Autocross - JIC FLT-A2 vs. Koni/GC
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I daily drive my '98 Integra but also race auto-x on the weekends and do "okay" in street mod. Right now I have Neuspeed Sofsports (1" lower, 250/185 lb/in) and Tokico blues, and of course they're too soft and underdamped... and not adjustable.
I have taken about 110lbs off the front and only ~50lbs off the rear once the rear seats and spare are removed for race day, so even with those spring rates and 25.4/19mm sways, the tail can get out there pretty willingly - although not quite enough.
I've been looking at the JIC FLT-A2s, and since the stock rates are 10k/7k, from talking with JIC it seems that I can only drop the fronts to 8k w/o revalving (don't want to, have heard it takes a long time and probably mucho $$). That's an ok balance for now, but a little on the stiff side (racing on a pretty choppy surface, also a daily driver) and if I want more oversteer later when my skills develop more I can only really stiffen the rear further if I want to avoid going thru the revalving process.
The Ground Control/Koni setup has much more spring rate choice (anything in increments of 25 lbs/in) and is just simpler - I feel like the JIC's adjustments, while nice, are a little overkill - I'm not that good! Although camber adjustment would be nice.
What do you guys think? The price difference between the two (I work at a shop) would be about $600. I feel the JICs would be better quality/damping-wise, but the lack of spring rate flexibility in addition to costing nearly double kinda freaks me out.
++ JIC
Pillowballs/camber adjustment included
Better damping quality/adjustability (?)
Can adjust coils w/o affecting preload
++ GC
Much more spring rate choice
$600 cheaper
Easier to get serviced
Anybody have experience with both??
I have taken about 110lbs off the front and only ~50lbs off the rear once the rear seats and spare are removed for race day, so even with those spring rates and 25.4/19mm sways, the tail can get out there pretty willingly - although not quite enough.
I've been looking at the JIC FLT-A2s, and since the stock rates are 10k/7k, from talking with JIC it seems that I can only drop the fronts to 8k w/o revalving (don't want to, have heard it takes a long time and probably mucho $$). That's an ok balance for now, but a little on the stiff side (racing on a pretty choppy surface, also a daily driver) and if I want more oversteer later when my skills develop more I can only really stiffen the rear further if I want to avoid going thru the revalving process.
The Ground Control/Koni setup has much more spring rate choice (anything in increments of 25 lbs/in) and is just simpler - I feel like the JIC's adjustments, while nice, are a little overkill - I'm not that good! Although camber adjustment would be nice.
What do you guys think? The price difference between the two (I work at a shop) would be about $600. I feel the JICs would be better quality/damping-wise, but the lack of spring rate flexibility in addition to costing nearly double kinda freaks me out.
++ JIC
Pillowballs/camber adjustment included
Better damping quality/adjustability (?)
Can adjust coils w/o affecting preload
++ GC
Much more spring rate choice
$600 cheaper
Easier to get serviced
Anybody have experience with both??
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White98LS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
++ JIC
Pillowballs/camber adjustment included
Better damping quality/adjustability (?)
Can adjust coils w/o affecting preload
++ GC
Much more spring rate choice
$600 cheaper
Easier to get serviced
Anybody have experience with both??</TD></TR></TABLE>
++JIC
Pillowballs/camber adjustment includedfalse on are cars you can not adjust camber form the top mounting point
Better damping quality/adjustability (?)i have never own'd JIC's so im not gona knock um but koni's is great
Can adjust coils w/o affecting preload
++ GC
Much more spring rate choiceanit that the truth and the quality is better on the springs also, there is a member out of seattle area who has the JIC dampers but uses ERS springs (i think he runs JIC dampers if not there BC
$600 cheaper thats always good
Easier to get servicedtrue make sure you do it at the right time though when all the racing season end and right befor they start again its a pretty crazy time for koni
++ JIC
Pillowballs/camber adjustment included
Better damping quality/adjustability (?)
