searched and searched...

anyone know if they make one? I thought SRR did, but, now their site no longer works/exists.

 

Check out exospeed.com. They sell SRR stuff and Will is a great guy to work with. They offer some trick spherical tie rod ends, which could be mounted underneath instead of over, which I think would eliminate some bump steer by keeping the tie rod more level, right? Check legality for the series you race in first, though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Driven &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
anyone know if they make one? I thought SRR did, but, now their site no longer works/exists.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Please post if you find one as I am interested. SCCA limited prep allow bump steerig technically if you have the right parts and now there is large debate about what they will allow.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Lee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Please post if you find one as I am interested. SCCA limited prep allow bump steerig technically if you have the right parts and now there is large debate about what they will allow.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Crap... i was hoping you knew!! I figured if anyone knew, you would!

I'll keep looking!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lyonel 13H4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check out exospeed.com. They sell SRR stuff and Will is a great guy to work with. They offer some trick spherical tie rod ends, which could be mounted underneath instead of over, which I think would eliminate some bump steer by keeping the tie rod more level, right? Check legality for the series you race in first, though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I swore there was something closer to this though:




you'd figure they would work on almost any steering rack with the right thread pitch and relatively close track...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Driven &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Crap... i was hoping you knew!! I figured if anyone knew, you would!
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do people make conical inserts that that can bolt into the tie rod taper into the steering arm? We looked into getting a properly tapered drill bit or ream to cut the same taper in with the wide part at the top. This would allow you to swap a stock tie rod onto the the bottom facing upwards instead of down. It is a big arguement now if hein ends are legal in Limited Prep (currently they seem to not be) but they may be in the future.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Driven &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">



</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is it just me and my fading memory or it this thing incorrectly installed thus causing more bump steer problems for a lowered car? Doesn't the stock tie rod bolt on the top side of the upright and proper bump steering on a lowered car would move it to the bottom side of the arm then a farther distance away likely?

I don't have my car here as a reference but this installation seems really screwed up to cause more problem and not solve any.

 

maybe the car is lifted

 

Your memory is not fading that would certainly introduce more bump steer I would think seeing as the problem would be amplified by lifting the tie rod end to an even higher angle then it already is on a lowered honda.

You would definitely need it to attach on the bottom side of the steering knuckle and not the top to improve the situation.

 

a crx turns so easily you dont need a bump steer kit.

 

ha! My tie rod ends are below the knuckle from the factory!

 

Well aren't you special... just like someone to brag when they're better off then the rest of us Just kidding of course

So with your tie rod attached to the underside of the knuckle from the factory, how is the angle of the tie rod (assuming you are lowered at all)? does the tie rod still angle up or is it pretty level?

 

I believe Competition Engineering makes a setup like this. Its a heim joint on a chromoly body.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22avid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well aren't you special... just like someone to brag when they're better off then the rest of us Just kidding of course

So with your tie rod attached to the underside of the knuckle from the factory, how is the angle of the tie rod (assuming you are lowered at all)? does the tie rod still angle up or is it pretty level?</TD></TR></TABLE>

well, my Accord is stock, and I haven't really checked to see how level it is with the car on the ground...




Modified by LX4CYL at 6:47 PM 7/19/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SBE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a crx turns so easily you dont need a bump steer kit.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bump steer has nothing to do with steering effort, it has to do with geometry, specifically changes in toe as the suspension goes through its motion.

 

not to sound stupid, but what is the benifit to mounting the tierods to the underside of the spindle? is this only benificial to track cars or street cars too?

 

In order to accomplish zero bump the tie rod must fall between an imaginary line that runs from the upper ball joint through the lower ball joint and an imaginary line that runs through the upper a-arm pivot and the lower control arm pivot. In addition, the centerline of the tie rod must intersect with the instant center created by the upper a-arm and the lower control arm.

If you wan't to know exactly how all these things work, buy Milliken!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ZoRG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In order to accomplish zero bump the tie rod must fall between an imaginary line that runs from the upper ball joint through the lower ball joint and an imaginary line that runs through the upper a-arm pivot and the lower control arm pivot. In addition, the centerline of the tie rod must intersect with the instant center created by the upper a-arm and the lower control arm.

If you wan't to know exactly how all these things work, buy Milliken!</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm glad you posted that and saved me the trouble of trying to explain it with just words. Now everybody look at that diagram, and keep in mind that, on most of our cars, the tie rod is between the upper and lower arms. With that in mind, think about this: when you lower the car, what happens to the instant center. With that in mind, think about this: if the centerline of the tie rod needs to pass through the new instant center, are you going to need to raise or lower the outer end?

 

bumpsteer is car/setup specific , how can a off the shelf kit be right for you ?

just curious if any of you guys have even measured your bumpsteer before assuming that you have issues with it....

oh and the Competition eng. stuff is for drag only , they advise against it for roadracing , at least their tubular LCA's anyway...

 

anyone ??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doctor CorteZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just curious if any of you guys have even measured your bumpsteer before assuming that you have issues with it....</TD></TR></TABLE>
i never said i had an issue or was looking to fix something that wasn't broken.

was just curious.

and... what's stopping someone from bolting the tierod upside down (outside of the issue when the wheels are lifted off the ground and the tierod supporting the knuckle).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Steve91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I believe Competition Engineering makes a setup like this. Its a heim joint on a chromoly body. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Driven &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what's stopping someone from bolting the tierod upside down </TD></TR></TABLE>

You'd have to drill out the hub and use a different tie rod end.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You'd have to drill out the hub and use a different tie rod end.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yep , exactly.