Bought a few rolls of window tint for the Crx. Just need help on how to install it all.
I really dont even know where to start, you have to clean the windown the squeegee it on, I just dont know

Also one thing, my Crx rear window is HUGE so you have to use 2 pieces, can they overlap or they have to be ******* exactly perfect?

ANy advise is great and would a bunch

Hope others can use this as well, and wont get locked since it serves some security purposes, and we all know, our cars get snagged easy

 

just my .02 but window tint is one of the few things I pay to have done, along with alignments, thats about it. I tried to do it once on my old 87 CRX and had disasterous results.

 

Window tinting is easy. getting it perfect with no bubbles is a pain.
I've done it TWICE and never again. I'd rather pay now to do it right 1 time

But if you want to try since you have the tint, go for it. You can always remove it

here's a few tips.

measure and cut the tint on the OUTSIDE of the glass before actually putting it on the inside.

Use new razor blades to cut the tint so it won't snag while cutting.

Use a dillution of water and a little Windex for the tint. The Windex has ammonia that'll help in drying

For the back glass def. use 2 pieces. and do not cut across your defrost lines (if you have them) the back glass pieces should be as close as perfect as you can before applying.

Hope that helps, thats all I can remember

 

uhh you shoulda bought a bigger piece for the rear both my crxs were done with 1 piece at a shop though. if you're using cheap window tint man forget it go pay to have it done couldnt be more than 80bux at the most.

 

Um ya it is more than 80 bucks. I was actually gonna get it done but I got 2 quotes for 175+ for 5 windows of limo tint, so I grabbed what the auto guy at Napa said was really good stuuf and a soft rubber squeegee

I just dont know how to apply it

Like After I unroll it do I have to peel the back off or something? Then just stick it on and work it with the squeugee, like I just dont know how its done

BTW- 3 rolls of 5% limo tint cost me under 38 bucks so I dont care if I get a bubble or 2

Any help app

 

READ MY POST!!! and yes there is a clear layer that you need to take off. that side is to the glass

 

$175?????? thats a ******* rip .....over here i get mine done for $80 if i actually had to pay

 

okay, first off, do not use windex w/water mix, anything with ammonia in it will make your tint turn purple when the sun hits it. Use baby shampoo w/water (not very much shampoo), put in in a spray bottle..

the front two are pretty straight forward, just lay the tint on the outside, trim to fit, and spray the glass on the inside, peel backing off tint, and lay it down, squegee out water as you go, be careful not to crease the tint because those do not come out. make sure you keep the tint and the window wet until you squegee it.

on the rear windows you have to trim to fit.. then you must use a heat gun to shrink the tint to fit the curves of the window. Do not use a lot of heat because it will burn the tint very very easily. once you get each side shrinked down, you apply just like you did the front two.

for the rear, since you have two pieces, its best to match the pieces up right on top of a defroster line, that way you cannot see it. you must cut to fit on the rear, then shrink. Do one piece at a time, and be very careful not to cut your defroster lines on the inside of the glass.

anyway, if i'm a bit vague, pm me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vitrox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">okay, first off, do not use windex w/water mix, anything with ammonia in it will make your tint turn purple when the sun hits it. Use baby shampoo w/water (not very much shampoo), put in in a spray bottle..

the front two are pretty straight forward, just lay the tint on the outside, trim to fit, and spray the glass on the inside, peel backing off tint, and lay it down, squegee out water as you go, be careful not to crease the tint because those do not come out. make sure you keep the tint and the window wet until you squegee it.

on the rear windows you have to trim to fit.. then you must use a heat gun to shrink the tint to fit the curves of the window. Do not use a lot of heat because it will burn the tint very very easily. once you get each side shrinked down, you apply just like you did the front two.

for the rear, since you have two pieces, its best to match the pieces up right on top of a defroster line, that way you cannot see it. you must cut to fit on the rear, then shrink. Do one piece at a time, and be very careful not to cut your defroster lines on the inside of the glass.

anyway, if i'm a bit vague, pm me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thatis what I was going to say

 

So all I really do is spray the window nice and good with the water/shampoo

Take my precut piece of tint with the backing still on, peel off the back and put it in place where I want it to go, take the squeegee and go to town to take out all the water

Why would I have to use a heat gun on the back window, couldnt I just use a razor blade after I get all the water pushed out with the squeegee to the edges and trim it off?

Is there a certain ammount of time I have to leave the windows up/inside?