Can adjust coils w/o affecting preload
++ GC
Much more spring rate choice
$600 cheaper
Easier to get serviced
Anybody have experience with both??</TD></TR></TABLE>
++JIC
Pillowballs/camber adjustment includedfalse on are cars you can not adjust camber form the top mounting point
Better damping quality/adjustability (?)i have never own'd JIC's so im not gona knock um but koni's is great
Can adjust coils w/o affecting preload
++ GC
Much more spring rate choiceanit that the truth and the quality is better on the springs also, there is a member out of seattle area who has the JIC dampers but uses ERS springs (i think he runs JIC dampers if not there BC
$600 cheaper thats always good
Easier to get servicedtrue make sure you do it at the right time though when all the racing season end and right befor they start again its a pretty crazy time for koni
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
, there is a member out of seattle area who has the JIC dampers but uses ERS springs (i think he runs JIC dampers if not there BC</TD></TR></TABLE>
you talking about me?? I'm running BCRS with ERS 500 front 550 rear.....LOVE it, great dampers. I'd only run these or revalved Yellows, like I used to
, there is a member out of seattle area who has the JIC dampers but uses ERS springs (i think he runs JIC dampers if not there BC</TD></TR></TABLE>
you talking about me?? I'm running BCRS with ERS 500 front 550 rear.....LOVE it, great dampers. I'd only run these or revalved Yellows, like I used to
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Emerika »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you talking about me?? I'm running BCRS with ERS 500 front 550 rear.....LOVE it, great dampers. I'd only run these or revalved Yellows, like I used to</TD></TR></TABLE>You're Evan with the red EG hatch that's always quicker than me right?
Wait, so you have Buddy Clubs, NOT JICs right? How does what you have now compare to the yellows? And how do you like those spring rates on the bumpy Port of B'ham lot?
you talking about me?? I'm running BCRS with ERS 500 front 550 rear.....LOVE it, great dampers. I'd only run these or revalved Yellows, like I used to</TD></TR></TABLE>You're Evan with the red EG hatch that's always quicker than me right?
Wait, so you have Buddy Clubs, NOT JICs right? How does what you have now compare to the yellows? And how do you like those spring rates on the bumpy Port of B'ham lot?
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From: Seattle, WA / Ann Arbor, MI
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">JIC - https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=878754</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for that link, yeah I'm also worried about JIC USA's customer service. My first e-mail asking about a possible 7k/6k or 8k/7k setup among various other things was responded with something along the lines of "Your car has a double-wishbone suspension," (HOLY CRAP ARE YOU SERIOUS?!) "10k/7k will not feel stiff. 7k/6k is an incorrect setup for your car." Well I'm sorry but 10k/7k will understeer like a bitch for auto-x unless you have some insane rear swaybar action... and the lot we race on (although we just lost it as a race location) is about as smooth as a mediocre-quality public road - stiffer isn't necessarily better and there are lots of people running 300-400 lbs/in springs with great results.
Thanks for that link, yeah I'm also worried about JIC USA's customer service. My first e-mail asking about a possible 7k/6k or 8k/7k setup among various other things was responded with something along the lines of "Your car has a double-wishbone suspension," (HOLY CRAP ARE YOU SERIOUS?!) "10k/7k will not feel stiff. 7k/6k is an incorrect setup for your car." Well I'm sorry but 10k/7k will understeer like a bitch for auto-x unless you have some insane rear swaybar action... and the lot we race on (although we just lost it as a race location) is about as smooth as a mediocre-quality public road - stiffer isn't necessarily better and there are lots of people running 300-400 lbs/in springs with great results.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White98LS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You're Evan with the red EG hatch that's always quicker than me right?
Wait, so you have Buddy Clubs, NOT JICs right? How does what you have now compare to the yellows? And how do you like those spring rates on the bumpy Port of B'ham lot?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I knew you were on HT somewhere, Derek
....
I love these dampers. Really short stroke and a huge valve and they can handle some pretty aggressive rates. Got too good of a deal on them too- got them from a local importer off a CTR, coilovers were BRAND NEW.,...for 350 bucks! Can't get AGX's for that
.
The yellows were a great setup, I was running 400 front 500 rear on those. I'd still run them, but got such a good deal on these, I gave my old setup to my brother and run this now.
Spring rates are great. I was driving about 850 miles a week also, as the car sits- 90% gutted, AP roll bar, and usually a Evo2 seat(need to make a new bracket tho), and daily driving is wonderful. Even on bumpy/uneven roads, the car is still very controllable and predictable.
Wait, so you have Buddy Clubs, NOT JICs right? How does what you have now compare to the yellows? And how do you like those spring rates on the bumpy Port of B'ham lot?</TD></TR></TABLE>I knew you were on HT somewhere, Derek
....I love these dampers. Really short stroke and a huge valve and they can handle some pretty aggressive rates. Got too good of a deal on them too- got them from a local importer off a CTR, coilovers were BRAND NEW.,...for 350 bucks! Can't get AGX's for that
.The yellows were a great setup, I was running 400 front 500 rear on those. I'd still run them, but got such a good deal on these, I gave my old setup to my brother and run this now.
Spring rates are great. I was driving about 850 miles a week also, as the car sits- 90% gutted, AP roll bar, and usually a Evo2 seat(need to make a new bracket tho), and daily driving is wonderful. Even on bumpy/uneven roads, the car is still very controllable and predictable.
