I have a friend who has an 88 accord that seems to not like running.

If he's driving on the highway or constant driving it runs great, but if he gets into stop and go traffic or short distances from time to time the car will lose RPM and stall out. It will start back up again but he has to keep giving it gas to keep the car running.

This is a carbuerated engine so I'm a little stumped. The fuel pump and cat recently replaced. Only time he throws a cel is when the car stalls out.

 

I almost kinda hate to ask this due to the simplicity - after all the reading I have done here I am sure you know what you are doing - but I have had, oh, about a dozen people bring in various cars and trucks complaining about that very same, exact problem. While there are any number of reasons for stalling under stop and go conditions, especially if it is intermittent or does not show any variables due to weather, I have always started with the fuel filter(s) - a leading cause of intermittent stalling that is easily overlooked, especially under the conditions you described. Vacuum lines and tranny fluid are other culprits I have easliy fixed for poor souls that were pulling their hair out thinking about new valves/seals/engines, LOL.

I sincerely hope I have not insulted your intelligence, here... just that I have had plenty of times where I got flustered and forgot to look at the little things... sometimes we assume things, and other times the solution is just right there... I'm not taking you for a roob, just wondering if you began with the most obvious!!!

If so, I'll just go shut up and go back under my rock, LOL

 

need more info.

does it stall when hot, cold or all the time?

Is it difficult to start when it stalls? meaning, do you have to crank it a bit longer that usual?

Once it is started, in order to maintain idle, you state that you have to give it gas. When you do that, is the car sputtering, belching, running rough????

When it stalls, are there any other components running at the same time, like the AC or something?

Of course, when diagnosing a problem like this, new spark plugs, distributor cap, wires, fuel filter and air filter are in order if it was not done in the last 2 years or so.

Then look at the carb. First is it idleing at the correct rpm?

How do the plugs look like: rich, lean, ok???

If i recall correctly, there is supposed to be a fuel cut-off solenoid on the carb. How does the ground look like?

Then, you will have to test for vacuum leaks like Richard said. Grab a can of wd-40 and, with the car idling, spray some on the vacuum hoses. If the idle moves, then you got a leak.

fs


then

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by richardh247 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I almost kinda hate to ask this due to the simplicity - after all the reading I have done here I am sure you know what you are doing

</TD></TR></TABLE>No offense taken thats why I asked Don't worry about my intellegence I know I'm smart seriously thats why we are all on this board to ask and learn. My accord is FI so carbed motors are a totally different breed to me. Rather than tell him something and be wrong I will let you guys do it for me...LOL thanks for all the responces. I will keep you posted on whats going on.

 

My 1988 Accord (manual trans and carb as well) does the same sort of thing. When the engine is hot, or after I drive on the highway for a long time, it seems that it idles extremely low when I let off the gas .... it only stalled a few times but it usually just idles extremely low. I've just gotten into the habit of tapping the gas pedal until it seems to stabilize.

Not sure if this is the same problem, but if it is then your friend isn't the only one.