Thanks so far

 

I had mine done by a friend of a friend in San Diego for all the windows except the windshield for $60. This guy made it look easy. He use one piece for the rear window. I saw him lay the piece of tint on the out side of the window and used a heat gun and got it flat against the window. He was using squeegee to work out the wrinkles and when he saw that he had no more wrinkles, he opened the hatch and prepped the inside of the window and sprayed it and peeled the protective coat off the tint and worked the tint on the inside of the window. I bet it's not as easy as it looked but practice on the smaller window first. So if you mess up, you don't waste as much.

 

push down the rubber trim at the bottom of your windows to make it so you can tint below the bottom of your glass.

You must use a heat gun on the back window unless you'd prefer to have lots and lots of bubbles in your tint. without shrinking it will not go on without bubbles and many flaws.

I suggest leaving the windows up a minimum of 3 days to prevent the tint from peeling up.

once again, if you have anymore questions, ask away.

 

You seem to know your stuff

When shaping with the heat gun don't use much heat and when you're shaping, use a WET TOWEL to shape with. It absorbs the excess heat and gives you something to use other than a hand or a squeegee to shape the piece for the glass, which you should be able to get in one piece on the rear if you're willing to waste a piece of tint to practice on.

 

When applying the tint, also keep the tint itself wet while you squeegee. Not just the window surface itself, it'll help the sg glide across the surface more.

 

i work in a shop that does tinting.. I personally don't tint, i work in the stereo portion of the shop.. but the guy that does the tinting has taught me plenty.

 

Hopefully Ill be abel to do it tomorrow, raining all day today. Not gonna be able to use a heat gun though

Any other tips

 

yah, get a heat gun.. trust me, you can not tint a curved window without heat, period.

 

http://www.diynet.com/diy/ab_w....html

Umm ya you can, even a movie on that link going through everything

Thats how I was thinkig it is done, have no idea why you would use heat

 

That webpage doesn't show you how to tint a curved hatch glass, you'll see why everyone that's done it says to use a heat gun to mold the tint. This is how the pros do it, not joe-diy that webpage is geared twards, and doing it their way it'll look DIY. Heat guns are cheap and I've found so much use for mine, go to harbor freight and get one so you can do it right.

 

whats the difference of curved windows? Its still just placing the tint on and working out the water/bubbles

I can see a problem with the defroster lines though with everything not coming out

I dont see the purpose of a heat gun though, like why would I use a heat gun? Im not shrinking anything, im just sticking

 

think of it this way, the glass is curved and the tint is flat.. how do you manage to get a flat object into a curved one without molding it in there?
thats what the heat is for, you have to shrink the tint onto the curves otherwise you will have bubbles (and lots of em).
heat guns are only like $20 if you get a cheapo one, and thats all you really need.

i'm sure you could get the tint to lay on there without heating it, but you would have to cut the crap outta it to not have any bubbles, but then you would have cut lines. Its way easier to use heat, thats how all the professional tinters do it.

 

First off, I work in the vinyl graphics and tinting industry. Tinting is not something that I recommend to the novice. But if you absolutely must give it a try, do it on the windows that *DO NOT* have defroster lines. That way if you get fed up with it, you don't risk destroying the defroster lines when you rip it off. Our 14 yr old defroster lines are quite delicate and brittle. I have seen numerous cars with destroyed defroster lines because the owner thought that they would give it a try first before taking it to the pro's.

 

I think my defroster lines are pretty much fucked anyways form the last owner. They look all won like he washed them with bleach or hit them with a roazor blade anyways

I cany see out the back anyways, 2 inverted masse subs and a nitrous bottle ontop of a 9 cube box

I just dont want anyone else to see that lol

 

Give it a go then. Tinting is a bit of an art. We can give you all the tips in the world, but in the end you just have to do it to get the feel of it. Don't be upset if it doesn't work out the first time you try...but if it does, rejoice! :D

 

You can absolutely do it without the heat gun, but you're going to have to make a lot of relief cuts in the tint in order for it to take the convex shape without creating a large bubble in each corner. With the heat gun you minimize the amount of relief cutting for corners by pre-shaping the tint to the convex. If you still don't understand the issue involved with curved glass versus straight glass, take a bowel and a piece of paper. Cover the inside of the bowl with the paper without making a bunch of big pockets. Your glass isn't just curved, it's convexed inwards like a bowl is. Make sense now? Spend the $20 and get the heat gun and do it right