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Cool, I'm probably going to go with 350/325 rates and tinker from there. That's such a killer deal on the Buddy Clubs!
I pretty much decided on the GC/Koni setup but I have no idea what length springs to get. I'm planning on about 1.75-2" lowering in front and 1.3-1.5" in back... any idea? I'm going to call them tomorrow and see what they have to say so I can order them up. Also I'm not sure which exact Konis and GCs to get in order for them to fit with each other correctly. Hopefully it'll all get worked out.
I pretty much decided on the GC/Koni setup but I have no idea what length springs to get. I'm planning on about 1.75-2" lowering in front and 1.3-1.5" in back... any idea? I'm going to call them tomorrow and see what they have to say so I can order them up. Also I'm not sure which exact Konis and GCs to get in order for them to fit with each other correctly. Hopefully it'll all get worked out.
Just get the Koni Yellows that are the proper fitment for the car. Then order the correct GC set for your car and specify the correct model to go along with the Koni shocks. Since the perches are adjustable, you do not need a custom length spring. They have plenty of adjustment. I lowered mine about 2 inches and there was plenty more room to drop. Also, there are different perches on the Konis. Mine came with 3 different perch settings. One was stock and the other two were about an inch above and below stock. I used the stock spring perch height. You can't hardly screw it up. Install is simple. Do it yourself.
id serously suggest uping those rates fromt he get go.
i just installed 380f/450r and koni yellows.
the car sticks great and is well balanced (haven't experanced understeer yet but we will see). its not tail happy either it just sticks to the corner. My only problem is there is still to much weight transfer up front.
i think after this upcoming HPDE event im going to move to something like 425f-500r and see how that is
side note- i have a 19mm rear sway and no sway up front
again this is just a suggestion, but i think you will be unhappy from the get go with those low of spring rates.
what you have to remeber is the yellows are a kick *** damper and they can handle the higher spring rates fine.
i just installed 380f/450r and koni yellows.
the car sticks great and is well balanced (haven't experanced understeer yet but we will see). its not tail happy either it just sticks to the corner. My only problem is there is still to much weight transfer up front.
i think after this upcoming HPDE event im going to move to something like 425f-500r and see how that is
side note- i have a 19mm rear sway and no sway up front
again this is just a suggestion, but i think you will be unhappy from the get go with those low of spring rates.
what you have to remeber is the yellows are a kick *** damper and they can handle the higher spring rates fine.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> My only problem is there is still to much weight transfer up front.
i think after this upcoming HPDE event im going to move to something like 425f-500r and see how that is
.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm running a GSR front sway...and love it! Try running maybe an Si/EX front bar...21 mm
i think after this upcoming HPDE event im going to move to something like 425f-500r and see how that is
.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm running a GSR front sway...and love it! Try running maybe an Si/EX front bar...21 mm
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">id serously suggest uping those rates fromt he get go.
i just installed 380f/450r and koni yellows.
the car sticks great and is well balanced (haven't experanced understeer yet but we will see). its not tail happy either it just sticks to the corner. My only problem is there is still to much weight transfer up front.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I dunno about that. I started with 350/450 in my DC2 and it sucked on the street around here. It's my daily driver and I just could not tolerate it. I was nearly getting airborne over some of the bumps on LA freeways.
Now I have 350/300 and I can live with it. Won't be as fun on the track though.
i just installed 380f/450r and koni yellows.
the car sticks great and is well balanced (haven't experanced understeer yet but we will see). its not tail happy either it just sticks to the corner. My only problem is there is still to much weight transfer up front.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I dunno about that. I started with 350/450 in my DC2 and it sucked on the street around here. It's my daily driver and I just could not tolerate it. I was nearly getting airborne over some of the bumps on LA freeways.
Now I have 350/300 and I can live with it. Won't be as fun on the track though.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fidracer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I dunno about that. I started with 350/450 in my DC2 and it sucked on the street around here. It's my daily driver and I just could not tolerate it. I was nearly getting airborne over some of the bumps on LA freeways.
Now I have 350/300 and I can live with it. Won't be as fun on the track though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do you have the typical GC/Koni setup? What swaybar setup do you have? How easy/hard is it to get the tail "active"? As Emerika can attest to, my car is surprisingly neutral (although still too much understeer) considering the spring rates and sways I'm running. I think it has a lot to do with the extra weight in the rear of an Integra vs. a Civic hatch, plus I've taken a lot of weight off the front and little off the rear.
At any rate, I ordered GCs and Konis, stock 380 F rates and bought some 350 springs for the rears. It will be a pretty significant change from now, and from there I'll see whether or not I want higher rates or more rear bias.
