Where is this thing at? I did a search couldn't find the location of it. Anyone help?

 

Your IACV is located on the back of the intake manifold right near the throttle body. Should have two coolant hoses coming from under it. Also has a two wire sensor hooked in the front of it. <---b16a

 

red circle = IACV

 

check it out

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=469411

 

can i use something like brakeklean on it? or simple green? or just soap and water?

 

carb cleaner fyi these can also be tested by using a 9v battery. just hook it up and you'll hear a "pop/ding" sound.

 

Get some carb-cleaner.Spray the cap out of it. Leave it out in the sun so it drys. Slap it back on. You might want to clean out you F.I.C.V will your at it.

 

I have 90 Civic LX sedan with the 1.5 and the engine surges up and down at idle and I understand that it is the IAC valve. Will this cleaning procedure clean it up enough to stop the surging? Or can anyone suggest anything else it may be that is causing it to surge? Those things are expensive from Honda!!!!!! Thanks for any suggestions.

 

thanks for the responses! I'll pull it off and clean it out tonight and also test it and see if I can clear up my CEL 14. I'm hoping that this, combined with incorrectly done vacuum lines will help steady the idle out enough that I can troubleshoot why I'm throwing a TPS code.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dbailey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have 90 Civic LX sedan with the 1.5 and the engine surges up and down at idle and I understand that it is the IAC valve. Will this cleaning procedure clean it up enough to stop the surging? Or can anyone suggest anything else it may be that is causing it to surge? Those things are expensive from Honda!!!!!! Thanks for any suggestions. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Unplug the IACV, if it stops then its bad. if not it's something else.

Surging idle's are usually caused by a vac leak.

 

By plugging one of the open vacuum lines and the upper hole inside the throttle body I was able to get the car to idle steady at 2k RPM. So I think I got that at least figured out a little bit. Additionally, one of the hoses going to the EACV had a massive hole in it and was spewing coolant out the back. I replaced that and now I'm not leaking coolant as bad but I still ahve a bit coming out. Additionally I still have the same 3 CEL codes (6,7, 14). I think I'm going to say the words I rarely say: I'm taking it to someone to finish. It's been 3 weeks and I don't have time to fool around with this anymore. :down:

 

bump - need help from anyone. I've done searched and tried everything the searches say but still haven't had any results

 

pull thiacv off any other honda from that gen i did the same on my b16. bang--no codes and runs well for the past year and a half. anyone have a skunk2 or edelbrock intake manifold they want to get rid of?

 

the IACV is that whole assemply that bolts on the back of the manifold right? I have a spare CRX Si manifold I've got lying around so I can yank one off that. It looks like mine is still leaking coolant pretty bad so that's probably going to be my best bet. Got the idle to stay steady for a little bit at 2k before it started tweaking out again so I think I finally have the vacuum lines hooked up right.

So if my TP sensor was way out of range would that cause me to show TP sensor error?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kagegod &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So if my TP sensor was way out of range would that cause me to show TP sensor error?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes it can,that can cause the idle to bounce up and down like your saying check the voltage and idle it should be 0.5volts and and WOT it should be at 4.5 if i remember right if i'm off on the voltages someone please correct me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Donkey85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yes it can,that can cause the idle to bounce up and down like your saying check the voltage and idle it should be 0.5volts and and WOT it should be at 4.5 if i remember right if i'm off on the voltages someone please correct me </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well that could be it. WHen I checked the voltage I was reading 0.2 volts idle I'll try adjusting that and see if it at least clears up my TPS CEL. I'm also going to swap out the IAC valve and see if that will correct the other CEL meaning I would just have to worry about the ECT

 

ok I swapped out my IAC valve and fired the car up and the RPMs are steady at 1500 now down from a varying 1800-2000. I checked the voltage on the TPS before I started the car and I read 0.02 at close. When I would try to adjust it I would get no change. Now if I remove the TPS from the throttle body and move the lever inside it reads just fine. I put the TPS back on the car and started it up and checked the voltage again and it read -0.10!! Is my TPS bad or am I missing something?

EDIT - I have two TP sensor plugs, one from my DX and one from the Si donor harness. The two plugs are different in the sense that the two outer wires are on opposite sides (The spare plug I have I checked against the one I'm using and the green is the bottom plug on the one I have). If by chance I used the Si plug instead of the DX plug, and I swapped the outer wires when I did - would that mean that I could possibly have the wires hooked up incorrectly on the plug? If so which is right when you look at the TPS plug from the passenger side: green wire on top or green wire on bottom?


Modified by kagegod at 11:57 PM 7/10/2004

 

bump

 

yes i'm pretty sure the TPS is cashed then. as for what wire is on top and bottom i'll check tomm and get back with you because i cant remember off the top of my head

 

i used to constantly humor code 14. in my case, it was a bad connection at the plug and the wiring. shorting out and ****.

just thought i'd throw out another possibility. good luck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90 87 90 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i used to constantly humor code 14. in my case, it was a bad connection at the plug and the wiring. shorting out and ****.

just thought i'd throw out another possibility. good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd appreciate it! I remember starting my MPFI conversion harness before the B16 arrived but I don't know if I used the right plug or not. I also read over some of the archive information and I might have a bad dizzy as well more money to spend that I don't have lol

 

What the hell, you live in the same town as me. I thought I knew everyone from here........

Lemme know how that goes, I got nothin' to do tomorrow.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by riceburner247 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What the hell, you live in the same town as me. I thought I knew everyone from here........

Lemme know how that goes, I got nothin' to do tomorrow.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you probably know me or at least who I am.

I think I have the TPS wired correctly but I'm confused how the red wire reads 0.02 at the TPS and doesn't change unless I pull it off the TB and physically move it. That and the ECT are the only codes I have left to deal with and then i get to figure out why my car won't rev past 2500 RPMs

 

bump - still need an answer on the plug

 

looking at the sensor from the passenger side. you should have a yellow on top, then a red, then a green!