i have a b16 in my rex and on the highway it gets loud and annoying. turning up the radio is alright unless i have someone in it. i bought some sound deadning stuff that came in a can from auto zone. has anyone ever used it and how well did it work?

PS. im basically talking about the cargo area, were the spare tire is and around the wheel wells.

 

you sure it's not a problem with your rear bearings or perhaps a bump on you tire? I had that happen and it was loud. I applied dynamat over those wheel wells and it did not help at all.
I'd also check if your cat right at the A-pipe junctions is sealing properly.
HTH

 

thanks for the reply but, i have brand new bushings and brand new balanced and alligned tires. also i don't have a cat, but i have a new resonator and new piping so i doubt anything is leaking. my only options (as far as i know) are a stock muffler or some sort of sound deadning stuff. i was just wondering if anyone has ever used the sound deadning stuff and what they though of it.

 

Use a Mass loaded Vinyl if you're Hardcore serious:
http://www.soundprooffoam.com/....html
Or
http://www.soundproofing.org/sales/prices.html

MOre effective than a layer of Lead. MAss Loaded vinyl is a barrier, it blocks the sound. These work best when Coupled with an absorber. Absorbers are commonly open-celled foams(like egg-crate foam). Both of those sites make a mass loaded vinyl w/ a foam attached.

Also, you could give a Dynamat alternative a chance. If you go this route I HIGHLY reccommend using a liquid deadener over a mat.
http://www.edesignaudio.com -Edead V3, ~$50/gallon
http://www.secondskinaudio.com -Spectrum, E-mail for Details. Actually the same stuff used by Jaguar. Also ~$50/gallon
http://www.mcmaster.com In the search field, type 'high temp mastic' 5 gallons for about $85, that's the BEST deal out there.

If you use a liquid deadener, you CANNOT adhere a foam or deadening mat over the cured liquid.

Second Skin Audio also sells 1/8" Neoprene foam.

The Rubberized undercoating works marginally. It's a deadener, and not a very good one at that. I use it to cover my liquid in my wheel wells, otherwise I steer clear.

 

looks like some good stuff, especially the top two sites. do you know which one works the best, i like the idea that with those if i change my mind in the future it should rip out easy. plus it won't be as messy to install. have you ever tried any of them, how well do they work?

 

I actually just covered the interior of my car in dynamat. I had everything but the dash out and layered Dynamat Extreme in there. Made it very quiet. here is a pic of the door (dont mind that siliconed speaker, its been replaced ) made a very big difference in sound quality also. I spent about 300 dollars for all the dynamat. The pic was before i did all of the floorwells.

It's worth it, but takes alot of time, and depending on what type of deadiner you use, it can cost alot of money. But for CR-Xs its well worth it. I wouldn't reccomend doing it if you are going for light weight, this **** weighs too much!

-Scott

 

http://www.b-quiet.com

 

The Mass Loaded Vinyls will work the best at blocking out outside noise.

If you want to stop metal-born resonances and vibrations, use a mat or the lquid deadener. These products raise the mass of the panels, so then it will take more energy to cause the panel to resonate/vibrate. Liquid Deadeners work MUCH better than mats for mass loading (Adding weight). A liquid, at 1/2 the thickness(after curing) will work the same as twice the thickness of a mat. Mats work good for sealing off a door though, for instance if you are aiming to increase your midbass response, sealing the door with mats will help your low-frequency response.

I have used the Second Skin Damplifier Pro, which is 80mils (that's quite thick). I also used the McMaster liquid deadener. If you are REALLY serious about road noise, you can clean your outer wheel wells well (Scrub out ALL loose dirt), add a liquid deadener, and then cover it in a rubberized undercoating to match. Then, on the inside, you can use a matting on the wheel well, then cover the mat with the liquid deadener, and then add an open cell foam over that. Then add the mass loaded vinyl. This would result in almost zero raod noise from you wheel wells. In the CRXes, I've notice MUCH of the noise is from the wheel wells. I noticed a difference when just using 4 layers of brushed liquid on my outer wheel wells.

Doors are also a high noise loaction. I coated my outer door panel (the one with the trim and everything attached to it) with the liquid. Then I used a mat for the outer door panel (the part where the water guard [the plastic sheet] attaches to). Then I will use my neoprene foam in between the door panel and the door. My plastic door panel also has 5 layers of liquid deadener.

