Well my rex has had some primer all over it and junk and I wanted to get it off. What would be the best way to get primer off. It was put on without any other work done to it (just sprayed on) and just drive off. Supposibly. Need help thanks

 

Are you going to get it painted afterwards or are you trying to salvage the paint underneat the primer (I'm confused) your best bet is to grab the sandpaper (an electric sander is preferred unless you want to kill your arms with the sanding you'll need to do) and get that thing to smooth, free it of any dirt and stuff, reprime the car and do wetsanding on raised areas between coats (if your going for a decent job you'll want a couple of coats at least). Then take it to a booth and paint it (or take it to a paint shop and have them paint it, depends on your comfort level and cash situation).

Hopefully, I've Helped?¿?

 

Significantly. I was trying to remove anything I can. My rents suggested that I somehow sandblast the whole thing down to bare metal and go from there.

 

if you're going to paint it just get a palm sander and go to town.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx_88_si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you're going to paint it just get a palm sander and go to town.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have to do the same although I just want new paint.

 

Coo. All this cheap *** primer has to come off before I do all my body work, reprimer it and throw on a coat of championship white to match what is done to the gutted interior.

 

I am painting mine a very glossy black. Just cant seem to find a paint catalog to order from.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ImportRacr05 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Significantly. I was trying to remove anything I can. My rents suggested that I somehow sandblast the whole thing down to bare metal and go from there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't sandblast....if anything, get it media blasted.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jonathan_EH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Don't sandblast....if anything, get it media blasted. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Aren't they the same thing? Blasting is blasting AFAIK. The "media" you blast just determines how abrasive the procedure is.
Some media is also reusable. Sand is a type or media as well as steel grit, plastic chips, glass chips....etc.

What media are you suggesting he use?

 

Yes.. I am curious.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4drEF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Aren't they the same thing? Blasting is blasting AFAIK. The "media" you blast just determines how abrasive the procedure is.
Some media is also reusable. Sand is a type or media as well as steel grit, plastic chips, glass chips....etc.

What media are you suggesting he use?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You're right.

Blasting is blasting (procedure wise), but SANDblasting is not something you want to do on a surface that you want to look smooth after paint.

The sand will peen the surface and make it rippled and kind of wavy.

If you're doing an entire strip job, walnut shells or dry ice have been known to work very well.

Just stay away from the sand!

 

I just used some airplane remover or something like that it was an acid and took primer RIGHT off.

 

best bet... get sanding

 

Nah I got it.... It was cake.

 

Stay away from any blasting if the engine and interior are still on the frame. You will find the sand, (or glass or whatever you are using) in the vents and engine for months on end.

If you primered it with rattle can primer, you need to take that stuff off and use some good stuff. Best thing, in my opinion, would be to chemically strip it, or DA sanded right off. Be carefull if you sand to not wave your panels (especially the hood and top)

Then go get yourself a good zinc phosphate primer (metal wash some call it) and spray where you sanded through the metal. Then a good 2k primer and spraypaint it. Note that if you sand it, make sure to go over the entire car with 400 grit paper (no need to wet sand) to ensure that you have not missed any spot. Get in those cracks, edges and such.

A note on wet sanding. Wet sanding is useless when painting a car. If you have sanded your primer with 500 grit paper and sanded in the same direction, the 2 coats of base should hide any scratches that you may have created. Also, when you apply clear, thoses scratches will be even less evident. JMHO

fs

 

Damn one of you should make a tutorial for the correct way to paint a car. I would read the whole thing. I am about ready to experiment on the old car and see how I do. If it comes out ok then I will do it on the 91. Let me know if there is anything I should know before I start painting.

 

Speaking of primer - I dont know of any shops that still use primer. Most every place uses sealer now.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4drEF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Speaking of primer - I dont know of any shops that still use primer. Most every place uses sealer now.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Where can you get sealer?????

 

I guess I should throw in my two cents;

"media" blasting is using some other material than sand. Almond shells is some times used, as an example.

The problem with sand blasting is that it's hard to not heat up the metal surface (thin Honda body shells), and that can lead to distorting the metal!

Sand from sand blasting gets EVERYWHERE!. It gets into little crevices and likes to come out when you are doing your final paint job (trust me here).

Chemical paint removers also like to hide in crevices and can cause the new paint in that area to never harden.

Sanding by hand is your friend. Buy a package of 220 wet/dry from an automotive paint supply shop and a pair of sanding blocks. One should be the normal rubber ones that everybody has seen. The other should be a "long-block" and uses the paper full length (11 1/2" long?). When the paper goes "flat", pick up another sheet.

Sand off all the non-honda primer or paint and also the Honda clear coat. I've painted (and sanded) several cars over my extensive years and all I can say is that if you feel wet sanding a car the size of a Honda is too much work, you are a "girly-man".

When talking about primers and sealers, keep in mind that the terms tend to get passed back and forth!!!!!!

A sealer will seal out water and oil from the meterial under it. A primer may not!

The sealer that I like is PPG's "DP" products. It's a sealer!

As for primers, I like PPG K200. I feel it's better to refer to it as a "filler". This is the light brown stuff that most paint shops use before painting (a "baby poop" color). It is NOT a sealer and you could rust clear through it unless you don't coat it with something else (paint) in a reasonable amount of time. That's not to say that you couldn't drive around for a month with it (parked in garage at night) uncoated, but dang, I've seen cars drive around that way for years. This stuff fills VERY well and is "bliss" to sand.

Another point (since I'm on a diatribe), you are an oily pig! (I am also) When wet sanding, the oils in your hands dry out and they are ok. But, you have to be real careful that nobody else touches the car or that any other part of your body touches it. The oil can prevent the paint from flowing correctly. As an example, I once sanded down a hood and then carried it to the back yard to paint it. When carrying it, I rested it against my stomach and that area got oil on it. This led to paint problems in that area.

It's the little things that you have to think about!

Here is a link to a page that I wrote while working on a Chevelle web site;

http://www.chevelles.com/tools/fmt1.html

Wes

 

Daym.. Thanks guys. Its really been a help. I tried doing my hood... took forever. As soon as the motor gets dropped in, its going right to the body shop to get prepped and then right to another for the actual paintjob.

 

"sealer" is primer, it's called primer sealer. It's usually used on top of primer to prevent bleeding of the primer's pigment into the paint. It also seals rust out of the primer. That's why when you're sanding on most cars you end up hitting two different layers of primer.