I've been hearing two different pieces of advice for purchasing headers for my 98 Accord 4cyl. One group says to buy the most expensive whereas the other says they all provide the same gain, go for generic.

My feelings are that considering that this is an important component in any performance exhaust system, you should go with a trusted brand (Neuspeed, Mugen, OBX, etc.), but don't necessarily have to spend $250+ to get a good part. Does anyone have any differing opinions?

 

i would spend $900 on a jun header and be totaly satified spending the money, but if i spent $250 on a DC header i would rather use it for a $250 rake for my lawn before i put it on my car.

 

Don't buy a header for horsepower gains because you'll just disappointed. Greddy is the best for Accords if you insist on getting an aftermarket one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMAccord2nr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't buy a header for horsepower gains because you'll just disappointed. Greddy is the best for Accords if you insist on getting an aftermarket one.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats what ive been told also, but from what i know, which isnt super extensive compared to some of the others on here, but i was told to consider powercore headers also when shopping, they are meant to give comparable if not better hp output than the greddy...but then again, someone told me that and perhaps wanted to sell me that...so, do the math !

 

The header is just one part of an eventual entire exhaust overhaul. I'm not just buying a header and calling it good.

I've heard that jun headers are the best, but besides being far outside my price range, they don't make them for my engine. I've read good things about greddy, but does anybody know anything about mugen or obx headers?

 

All depends on your setup and ultimate goals. Given the choice between a $250 header that gives you 5 more hp and a 1200 header that gives you 2 more over that on a stock engine with an intake, I would spend the 250 and put the rest into an exhaust. If you are not going to touch the internals of your head or block, you will not see the huge gains that are promised in most of the top tier headers.

Just go for stainless, and look for long primaries and a collector slightly larger than stock.

 

From reading various posts and numerous websites (I think I should actually be doing work instead, but this is more interesting) that seems to be the way to go. I'm not planning on fine tuning this beast, just add some more fun to the daily commute. My plan for this car is an Apexi WS exhaust system, some kind of header, maybe a new catalytic converter (that's the REALLY sketchy area), and a CAI to replace the obnoxiously long intake box that comes stock with this car.

To tell the truth, this is more of a learning experience for me since this is the first car I've ever bought. I plan on using what I learn here to build a better machine later after I graduate and get a job, etc. But I might as well have some fun now, right?

 

Right now my car has AEM pulleys, ebay intake, dc sports header, carsound high flow cat, and an apexi ws II exhaust. I got all of this for under $800, the only used part being the dc sports header. It just wouldnt seem right to buy a $1000 header that might only do a little better than the dc sports, and miss out on all the other parts.

So I'd say just look around. Ebay really isnt the best place, because the OBX and other generic headers just dont have that great of a build quality (but I know people have had some success with their products), but once in a while you'll find a good deal. I got my dc header for $120, thanks to browsing honda-tech's classifieds .

By the way, if you get an apexi ws exhaust for the quietness, a high flow cat will really louden it up

 

If you're going to run n2o, get a Kamikaze header with a 2.5" collector.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Yodzilla &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've read good things about greddy, but does anybody know anything about mugen or obx headers?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have no personal experience with mugen headers...I didn't even know that they made them for the F23. Anyhow, when I used to have a F23 I used an obx header for about 2 years. It's the worst piece of @$3%^!. It was rusting apart, and it was leaking everywhere. When the car was idling, I had to hold my nose and mouth and close my eyes. Exhaust fumes everywhere.

OBX 6th gen accord header

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -Bionic- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I have no personal experience with mugen headers...I didn't even know that they made them for the F23. Anyhow, when I used to have a F23 I used an obx header for about 2 years. It's the worst piece of @$3%^!. It was rusting apart, and it was leaking everywhere. When the car was idling, I had to hold my nose and mouth and close my eyes. Exhaust fumes everywhere.

OBX 6th gen accord header
</TD></TR></TABLE>

And we heard you 5 miles away. my eyes still hurt yo!

 

It wasn't too loud, but smelled really bad.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by biggs2.2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would spend $900 on a jun header and be totaly satified spending the money, but if i spent $250 on a DC header i would rather use it for a $250 rake for my lawn before i put it on my car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Apparently you're big tyme, but the dc header is good for the price unless the goal is other than just minimal upgrades. so go do some yardwork

 

Ok, looks like Greddy headers is the way to go as far as striking a balance between price and quality goes. The last thing I need is something that's going to leak and corrode after a few months.