For Deadening, Liquid work the best. For sealing and deadening, mats are best. For Absorbtion, Open cell foam works the best. For blocking, Mass loaded Vinyl is the ABSOLUTE best. Combining different materials will ALWAYS yield the best results.

If you get mass loaded vinyl, the one with the open cell foam wil work the best. The MLV will yield 27 dBs of noise reduction @ (if I remember correctly) 1000hz. AS the frequency goes up, the reduction increases.

For mass loading, mass is mass, the cheaper the better. For this reason, I HIGHLY recommend The McMaster liquid. But, as you pointed out, only the foams would really be removable. For blocking road noise, the foams would definately be a good choice.

Any more questions, just ask. I'll respond to this thread so everyone can read the answers.

 

for the benefit of a search, I will respond in here

"i think what im going to do is order some mass loaded vinyl and just lay it on my cargo area and then cut a piece and put it into the wheel well (behind the speaker). does this sound good? also i have been trying to call supersound proofer and i can't get a hold of anyone? i wanted them because there stuff is padded and i though that it would be better than the unpadded stuff."

Yes, You can simply lay it down, but they also sell a silicone adhesive to adhere it to things. This would help keep it from sliding around.

Also, if you want to target your rear wells, I'd say, cut a piece a good foot or two PAST the wheel wells, and then lay that down. The more coverage, the better!

The Padded version (vinyl w/ open cell foam) performs better than JUST the vinyl.

Mass Loaded vinyl block sound. Sound travels slowly through the air, and quickly through objects. If your exhaust sound travels up, and hits your body, it will then travel up through that, and into your cabin. If you lay the vinyl down, when the sound hits the vinyl, it is reflected back. Here it has nowhere to go, so it just reflects back and forth until it dissipates, or escapes through either layer.

Now, if you add open celled foam betwwen the metal and the vinyl, the sound hits the body, then travels to the cabin. Here it hits the open cell foam. It must travel through the open cell foam (which absorbs the sound). The sound that makes it through the first trip hits the barrier, and has to go bad through the foam again, being further reduced, and then hits the body, goes through the foam, etc etc.

The Open cell foam helps reduce the amount of noise that has to be reflected, making for an even more effective sound deadener.

Think of using mass loaded vinyl as a way to isolate your cabin from the road, and all its noise.

Another target area would be your doors. If you can, see if you can get the vinyl to stick to your doors (the metal part behind the panel). Perhaps 3M super 90 could work, but that silicone adhesive looks very promising.

For the floor, even just spot adhering the foam would be good. You just want to make sure it won't move around.

ANd the STC difference is 27 compared to 34. 27 is the open-cell free version. This is the amount of noise reduced (between 125 and 4000hz), measured in Decibels if I recall. 30 decibels is a good reduction, for instance, doubling the power of a speaker only yileds 3 dBs.

Any other questions, just ask away.

 

It sounds like yall want a Cadillac with all this "sound deadner" st[_]ff. If it's a honda,_civic,_EFat that,_CR><,_at that. It is NOT gonna be a "quiet" car. A Cadillac is quiet quiet inside not thi economy car.

 

Not necessarily true......If you soundproof, and do it right, it can and will sound like the door of an Acura closing (I hate Cadillac , Acura is better ). I am currently doing my CRX, but a guy did his 98 Chevy S10 Pickup. If you've never been in one, they are not well put together. He did the doors, the roof (yes, the roof under h/l), floor pan, firewall, and even threw some under the hood for good measure. Everything in his truck was done, now when he gets in and closes the door, you get that quiet thud of a $50k auto instead of a $15k one. Takes time and money, as anything else does done properly, but can pay HUGE dividends.

 

I dont mean to say Cadillac is the only quiet car. Buick too. lol . No but if you were to put all kinds of sound deadener in a race crx then I think it is pointless cause you be adding alot of weight and race cars are genrally loud anyway. If not then it would be a good idea.

 

i guess what im trying to do is get the best of both worlds. im trying to make a car thats cheap, fast and fun to drive. to me its not fun to drive if everytime your in it it give you a headache.

i ended up going to the local audio store and buying some stuff called gator skin. it weights .6 pounds a square foot so if i use all three roles it will only add about 21 pounds and cost me around $135 after some bargaining . for me if it make the ride more enjoyable its worth it.