has changed. Most of the cars I've done lately, we have had to wedge the hoop and A-pillar bars in place. We do it for anti-intusion, getting the driver as far away from the cage as possible, and a little stiffness. I'm not sure that there is much stiffness gained, but it sure doesn't hurt.
The one thing I would like to see cage builders get away from is mounting the plates just to the floor boards. They are one of the weakest areas of a car. You really should mount too, or tie in too the rocker boxes, rear bulkheads, and such. That is one of the reasons I think that welding your bolt-in to the floor just isn't near as strong as a proper custom cage.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by metalworker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The one thing I would like to see cage builders get away from is mounting the plates just to the floor boards. They are one of the weakest areas of a car. You really should mount too, or tie in too the rocker boxes, rear bulkheads, and such. That is one of the reasons I think that welding your bolt-in to the floor just isn't near as strong as a proper custom cage. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Amen.

 

anybody saw the aftermath of Marko Martin crash in WRC Argentina. Now that is a brutal crash and the cage amazingly safe the driver without any injuries.

Anybody have pictures of FIA WRC cages? The few I've seen don't have cross bar and some of them the main hoop is not really one continuous hoop. REally intrigued by their design and I'm a civil engineer (dealing with beam and trusses everyday).

 

For all those that asked about pricing, the prices are all based apon the basic minimum requirements(~$1200 depending on cost of materials at that time). You can then add elements to the cage at fixed prices, which are listed on the page. Anything extra that is not listed is billed at an hourly rate. Typically, the cages end up costing between $1400-$2000 after upgrades. Some upgrades we highly reccomend if you are going road racing, and we will let you know what those are. A cage like this one can be put in most hondas for about $1800.

Our cages are completely custom, and we will be anything you want as long as it is legal for your class, and we deem it safe.

The web page is down right now, but check back for more details, or email us at goto_racing@hotmail.com.

http://www.gotoracing.com