EDIT: got the bolt off! put it in 5th and held the brakes,
used a 1/2" 17mm deep socket and a 2ft long bar from my jack to get it off.
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Done a search,
its just ppl talkin about what to use to get enuf power to break the bolt free.

I've got a 1/2drive socket, and the arm from my jack fits on it perfectly.
gives me a like 4ft long wrench.

plenty of leverage.

MY PROBLEM is that I duno wtf I can use to hold the crankpulley in place??!
I tried a screwdriver, it held it good enough to destroy a 3/8th socket,
but when I hit it with the 1/2" the ******* screw driver bent in half!!
wtf?!?
wasnt any spiffy screwdriver.. but i'm histant to buy tougher looking one if its just gonna die too.

basically I want to know, is there any metal bar I can buy, that is thin enough to fit through those holes in the pulley(i jam it up against where the block meets the oil pan to lock it), but strong as ZUES HIMSELF!!!

any ideas??

Will I destroy my tranny if I just leave it in gear and hold the breaks?
lmk
i'm heading out.
if you guys answer this by the time I get back,
you all get major kudos in my book, heh.


Modified by Tad at 9:57 PM 7/16/2004


Modified by Tad at 9:58 PM 7/16/2004

 

remove the flywheel inspection cover. Jam a large beefy screw driver or even better, a pry bar, into the flywheel teeth and rest against the tranny somewhere. THe larger diameter of the flywheel helps for torque multiplication.

Then, crack that bolt off. Works everytime for me.

 

yeah those bolts are bitch, do above what he says, what I did is put it in fifth, have some one step on the brakes like crazy, then try to break it loose. Two times I had to do it, I had to use huge *** imact wrench that I could barely lift with one hand used on semis.

 

or do like me... get a freind with a good-*** impact(air) and knock that bitch out in 2 sec. simple, thats what I did.

 

or make your own crank pulley holder for 5 bucks and a welder

 

8ft cheaterbar ownsj00

 

even a 20 foot cheater bar isn't gonna do much if you can't keep the crank pully from spinning. i used a big *** socket, 42mm i think?, welded it to a 4ft metal bar, then put it into the front of the crank pulley (some have octigonal cut out, some years don't) slip the 17mm in between the 42mm socket and crank away...

make friends really quick with this tool...

 

I know that i was just stating that hes going to need alot of leverage to break it loose

 

put it in gear, and have a couple friends hold the wheels while you rip on that b!tch.

 

I have a Milwaukee electric impact that has beaten all but one of the crank pullies it has faced. Some gave it trouble, but it eventually beat them. Costs a little more than the other ideas mentioned, but it works really well on all the huge bolts and nuts in the car that are held in place with a lot of torque.

 

Morroso makes a tool that will streighten you out(60-70 shipped). also you can get one from honda dealer. but its gonna cost you 100 bux

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2thousandcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">put it in gear, and have a couple friends hold the wheels while you rip on that b!tch.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i just had my dad step on the brakes, with the car in gear, and i broke the pully bolt loose with a 24" lug wrench

 

even better...

 

hmm,
so is it safe to leave it in gear and have someone hold the breaks?

will the transmission be safe???

I'll either do that or emerikas technique.
(hadnt thought about removing that cover to get to the flywheel).

by the way,
can you buy flywheel holders anywhere?
like the one in the pic in the service manual clutch install pages??

thanks for the info guys

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm,
so is it safe to leave it in gear and have someone hold the breaks?

will the transmission be safe???

I'll either do that or emerikas technique.
(hadnt thought about removing that cover to get to the flywheel).

by the way,
can you buy flywheel holders anywhere?
like the one in the pic in the service manual clutch install pages??

I used an open end wrench to hold flywheel in place

thanks for the info guys </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

thnx 4 the bump hatchi,

hmm, well i'll try when i get home,
might just drive down to a shop and havem break it free for me.

I did the waterpump on my last hatch...
i ended up forking out 45 bucks to some shop to do it for me.

scum..

 

Snap on impacts Ownzzzzzz 1000 Ft lbs of torqe in Reverse

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMlyfestyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Snap on impacts Ownzzzzzz 1000 Ft lbs of torqe in Reverse </TD></TR></TABLE>

heh, yeah,
thats cool'n all, but i'm not shelling out any crazy $$'s for some crazy tool.

especially when my main problem isn't leverage(so it seems).
it is HOLDING THE CRANK IN PLACE

 

I bought the tool from the dealer. You don't need the handle that costs as much as the tool, I just put a pipe over it. The tool is pretty handy to have when I need to turn the engine just a little bit too.

 

just take the car to a tire shop so they can break it loose with one of their strong impact guns, then tighten it again. Once its broken loose it should be easy to take it off again once you get home. Thats what i did after a couple of hours of trying it myself.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I bought the tool from the dealer. You don't need the handle that costs as much as the tool, I just put a pipe over it. The tool is pretty handy to have when I need to turn the engine just a little bit too.</TD></TR></TABLE>

which tool is this you're speaking of??

 

LISTEN TO THIS GUY...WHY THE HELL WOULD YOU GO THROUGH ALL THAT TROUBLE...BREAK IT WITH AN IMPACT WRENCH AND CALL IT A DAY...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm,
so is it safe to leave it in gear and have someone hold the breaks?

will the transmission be safe???
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i figure 200lb-fit applied for a split second cant do any damage... the "factory" tool looks like a giant bolt head with a handle welded to it. the bolt head fits into the hex opening in the middle of the crank to hold it and has a hole in it to fit a socket for the pulley bolt.


heres the moroso one. the honda one (made by snap-on i think) has the handle as optional

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accorse07 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LISTEN TO THIS GUY...WHY THE HELL WOULD YOU GO THROUGH ALL THAT TROUBLE...BREAK IT WITH AN IMPACT WRENCH AND CALL IT A DAY...</TD></TR></TABLE>

because I dont have an impact wrench and i'm not going to spend the money to buy one, and as I have repeated a hundred times, my problem is not leverage or strength, it is HOLDING THE CRANK IN PLACE

****

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dantastic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i figure 200lb-fit applied for a split second cant do any damage... the "factory" tool looks like a giant bolt head with a handle welded to it. the bolt head fits into the hex opening in the middle of the crank to hold it and has a hole in it to fit a socket for the pulley bolt.


heres the moroso one. the honda one (made by snap-on i think) has the handle as optional</TD></TR></TABLE>

oooh I see,
so then you need someone to hold the wrench(to hold the crank) while you break the bolt loose.
or I guess you could just turn it till it hits the ground or somethin.. heh.

not sure if my crank has that hex opening though