Thanks to Geoff at Full Race for building this for my car:

http://www.we-todd-did-racing....D.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing....D.jpg

 

damn u man!!! that kit is soooo hot....im jealous ..when everything is finished post up more pics and maybe a video if u can host it...

is your bottom end built???? i know u dont wanna waste that $7k on the kit and i hope u have aem ems too

 

::nuts:: oh god i love that manifold. what kind of power are you making??
id love to see a plot or some vids!!

 

no the motor is still stock while another one is being built. I will be running low boost for now until the motor is complete. When that happens I will switch over to AEM. Right now, the car will run emanage. The stock motor will hold up for now and Ill post the plots to show that. I rather invest the time to get the right built motor rather than jump on a band wagon like others have opted to do. The built motor should be complete towards the end of the year.

 

Damn! That looks awesome. Kinda off-topic, but did you have your intake manifold powder coated along with your valve cover?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blues2k3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The stock motor will hold up for now and Ill post the plots to show that. The built motor should be complete towards the end of the year.</TD></TR></TABLE>

too bad you have to wait 6 months, how many lbs of boost are you going to run on the stock engine, then how many lbs of boost on the built one?

 

the valve cover and intake are painted. With the stock motor we will push 8 psi on 116 and 35 shots max. Once the motor is built and the rear is "modified" along with a transmission brace then I will take it up to maybe mid 20s on boost alone. I had a chance to check out Leevon F20C head and was very impressed so the next step would be to get the back up motor head complete and move forward....

 

The s2k is a heavy car. What kind of 1/4 times are you lQQking for?

 

damn bro, tahts pimp status!

definately keep us updated with the car !!!

 

Im not looking for anything in particular with the 1/4 mile times considering the motor is still stock at this moment...

Here are a few more pics:

http://www.we-todd-did-racing....D.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing....D.jpg

 

i see u didnt go with the entire full-race kit...did u just buy the manifold??? and how much did your turbo kit cost ya?? i like Geoff turbo kit...but his price is $7000 for the entire kit installed...

"The price of the s2000 kit is 7000$ installed. We only sell the installed as it is an extremely difficult kit to install, requiring the relocation of many items as well as the extension of oil filter lines."

Full Race Equal Length Manifold (A/C compatible)
Full Race 3" Downpipe 4-bolt
Full Race "Back Door" Intercooler (20" x 11" x 3")
Full Race Turbo (T3/T67)
Tial Wastegate (44mm)
Tial 50mm Blow Off Valve
Full Race Custom 2.5" -&gt; 3.0" Aluminum Intercooler Piping
Full Race Oil Line Kit
Full Race Oil Filter Relocation Kit
Full Race Battery Relocation kit
Manifold Heat Shields
Full Race Vacuum Line Kit
Silicon Couplers/Hose Clamps
Full Race High Pressure Fuel Pump
Odyssey battery

 

Project SSAp1 please email/ IM me about your coilovers, Unfortunatly Im unable to PM you I guess cause Im a Noob on this Board
Sorry to HiJack the Post..
email, MissMichelle219@optonline.net
AIM: GoBrushYurTeeth

 

this was not a kit I put on the car. I took bits and pieces from all different vendors in order to put it together. The turbo is a GT35R from Garrett. The intercooler is from PWR, the manifold is from Full Race, the oil relocator is from Stage 6, Tial wastegate, Apex racing blow off valve ( the Apex racing wastegate was too big), etc, etc. The installation was plagued with many difficulties due to space concerns. SPI did most of the turbo installation and fabrication.

not a problem about the hijacking Michelle

 

Here, let me help you with the pics

 

thanks Henry heres a few more of the finish product, please help with these too, thanks:

http://www.we-todd-did-racing....D.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing....D.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing....D.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing....D.jpg

 

Here you go again. Enjoy

 

man that is raunchy

 

blues2k3,
you'll want to change the way you've routed the high pressure oil line off of the block under the vtech solenoid. In this picture:

there is a brass T off of the block. The added weight of the brass T and the fittings attached to it will stress the threads on the alum over time and you'll develop an oil leak. The proper way is run an oil line off the block to the shock tower or another part of the car away from the engine that is free of vibration and T your fittings at that location.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vapor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">blues2k3,
you'll want to change the way you've routed the high pressure oil line off of the block under the vtech solenoid. In this picture:

there is a brass T off of the block. The added weight of the brass T and the fittings attached to it will stress the threads on the alum over time and you'll develop an oil leak. The proper way is run an oil line off the block to the shock tower or another part of the car away from the engine that is free of vibration and T your fittings at that location. </TD></TR></TABLE>

There's an even simpler way of using Tuner Toys block fittings which you can get on homemadeturbo.com. They're made from Stainless which will not cause problems like brass and eliminating the mess of running lines to the firewall.

I've used a couple of them and never had a problem with them. But also I've used brass tee's and never had a leak either.

 

this is so funny, there was actually a very slight leak there and I went to tighten it and the stress caused the thread to break off inside the motor. After some careful surgery with a drill out bit and a very small wrench I was able to remove it. I did use another brass unit for now which was lighter but I am not a fan of brass fitting either. I will try to locate a stainless unit as you guys suggested. Thanks a bunch for the advice...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blues2k3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is so funny, there was actually a very slight leak there and I went to tighten it and the stress caused the thread to break off inside the motor. After some careful surgery with a drill out bit and a very small wrench I was able to remove it. I did use another brass unit for now which was lighter but I am not a fan of brass fitting either. I will try to locate a stainless unit as you guys suggested. Thanks a bunch for the advice...</TD></TR></TABLE>

you can go either route, either run a line to the shocktower or other location, or run a lighter T junction at the block. IMO, running a line away from the block and mounting the T junction in an area free of engine vibration is a safer solution.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Repost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

There's an even simpler way of using Tuner Toys block fittings which you can get on homemadeturbo.com. They're made from Stainless which will not cause problems like brass and eliminating the mess of running lines to the firewall.

I've used a couple of them and never had a problem with them. But also I've used brass tee's and never had a leak either. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The problem of T'ing lines off the block, even with a lighter T junction is that the lines running off of the T also add to the weight that the threads in the block have to support. The F20C is known to have a lot of vibration, enough that can cause nuts and bolts to back out if not installed properly. Depending on how hard you drive your car and in what application, drag strip, street, or track, the threads will eventually give way if not installed to reduce weight to vibrate.

 

that entire set up looks amazing

 

I checked that website for a lighter piece but I was not able to find that piece?

 

It's a monster!!
GoGoGo

 

Here's what it looks like





Here's where you can get it:

http://www.homemadeturbo.com/f...17234


These will definitely hold up to the vibrations of the motor and support the weight of the pressure sensor. This unit is also alot more compact than using brass tees and has an additional port for a pressure gauge.


I don't think the piece is much lighter, its just made of better material than brass.