Any ideas on what would cause my Vtech to cut out around corners?

It appears that the low oil pressure light also comes on during hard cornering.

The straight away oil pressure is 60+psi.

This is a tempory motor till the H1 motor is biult but I want to try to get one more race out of it.

I have a Accusump, installed a baffled pan before going to WS this past weekend and tried overfilling the Redline 15-50W, but the vech is still dropping out.

I have a Apexi Vtech controller w/Mugen ECU set on a dyno for Vtech in at 4700 out below 4300.

Are there any other setings on the controller that could effect it dropping out? Stock on this Mugen ECU is 5400.

It seems like a oil pressure problem to me but I thought the baffled pan would correct.

I'm looking for a simple fix as I have another motor currently being rebiult but would like to fix the problem before my next event w/TCRA at CS at the end of the month.

Any ideas???

Paul

 

No "h" in vtec yo.

 

There ish the prohblem hI dished the Ahcura/Honha ghods.

I appreciate the spelling correction! Now I know LOL....LOL....

Any ideas about the Vtec dropping out?

Paul

 

hmm my first guess would be oil pressure, but it looks like you've taken measures to prevent that. have you inspected the pickup?

 

You need a longer intenna to fix your VTECH problem

what baffled oil pan did buy?

 

you might have a bad vtec solenoid or a vtec pressure switch or maybe even a bad ecu....check your factory manual and it will help you diagnose the problem. hint: check for engine codes....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It appears that the low oil pressure light also comes on during hard cornering</TD></TR></TABLE>

it seems to me your oil pressure is still dropping even with the baffle and accusump. Also you said you have 60+ PSI on the straits (I'm guessing that's something less than 65), that seems low to me, I have 75 to 80 PSI on the straits.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Maxx44 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you might have a bad vtec solenoid or a vtec pressure switch or maybe even a bad ecu....check your factory manual and it will help you diagnose the problem. hint: check for engine codes.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

A bad ECU based on g-force?! None of these parts are g-sensitive. It's very likely an oil problem... a long shot is a poor connection that when the car corners it gets disconnected.

 

Make very sure the hose to the Accusump is large enough. Also it may be possible that the Accusump is emptying out. It can only help for so long... And just because a pan is baffled isn't a guarantee of perfect operation. Is it a brand known to work well?

Oh, a dumb question, how do you know for sure that VTEC is cutting out? The best way to know is to put a meter on the solenoid wire itself and see if the signal goes away.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PaulB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It appears that the low oil pressure light also comes on during hard cornering.


Paul
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oil pressure plain and simple you just dont have enouhg the simple fact you indicate the red light is on which indicates 5 psi or less of pressure already tells the problem.

Try swithcing to a different oil a 10w 40 genuine hond ais waht the factory manual prefers.

But to fix the problem add more

Moroso had this problem with there aluminum pans in hard left hand corners the pump would cavitate

I asked them baout it at IAS they said they were making a new pan to correct the problem

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eLusive ek4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try swithcing to a different oil a 10w 40 genuine hond ais waht the factory manual prefers.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The manual says 5w30, but changing weights wont fix your oil starvation problems.

Either way, you want to use an oil with the right viscosity for the conditions your engine sees - 5w30 may be fine on the street, but tracking a car in 120 deg Arizona heat will probably need a 50 weight, or even a 10w60.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The manual says 5w30, but changing weights wont fix your oil starvation problems.

Either way, you want to use an oil with the right viscosity for the conditions your engine sees - 5w30 may be fine on the street, but tracking a car in 120 deg Arizona heat will probably need a 50 weight, or even a 10w60.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I use as funny as this sounds and i feel stupid saying it but the japaneese manual becasue it is 10 times more descriptive and it says 10w 40 oil.

Yes i ahd soembody who can read japaneese translate for me Lol

But you are right that wont fix his problem just a suggestion sicne im not a fan of redline fluids

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eLusive ek4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I use as funny as this sounds and i feel stupid saying it but the japaneese manual becasue it is 10 times more descriptive and it says 10w 40 oil.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Because the rest of the world does not have a CAFE standards, the Honda manual actually recommends what's appropriate for conditions - even if it is a 10w40, which would not get an "energy conservation" star here, so the manual says 5w30 and 5w20 (!) on the new hondas (and fords).

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just a suggestion sicne im not a fan of redline fluids</TD></TR></TABLE>

15w50 Mobil 1, Motul 8100/300v, 10w60 Castrol (from the BMW dealer - the german made stuff is real synthetic, vs. US made oils which are refined mineral base), Amsoil - there are plenty of options out there. I'm using 0w30 Syntec, FWIW.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Because the rest of the world does not have a CAFE standards, the Honda manual actually recommends what's appropriate for conditions - even if it is a 10w40, which would not get an "energy conservation" star here, so the manual says 5w30 and 5w20 (!) on the new hondas (and fords).

15w50 Mobil 1, Motul 8100/300v, 10w60 Castrol (from the BMW dealer - the german made stuff is real synthetic, vs. US made oils which are refined mineral base), Amsoil - there are plenty of options out there. I'm using 0w30 Syntec, FWIW.</TD></TR></TABLE>

agreed except for AMSOIL

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eLusive ek4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">agreed except for AMSOIL</TD></TR></TABLE>

What dont you like about Amsoil or Redline? &lt;straying further off topic&gt;

 

Is there any possibility that you do not have the right dipstick for the motor? Maybe one that is too long? That's the simplest cause I can think of.

And assuming it is indeed the correct dipstick - are you checking the oil level with the Accusump completely (60+ PSI) full?

Mike (who doesn't know much about Hondas, but knows something about oil pressure)

 

I have seen and gong einto this disucssion before AMSoil be the cause of many engine failures.

Redline especially the gear box fluids i have also seen cause more harm then good

I have had great success with genuine honda products

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eLusive ek4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have had great success with genuine honda products</TD></TR></TABLE>

HG Fluids for track use?

 

On a mild build sure if not neo synthetic would be my other choice

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eLusive ek4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On a mild build sure if not neo synthetic would be my other choice</TD></TR></TABLE>

What's the engine build have to do with it?

I would no way use HG brake fluid, MTF, or motor oil in a car that sees heavy track use. Just my opinion.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What's the engine build have to do with it?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

more power = more heat

 

Brake fluid = motul rbf 600

Oil - neo

Tranny = HG with synchro mesh or neo

 

I would not use HG MTF in a track car - its thin, and breaks down/shears very easily. Its 10w30 motor oil with a few anti-wear additives - nothing special at all.

 

redline is even worse

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eLusive ek4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">redline is even worse</TD></TR></TABLE>

Redline MTF?