Please Post Your Setups, I am in desperate need of a good N/A setup.

Going for this setup in my EG which already has had a <U>full</U> LS suspension and break swap.

Post things like...

Cams
Cam Gears
Intake manifold
Ignition Setups
Timing
Injectors
ECU

Let it all out!!

Peece..

 

B18B

Crower 404s

3" Shortram intake with a greddy filter + velocity stack
crappy DC 4-2-1 (slightly ported to prevent reversion)
2.25" comptech catback with bottleneck removed and 2.25" cat
AEM cam gears

Head milled .018"

I made 165whp and / 133ft/lbs of torque

Then I spun a bearing.

 

91 B18A Stock block with 153k miles old piston rings
FPR
Timing set at 17
93 B18A head milled .024", 3-angle valve job
94 B18B cams
94 B18B IM
stock intake
DC 4-2-1 CC
High Flow Cat
Thermal exhaust



the lower dyno is from adding the new head and manifold, the old head had burnt 3rd cylinder exhaust valves, and everything else was stock

 

styleteg how many miles was on your bottom end and how did u spin a bearing ?????????????????????????????????????????????????? ?????????????/

 

coming soon........very soon..

b18a block (81.25mm, just powerhone)
CTR pistons
ls rods w/ arp bolts
stock crank, shimmed oil pump
acl beraings

b18b head
crower springs and retainers
colt cams (similar to 404's)
jdm 4-1
ported IM and matching TB

tuning via p28 w/ uberdata
still have not decide on tranny. (either cable s1 or hydro b16)

Phil

 

From my experiences spinning rod bearings on modified LS engines,its because the bearing surface area is the size of a b16a,the rod bolt is about as thin as a b18c(thinner than b16a) and the rod ratio is worse than both of those engines.The bolt doesnt put enough pressure on the bearings(or cant) because of the width and the rod ratio puts more stress on the rod caps,which causes the caps to be able to slightly move under alot of stress/rpm which lets the bearings move slightly and eventually "spin"..
I usually go with crower 404's,a ported head,crower valvetrain,eagle rods and JE pistons on my engines..but have done stock LS rods w/arp bolts and CTR pistons...Ive put in a gsr crank on one engine,used type R rods and CTR pistons(had all of that laying around)...the most ive dynoed at was 155whp 3 years ago(dont remember torque) ..but that was with a ported head,custom ecu program,light flywheel,neuspeed header and CTR pistons.Never had a chance to dyno with any other mods,but have been to the track with all of those setups and ran a best of 13.2@103 in a full interior crx on drag radials.Havent messed around with LS motors for myself in over a year.

 

My LS buildup:

-b16 P30 pistons (11:1)
-ls rods
-p/p ls head
-crower 403's w/ stock valvetrain
-skunk2 cam gears
-hondata heatshield
-short ram intake(maybe j's?)
-DC 4-1 usdm
-high flow cat
-greddy SP
-fpr, 190lph, S-AFC II

on top of this i will be shooting n2o, of course:
-zex 75 dry shot
-zex purge kit
-zex plugs
-bottle warmer
-bottle guage
-msd sci plus

i may move to hondata as i just recently located a tuner near me, but we'll see. with only a few things left to buy on the list, and a bit of tuning i'm hoping to be deep into 170n/a and 250n2o...but these are only vague guesses at that.

 

I had 140,000 miles on the bottom end.

Spun the bearing due to oil starvation going through an 80mph sweeper at gingerman raceway.

The size of the bearings are fine, the caps don't shift.

Plenty of people use the LS bottom end and bearing size for high reving ls/vtec motors with out trouble.

 

B18A Block
Bored 0.25 Over
CTR pistons
LS rods
ARP rod bolts
Micropolished LS crank
Balanced rotating ***'y
ITR Flywheel
ITR Pressure PLate
Exedy Organic Disc
VTEC oil pump
JDM b16 J1 Tranny
Block decked 10 thou
B18B head
Fully ported/polished
NGK BKR7E plugs
3 Angle valve job
Crower dual valve springs
Colt Race Cams (278 lift)
AEM Cam gears
B&M FPR
SAFC
Erick's ECU
ARP head studs
Ported LS IM
3" CAI
Bored and tapered LS TB
JDM R 4-1 header
2.5" cat
2.5" piping

Untuned for now, timing at 16 degrees. DA9 chassis with no power steering. Car still has A/C, sunroof, full interior.

