my compressor was making some awfull noise.. so i decided to change it.

i got a used one, from a junkyard.. i watched them clip the lines, and vac. the system, and gave me the compressor.. so i know its not contaminated.

i took it to my shop, recovered the R12 and evac'ed the system.. no leaks found.

my question..

i got the new fittings that came in the 134A kit.. put them on, changed compressor o rings, and charged the systems with correct weights and oil.

however my high side is about 110, and low is 80... also the clutch is cycling about ever good long 2 seconds.. back and forth... back and forth.

i plan on changing the dryer.. but would this make my low side pressure go down?

 

im thinking bad compressor or bad expnsion valve but im also really sick right now and not fully thinking.

 

fast cycles like that usually means a plugged fixed orifice tube/TXV.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kamin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">fast cycles like that usually means a plugged fixed orifice tube/TXV. </TD></TR></TABLE>
The high side presure would read high, wouldn't it?

 

it may spike but ive never seen it read high from a plugged FOT.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kamin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">fast cycles like that usually means a plugged fixed orifice tube/TXV. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ive heard that honda's dont use orfice tubes.. it would be the TXV.. thermo expansion valve..

its up in the evaporator.. and damn.. thats a bitch..

you guys dont' think its the reciver/dryer huh? sure would be alot easier.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Built B16A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive heard that honda's dont use orfice tubes.. it would be the TXV.. thermo expansion valve..

its up in the evaporator.. and damn.. thats a bitch..

you guys dont' think its the reciver/dryer huh? sure would be alot easier. </TD></TR></TABLE>
No, they don't have orifice tubes. Looking at your presures, I don't think you have a restriction in the system. But the compressor cycling on and off makes me wonder. I would look into that first.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chiovnidca &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> But the compressor cycling on and off makes me wonder. I would look into that first. </TD></TR></TABLE>

whats to look at.. i added 3OZ of oil.. which the specs call for, and then i added correct amount of freon. 1.43 lBs.

what would make a obnormal low side high in pressure? and what would make it cycle so offten?

 

since it has flow through it.. would it be possible to do a "AC flush" and clean out that switch?

 

The Honda system is really bad about cutting itself off when the pressure gets too high for itself. I would imagine that this COULD be the problem with that low side pressure reading. I realize that you put in the same amount of refrigerant as it calls for, but what are you going by, old r12 specs or new retrofit specs? You could try draining some of the refrigerant if you have some extra to see if this helps.

 

1.43 lb is 92 R12 spec.. so you think i should go with 95 Si 134A specs? hrmm..

 

hrmm.. a 95 Si with 134A is 1.2 LB.. you think i should try 1.2 LBS? but woudln't that lower my high pressure too? i want that to stay the same.. just lower the low..

 

PM sent

 

if i go with 95 Si 134A specs, anyone know what my gauges should read?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Built B16A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> and what would make it cycle so offten?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Could be a number of things: A/c t-stat, presure switch, thermal protector, among others.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mistamike17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The Honda system is really bad about cutting itself off when the pressure gets too high for itself. I would imagine that this COULD be the problem with that low side pressure reading. </TD></TR></TABLE>
The presure switch is on the high side though, and his is reading low.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chiovnidca &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The presure switch is on the high side though, and his is reading low.</TD></TR></TABLE>

whats a good reading on a 134 setup? i know cars are different.. but what should i shoot for? i think im going to go down to 1.2 lbs. 134A spec. although my highside might drop also.. maybe it'll surprise me.

 

UPDATE!

i just got back from the shop again.. ehh

recovered the system again, and added in 1.2 LB..

for some reason.. if you leave both gauges open, low side reads like 80 PSI, and high is about 100-110.

if you close the high side, and just leave the low side open, low side reads 35 compressor on, and 30 off.

on the other hand, if you close the low side, and open the high side, it reads damn near 200 PSI.. with the low side open, down to 100-110?

im wondering why the valves being open to a closed freon tank make it different?

now.. after this... i check my cooling temp, and im getting only 50 degree's out the the vents, before i was getting 40. only trade off, for some reason, the compressor cycle is now 10-12 seconds consistantly. 12 on, 12 off.. ect.

before at 40 degree's i was getting 3 second cycles..

is a 50 degree 134A respectable? can anyone explain the 200PSI high side reading?

 

well depending on the machine used your suppose to close the valves on the machine

high side should be 100 Plus ambient temp, so 200 to 250 is normal

 

rev the car to 2K and check the temp then

 

does the 12 seocond cycles sound about right? and yes, after the car running.. around town, i think temp might fall alittle more.. but is 50 respectable?

 

bump...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Built B16A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does the 12 seocond cycles sound about right? </TD></TR></TABLE>
No

 

hold the car at about 2000rpm, and turn the fan speed to 2 and turn the ac on, i was able to get 40-5 with r134a.

 

you should be able to get way colder then that. my 95 cools to 40-45 degrees
my buddy has a 76 blazer thats blows 36 all the time with 134a