I'm not sure about the high flow cat though, I think I might just skip that. Compared to older catalytic converters, factory cats made now days have much better flow.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Yodzilla &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, looks like Greddy headers is the way to go as far as striking a balance between price and quality goes. The last thing I need is something that's going to leak and corrode after a few months.

I'm not sure about the high flow cat though, I think I might just skip that. Compared to older catalytic converters, factory cats made now days have much better flow.</TD></TR></TABLE>

But if you do change your mind, you can get a bolt-in high flow cat for about $100. I got mine from mufflertech.com.

 

Did you notice any significant changes in either power, sound, fumes, etc?

 

why not get an EX header, and then put on a 2.5" collector???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -Bionic- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It wasn't too loud, but smelled really bad.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I meant after it started leaking at the flange.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pyrojeff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

But if you do change your mind, you can get a bolt-in high flow cat for about $100. I got mine from mufflertech.com.</TD></TR></TABLE>
First off, you are a retard for telling him to get a high-flow for his car. Unless you are cool with getting CEL's left right and center, and loosing vtec because of it, it is not worth it. hey, it just simply isn't worth it even if you do like the little light of death. Your car is OBD2, that means that it has one O2 sensor in your manifold, and one inside your cat. A high flow will make that second sensor send screwy readings and your ECU will go into safe-mode because it does not want to damage itself. the first thing safe-mode does is completely eliminate vtec engagement. also, it'll start to lean out your air/fuel mixture, therefore dropping power. Even on old OBD1 cars that didn't have this sensor issue, they only gained about 2hp with a high-flow. (though because it makes your car louder, most guys swear that it makes about 15 more hp to the wheels)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22abuyer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
First off, you are a retard for telling him to get a high-flow for his car. Unless you are cool with getting CEL's left right and center, and loosing vtec because of it, it is not worth it. hey, it just simply isn't worth it even if you do like the little light of death. Your car is OBD2, that means that it has one O2 sensor in your manifold, and one inside your cat. A high flow will make that second sensor send screwy readings and your ECU will go into safe-mode because it does not want to damage itself. the first thing safe-mode does is completely eliminate vtec engagement. also, it'll start to lean out your air/fuel mixture, therefore dropping power. Even on old OBD1 cars that didn't have this sensor issue, they only gained about 2hp with a high-flow. (though because it makes your car louder, most guys swear that it makes about 15 more hp to the wheels)</TD></TR></TABLE>

strike three your out. only the primary o2 sensor before the cat reads/corrects a/f ratios

 

I have a 97 Ex with the SOHC 4banger also. Dont get me wrong here but I have looked at the stock header and compared to the aftermarket 4,2,1 header . Now to me , More Flow = Better go. Just seems to me because the stock header on the 4cylinders are very very bottlenecked. Now i just got 1 O2 on mine and seems to me it would be better to just replace the header with a aftermarket also catalitic convert and run it back to a nice exhaust mufler of also aftermarket. To have 1) better sounding car, 2) better flow of exhaust, 3) better gasmileage etc for the car. Or am i totaly wrong here?


Just my 2 cents on this topic . Im also learning

 

http://www.Kteller.com

Performance and Aftermarket Parts!

 

best one for the money imo is the GReddy, nice piece.

 

WHy are you guys recommending Greddy when Greddy doesnt make one for the 6th gen? Yes its a F series still, but i believe the routing down to the cat is different. I have a Greddy off my 5th gen and was gonna try to put it on my 6th but i didnt think it was gonna work. If you do try it though, you'll need to buy a o2 extension or get a o2 sim.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuperSlow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Given the choice between a $250 header that gives you 5 more hp and a 1200 header that gives you 2 more over that on a stock engine with an intake, I would spend the 250 and put the rest into an exhaust.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jwogen1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Apparently you're big tyme, but the dc header is good for the price unless the goal is other than just minimal upgrades. so go do some yardwork </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMAccord2nr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't buy a header for horsepower gains because you'll just disappointed. Greddy is the best for Accords if you insist on getting an aftermarket one.</TD></TR></TABLE>

these are all pretty much false, unless you are referring to cheap headers only...a cheap header will dissatisfy you with power gains and probably rust, break, or just all out suck in general...

i myself am using a mugen header on my h22 accord...my other modifications are mere bolt ons (catback exhaust, testpipe. removed secondary butterflies, custom p28 ecu and vafc) and i dynoed at 203 whp...now i didn't dyno before and after (i had a dc header before the mugen) but i can tell you that the significance portion of this power number resides in that header...all these custom headers that cost $500+ wouldn't be so expensive if they only gained 2-3 hp now would they...