I'm very happy with my setup so far. The car absolutely hauls ***. to people who have interest in building LS motors.

 

i am either going to run 403s or 404s my setup is p@p head manifold and a 72 mill tapered to a 66 mill tb. also is portmatched to the manifold compresson is about 10.0 maybe around 9.8.1. ans all the other **** dc 4-1 straight threw a high flow and out a spoon n1. my question is what are the main diffrences between the 403s and 404s. my car is daily driven ac,ps. people tell me that the 404s use a lot of vacume and give some brake fatigue also how do they idle. for management i have a stock ecu with a apexi safc and itc controller any info is appreciated.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoonb18b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i am either going to run 403s or 404s my setup is p@p head manifold and a 72 mill tapered to a 66 mill tb. also is portmatched to the manifold compresson is about 10.0 maybe around 9.8.1. ans all the other **** dc 4-1 straight threw a high flow and out a spoon n1. my question is what are the main diffrences between the 403s and 404s. my car is daily driven ac,ps. people tell me that the 404s use a lot of vacume and give some brake fatigue also how do they idle. for management i have a stock ecu with a apexi safc and itc controller any info is appreciated.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Lots of misinformation on 404's. You aren't going to have brake problems due to vacuum. Your idle will be fine.

 

Boing

 

I have never been to a 1/4 mile track but it should run around 13.4's. My car dynoed around 172 whp and 140 ft lbs of torque. I am very impressed with my N/A LS. I run at pretty high elevation and not the best track and manage consistent 8.6's in the 1/8th. My head is not even p&p!!

95 1.8 ltr. non-vtec (Integra LS) swap
Clutch Masters lightweight flywheel (8.5 lbs)
ACT HD/SS clutch kit
Shotpinned stock rods (Hendrins racing)
ARP rod bolts (1.8L 8MM (for LS-VTEC) 208-6001)
B16b pct ek-9 CTR pistons (standard bore)
OEM Honda factory piston rings
ARP head studs
Crower 404 camshafts with matching Valvesprings and Titanium retainers
Stone head gasket
Mr. Gasket exhaust manifold gasket
Hondata Heat Sheild intake manifold gasket
STR adj. cam gears
Skunk2 intake manifold
ITR throttle cable & bracket
GSR TB (Bypass coolant lines into TB)
Carbon Fiber 3" intake
B&M fuel presure regulator
AEM high flow fuel filter
Taylor 10mm plug wires
99 ITR fuel injectors and fuel rail (240cc)
Mugen spec chip (8500 rpm rev)
JDM S-AFC (Generation 1)
Tanabe exhaust (custom 2 1/4" no cat or resinator)
DC sports 4-1 header USDM
OBX lightweight underdrive crankshaft pulley

 

damn some of you guys are hardcore with the non-vtec build.. my old setup (pre-ls/vtec)

stock head, skunk2 camgears, aem fuelrail, pressure regulator
block had pr3 pistons, clutchmasters clutch/flywheel
aem cai, dc 4-2-1 header, no cat, greddy PE

138.5hp 124.1 ft/lb tq

14.8 @ 94mph in hatchback.

i would have liked to port the head and put cams in it.. but 84.5 ls/vtec just seemed nice

 

i will now be going na with my ls,you guys convinced me!!if i can get 170whp out of it ill be very pleased

 

I hit 165whp with 404s with stock pistons, bore, head, and crappy bolt-ons and tiny exhaust.

170whp is a cake walk.