I dunno about that. I started with 350/450 in my DC2 and it sucked on the street around here. It's my daily driver and I just could not tolerate it. I was nearly getting airborne over some of the bumps on LA freeways.
Now I have 350/300 and I can live with it. Won't be as fun on the track though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do you have the typical GC/Koni setup? What swaybar setup do you have? How easy/hard is it to get the tail "active"? As Emerika can attest to, my car is surprisingly neutral (although still too much understeer) considering the spring rates and sways I'm running. I think it has a lot to do with the extra weight in the rear of an Integra vs. a Civic hatch, plus I've taken a lot of weight off the front and little off the rear.
At any rate, I ordered GCs and Konis, stock 380 F rates and bought some 350 springs for the rears. It will be a pretty significant change from now, and from there I'll see whether or not I want higher rates or more rear bias.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fidracer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I dunno about that. I started with 350/450 in my DC2 and it sucked on the street around here. It's my daily driver and I just could not tolerate it. I was nearly getting airborne over some of the bumps on LA freeways.
Now I have 350/300 and I can live with it. Won't be as fun on the track though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Weiurd, I have driven mne 4k miles around town then up to Michigan and Boston. Those are some of the worst roads in the US and I thought they were fine. Now I am on 400 fr/ 500 rr springs and it is still fine. Ehh I suppose comfort is all subjective.
I dunno about that. I started with 350/450 in my DC2 and it sucked on the street around here. It's my daily driver and I just could not tolerate it. I was nearly getting airborne over some of the bumps on LA freeways.
Now I have 350/300 and I can live with it. Won't be as fun on the track though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Weiurd, I have driven mne 4k miles around town then up to Michigan and Boston. Those are some of the worst roads in the US and I thought they were fine. Now I am on 400 fr/ 500 rr springs and it is still fine. Ehh I suppose comfort is all subjective.
with koni yellow if you have it set on the right stiffens it makes for a great ride granted you are up there in the lbs so don't be expecting a ****** cady ride but IMO its fine you feel the bumbs but the koni's handle it fine
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Right on. This might be kind of a dumb question but the yellows have three spring perches if I'm not mistaken. Which one should I use with the coilovers? I'll probably want it at 1.75" lowering in front and 1.5" in back, give or take a quarter inch. Of course you can adjust up and down with the sleeves but I want the right amount of preload. Any idea?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White98LS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Right on. This might be kind of a dumb question but the yellows have three spring perches if I'm not mistaken. Which one should I use with the coilovers? I'll probably want it at 1.75" lowering in front and 1.5" in back, give or take a quarter inch. Of course you can adjust up and down with the sleeves but I want the right amount of preload. Any idea?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Normal Koni Sport s will have two perch grooves on the front and three on the rear. Top front groove and middle rear groove are the stock ones. If you are using a threaded sleeve system, you can start it on any perch location dependng on the length of your spring and where on the threading the perch sits when the car is at the desired height. Preload and ride height are integral and no seperate so the height that the perch is at is the height that the perch is at regardless how low or high the sleeve starts unless you are too far to either end and running out of threading.
Normal Koni Sport s will have two perch grooves on the front and three on the rear. Top front groove and middle rear groove are the stock ones. If you are using a threaded sleeve system, you can start it on any perch location dependng on the length of your spring and where on the threading the perch sits when the car is at the desired height. Preload and ride height are integral and no seperate so the height that the perch is at is the height that the perch is at regardless how low or high the sleeve starts unless you are too far to either end and running out of threading.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White98LS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Right on. This might be kind of a dumb question but the yellows have three spring perches if I'm not mistaken. Which one should I use with the coilovers? I'll probably want it at 1.75" lowering in front and 1.5" in back, give or take a quarter inch. Of course you can adjust up and down with the sleeves but I want the right amount of preload. Any idea?</TD></TR></TABLE>
well with mine it i had to go with the up top, this option is no longer availible from GC (maybe if enough people call and request it could be though)
well with mine it i had to go with the up top, this option is no longer availible from GC (maybe if enough people call and request it could be though)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White98LS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Right on. This might be kind of a dumb question but the yellows have three spring perches if I'm not mistaken. Which one should I use with the coilovers? I'll probably want it at 1.75" lowering in front and 1.5" in back, give or take a quarter inch. Of course you can adjust up and down with the sleeves but I want the right amount of preload. Any idea?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would recommend using the "stock" perch height. Even though the directions that come with the Konis suck, figuring out which perch is "stock" is very easy. You should have plenty of adjustability.
I would recommend using the "stock" perch height. Even though the directions that come with the Konis suck, figuring out which perch is "stock" is very easy. You should have plenty of adjustability.
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