So I decided to make a new thread so I could possibly get more people to take a look. I've been scouring h-t all weekend trying to find anything to help me with my B16 problem. I finally got the car idling and got the vacuum lines hooked up right but I can't rev it over 2500 RPMs. It's getting fuel from what I can tell and if I hold the throttle open it starts to backfire so I'm guessing that my dizzy isn't working quite right.

Basically I'm wondering if anyone can tell me how to check the dizzy's condition so I can rule it out? I did a search but didn't really turn up anything too useful (then again I didn't search very hard lol)

Also I was curious if someone with MPFI could tell me on the TPS if the green wire is on the top of the plug when it's connected to the TPS or if the yellow wire is on top.

I'm just looking to save some $$ before I take it somewhere to fix my problems for me.

 

was the car originaly MPFI? or was it DPFI?

i know you have to swap the 2 outter wires on the TPS plug if it was a DPFI going to a MPFI.
not sure which colors at what location though.

any codes?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Die-Laughing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">was the car originaly MPFI? or was it DPFI?

i know you have to swap the 2 outter wires on the TPS plug if it was a DPFI going to a MPFI.
not sure which colors at what location though.

any codes?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Originally DPFI when I did my conversion harness I don't know if I used the donor harness' plug or the DX's plug which is why I'm unsure if I have it hooked up incorrectly. Reason being is that the spare TPS plug I had in my garage has the yellow & green wires on the opposite sides.

Currently I'm throwing CEL 6 and 7

 

code 6 is engine coolant temp sensor (ECT) and it will put your car in limp mode and it wont run right at all.
make sure the connections on that are ok and maybe spend the 20 bucks to replace that sensor (the sensor under the dizzy most towards the front of the head) can get em at napa or parts stores alike)

not sure about cel 7...anyone else?

 

I've checked the voltage and it's just crap so I think I might try and snag my neighbor's TPS and hook it up and see if that makes any difference at all.

 

The code 7 is your Throttle Sensor, I believe at lest, check this first https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=468260
This thread helped me out a lot!

 

bump for the dizzy question

 

you can replace cap and rotor on the dizzy. Aside from just buying one theres no other way to check.. find a friend w/ a spare.

 

ECT is resolved. Turns out I plugged the VTEC conversion harness into the TW sensor instead of the actual line . Plugged the right one in and cleared the ECU now I'm down to my TP sensor but it leaves me with a problem - I now have a wire on my conversion harness that's not hooked up. It's the non-green plug on the harness that's round - I don't see anything that's loose and when I took off the B16's harness I switched everything over one by one so I'm at a loss where to put this last plug into lol

 

ok So anyone who's done DPFI -&gt; MPFI B16 might have an answer for me. The Knock sensor was the plug I had in the TW sensor. i read that the knock sensor is on the back of the engine between runners 2&3 but when I look, the plug I see back there has a green plug on it. I remember when I was putting the MPFI converted harness on the engine before dropping it in my car that there was a green plug in the same spot so I replaced it with a green plug. Am I looking at the right spot or is there another sensor back there I'm missing? If I am looking at the right one then do I just unplug the green plug that's in there now and let it dangle and put the correct one in? confused

 

you have to take pictures bro. Most likely the harness you are using is a dx one modified for a b16 swap which means the knock sensor plug back there isn't original which also means that the color doesn't matter because he could of used a plug from another harness.
Sounds to me like you got all ur plugs mixed up. The knock sensor plug is a one wire sensor. The only other sensors back there are the oil pressure sensor which has a little black rubber cover on it, and the fan switch which is two wires, yell/grn and black.
I'm 100% sure you need to go and switch the outer two wires on ur TPS. Should fix ur throttle problem.

 

I just got my digital camera back so I can get pics. I did swap the two wires and followed the troubleshooting chart and I think my TPS is just bunk. I'm trying to find someone in my area who will let me borrow a working one for 10 minutes to see if it's that or my wiring.

If the only things back there are the oil pressure, knock sensor, and coolant fan switch then I'll unplug what I have in what I believe is the knock sensor switch. Should clear that problem up but now my damn EACV is screwed up again. It was fine for a day after I swapped it out for a working one now it's back to being all screwed up

 

with the eacv...you have to do what i told you to because urs is an 88

 

AHAHAHAHA just as I get my axles I begin to think I'm done I find out the place I got my swap from put a 94+ B-series intermediate shaft on there instead of the correct J1 90-93 shaft. I'm looking in there going "How are two male ends supposed to connect?"

no new updates since I'm still waiting for my new TPS to come

 

UPDATE!!

I followed Bambam's advice for my EACV problem and not only did it FIX the code but now my engine is out of limp mode and revving strong! It's still idling high which is no doubt due to my bad TPS but at least it's normal now!!

Thanks again to everyone who has helped me out!!

 

No problem with the help.
BTW...this EACV problem....I don't think anyone else has ever figured it out. I think I'm the first person....everytime I do an mpfi swap into an 88 civic/crx dx/lx/std etc, i get that code 14 eacv. Even the si and hf's are different in 88. It's because the 88 and only the 88 uses a different ground for the eacv. I found it when cross referencing the wiring between an 88 si, and a 90 si. ALL the wires were the same location and color EXCEPT the EACV. My last 2 cars were 88's (crx and civic). So that's why i needed to solve the problem because i kept getting the eacv code cuz i did mpfi swaps on both of them (they were dx's). Why did honda do this? I dunno. Also, the 90-91 integra wiring is IDENTICAL to an 89-91 civic/crx si. It's just so wierd because whenever you read about mpfi swap instructions or motor swaps...they NEVER mention about the 88 eacv problem...but i constantly see posts about doing a swap and getting a code 14. No one ever has the right answer and it seems that my advice is the only one that has solved everyone's problems. i don't mean to toot my own horn or nuttin...but
TOOT TOOT!