 

TODA cam gears

TODA timing belt - no need

NGK JDM Plugs - no need

Magnacore 8mm wires - no need

MSD ignition - no need

Hondata Intake gasket

Combination EG and LS Mounts (OEM) w/the exception of the JDM aluminum A/C compressor torque mount (super sweet) from a B16A3

Exedy Stage two clutch

ACT 2pc. super light flywheel

Vibrant JDM 4-1 header w/3in collector - 3" collector is beyond overkill. Stick with 2.5"

Vibrant Cat

Custom ??size?? B-pipe - go 2.5"

Mugen Twin loop Axel back

Axels??? - stock

Cams ???? - Crower 404's or 405's

Bore??? - 84mm

Valve Train???? - valvetrain

Head job??? 3 angle valve job, chamber work

You can't just pick random parts and expect to make power. You have to pick them to work TOGETHER. Bigger is not always better, especially with the limited amount of lift/duration you can get with the nonvtec heads.

Don't forget to look into compression and dynamic compression based on the cams you will be using.

 

What about tranny?

Anyone?

 

ITR / B16 + LSD

 

just out of curiosity, has any of this shifted the bowerband higher or does it stay about the same, im starting my anti-vtec campaign as well and i just want to get all the right specs first before i start to go buy parts...i should be able to build this ls na setup and stay below 7500 rpms with decent power?, what is the highest rpm you can pull out of an ls without sleeving with stock rods, and built head? ive been told that the crower valvetrain will hold up to 9000, but i dont trust that....

 

my set up right now..

95 LS integra b18b stock bottom block/head
2000 GSR tranny
ACT street disk
ACT pressure plate
GSR flywheel
Skunk2 mani
ITR trottle body
AEM fuel pressure regulator
DC 4-1 headers (JDM replica 2.5" core)
AEM cold air intake
Full Apexi' n1 exhaust

no AC/PS on a ek coupe
i was able to beast a GSR'S that claims 14.9 sec 1/4, by 1 car

i have crower's 404's
b18b extra head i'm trying to port 3 angle valve job
new vavles, dual valvesprings and retainers
head ARP headbolts

i'm just hopping to get somewhere between 160-180 at wheel when tuned with these aggressive as cams on a SAFC

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lsrex212 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just out of curiosity, has any of this shifted the bowerband higher or does it stay about the same, im starting my anti-vtec campaign as well and i just want to get all the right specs first before i start to go buy parts...i should be able to build this ls na setup and stay below 7500 rpms with decent power?, what is the highest rpm you can pull out of an ls without sleeving with stock rods, and built head? ive been told that the crower valvetrain will hold up to 9000, but i dont trust that....</TD></TR></TABLE>

My LS pulls hard to about 8.2k rpms. The peak is at 7.6k.

 

95 B18B block
bored .25 over
ITR oversized postons(P73) with PR3 rings.
ACL bearings
arp rod bolts
arp head studs
.
mild ported head
3 angle valve job
decked .30
.
chipped ecu (rev limiter taken off etc)
AEM fuel rail and regulator
AEM short ram intake
after market urathane mounts
2.5" exhaust all the way back (no cat or res) to a Tanabe Super Hyper medalion uni muffler
short shifter.
i think thats it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lsrex212 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just out of curiosity, has any of this shifted the bowerband higher or does it stay about the same, im starting my anti-vtec campaign as well and i just want to get all the right specs first before i start to go buy parts...i should be able to build this ls na setup and stay below 7500 rpms with decent power?, what is the highest rpm you can pull out of an ls without sleeving with stock rods, and built head? ive been told that the crower valvetrain will hold up to 9000, but i dont trust that....</TD></TR></TABLE>
look at my dyno, youll see with just the few amount of mods ive done, it shifted everything up 500 rpms

 

Bump ... keep this going !!!

I have a 2000 LS motor w/ 35k on it... 98 gsr tranny

Was going turbo, but changed plans...

I have:

CAI
DC 4-2-1 ceramic header
Skunk2 IM
DC sport exhaust w/ testpipe...

What Else should I do to get say 160 whp ?

what cams... cam shaft.... anything is helpful !

need it to be reliable !!! thats why I didn't boost