Just curious how the aluminum looks compared to stainless. Bling bling.

Thanks.

 

hmmm you Tig weld and do tuning but you dont know that Stainless Steel keeps heat in...........

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

There is a reason why people chose Aluminum and Mild Steel and dont use SS.

Fucktard.

 

lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dennis Leary &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmmm you Tig weld and do tuning but you dont know that Stainless Steel keeps heat in...........

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

There is a reason why people chose Aluminum and Mild Steel and dont use SS.

Fucktard.</TD></TR></TABLE>

he said what it looks like, not how it well it decipates heat. Fucktard..

Can someone ban this guy already...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dennis Leary &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmmm you Tig weld and do tuning but you dont know that Stainless Steel keeps heat in...........

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

There is a reason why people chose Aluminum and Mild Steel and dont use SS.

Fucktard.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Awwww. Guess who it is?

Dennis Leary Edit Profile User Active 2 9:14 PM 7/10/2004 9:21 PM 7/10/2004 66.7.35.35
viaglow Edit Profile User Banned 16 4:23 AM 7/4/2004 6:41 PM 7/9/2004 66.7.35.35


Thank you for pointing out the obvious. Unfortunately, I already am aware of aluminum haveing a higher thermal conductivity number than steel. Yep, aluminum will transfer more heat meaning cooler charge temps. But then again, that's what an intercooler is for.

I'm glad I have a fan out there in Maryland It's a real compliment having you create new accounts and have you talk **** to me. You are such a cutie.

 

Its a moot point. The thing is under boost if you sized your charge piping correctly the air moves over any given point in the charge pipe so fast that it doesen't have time to absorb the heat. Its like quickly touching a hot stove with your hand. If you believe that the air is heated up by the piping under high flow (higher power levels) then that compressor connected to your exhaust is super heating the air to 1800 degrees F!


Now, to help this guy out, 409 series stainless steel.



Modified by danl at 7:17 PM 7/10/2004


Modified by danl at 7:35 PM 7/10/2004

 

if anything you are even consider heat transfer at all, it would not be a good thing on our turbo cars. Setting aside the fact that there is very little surface to transfer the heat combined with high velocity and relatively low turbulance in the charge pipe. Have you ever measured under hood temps compaired to the intake charge? Unless its -50f outside you will probably have a considerable higher under hood temp then the intake charge temp if you are running a descent size radiator.

 

wouldnt ss also help keep heat out?

 

In a perfect world, I would want a metal with high thermal conductivity before the IC and lower conductivity after the IC. Hell, while I'm dreaming, why not make the lower pipe out of aluminum with cast-on heat sinks? At best the IAT would be equal to underhood temp before it even reached the IC. Then pipe insulation on the upper pipe....

But the point of the post is looks, not function.

 

I am going for function for my personal set-up and more fashion for a customers. He is on a bit of a budget, yes I am aware of prices so need not lecture me. I do not want to use mild steel on his considering the material will rust over time.

Aluminized mild steel is a bitch since you have to grind away the outer shield in order to lay down quality beads.

 

Why not mild steel and powdercoat?

 

budget.

and by the way, I don't like spraypainting. The finish comes off too easily when knicked.

 

That tight of a budget? You can get all the gear to do your own powdercoating from Eastwood for cheap. For $440, you can get a HotCoat gun and an IR curing stand. LINK Powder is cheap. Figuring in the price of SS and 4320 vs. mild steel, the system would pay for itself after 3 or 4 intercooler systems. Well, assuming you are buying bends? I don't know if you have your own mandrel bender.

 

Thanks for the info beepy. I have looked into that system before actually, but I am not sure if I can justify purchasing one at this time. Maybe next summer.

Anyways, pictures would be nice. I have not seen to many people with aluminum piping.

 

Someone must have studied their thermodynamics!! The engine bay temps are most likey going to be higher than the air charge temps - which means a net heat flow INTO the pipe. Stainless is a better choice for keeping heat OUT of your intake charge.

Additonally, stainless will not rust from the inside out. Yes, it is more expensive than aluminum or aluminzed steel - but its well worth it if you can afford it.

 

with that powder coater, can i powder coat my engine, manifold, and turbo? I want everything to look GOOOOOOOOOOD

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lsvt3c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with that powder coater, can i powder coat my engine, manifold, and turbo? I want everything to look GOOOOOOOOOOD</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you have an oven that big?

 

If cost is an issue, go: http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/nc...r=361

At the bottom $25 for a mandrel bent 409 series stainless steel J bend. Thats two 90 degrees with a few feet of straight section on top of that! It comes in really rough so you have to polish it, but its worth it. Most guys are used to 304 and 321 series stainless. This is a "cheaper" stainless (its more magnetic) but is very corrosion resistint and shines up really nice. Its also thinwall, so its fairly light.

 

I've got price lists from jegs, JC whitney, summit, kteller, and RRE. It looks like Kteller has the best deals out of all of those companies for an all together package. Also, some of the companies have aluminized mild steel, I dont like that stuff.

 

My buddy made this for me, im really impresseed with the welding. I dont know what disadvantages/advantages there are to having a 'chamber' oor whatever you wanna call it, its the only aluminum pipe he had laying around and it worker quite nicely

holy crap those are huge... forgot how big they were. Im hungover, my bad.... Resizing now


eh..... i forgot my dads comp is a piese of aaaaaaace. No MS paint, no nothin... cant resize, sorry.

heres another pic. Sorry i dont got one while its in the car, ***** all in pieces now.




Modified by B18EG6 at 11:56 AM 7/11/2004

 

For my car with 2.25" into the IC and 2.5" out it takes two 2.5" j bends, and one 2.25" j bend. Thats $85 shipped in SS tubing. Triple ply couplers from RRE ran me $87 for one foot of 2.5" a foot of 2.25" a 2" to 2.25" coupler a 2.25" to 2.5" coupler and shipping. 87+85=$172 shipped to your door.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with that powder coater, can i powder coat my engine, manifold, and turbo? I want everything to look GOOOOOOOOOOD</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, and you don't need an oven if you buy the IR curing stand. It will cure the powder in sections, so it takes a lot longer to cure but it gets it done on a budget tight as a drum.

You just have to make sure you don't contaminate the powder while curing....

The manifold and turbo, though, you can cure in a used oven. You can even use a toaster oven for small parts.

 

iI personally like to use Alum..
Always say i am going to polish it, but never do.....

 

anyone have pics of rsx or 02 Si turbo pipng installed on the car???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beepy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That tight of a budget? You can get all the gear to do your own powdercoating from Eastwood for cheap. For $440, you can get a HotCoat gun and an IR curing stand. LINK Powder is cheap. Figuring in the price of SS and 4320 vs. mild steel, the system would pay for itself after 3 or 4 intercooler systems. Well, assuming you are buying bends? I don't know if you have your own mandrel bender.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do any of you have any more info or feedback on this product?