Just started idleling rough at about 1800 to 2000 RPM only. all other RPMs/Speeds are fine? I have 160K on the car but its well taken care of. I had the timing belt/seals etc all changed at about 100K. I did change the plugs a year ago but not the wires or cap? I dont really want to play the guessing game. that could get expensive. Just looking for anyone who has experienced this before and might know what it is and how I can get it fixed. I did just get the oil changed the other day and also dumped some fuel cleaner in the tank. could it be dirty fuel injectors? I have no idea. Please if anyone has some input, I would appriciate it Thanks

 

2000 is a little high for the idle to be set. Do you mean a hesitation at light throttle?

 

Right its not idleing at 2000 RPM its a hesitation at about 2000 RPM also its a automatic trans if that helps and it does this weather its in park or in drive. Its only at about 2000 RPM though? its idles at about 900 rpm that is fine

 

Today I relplaced the Cap Rotor and Wires ( plugs less than 1200 miles ago )and the hesitation at 2000 rpm on acceleration is still there? its not real bad but it never did that before. Im thinking that maybe it may be a clogged fuel injector now? I put some fuel system injector cleaner in it and will fill up with some Amoco High Octane fuel for a few tanks and see what Happens from there. If anyone has an idea of what this problem is or has had the same problem I would appriciate any responce or knowledge about this problem before I dump anymore money into it just guessing. Thanks

 

I run injector/fuel system cleaner through about once every 10 tanks, or 3-5000mi. Helps keep it running well. Give it some time. Put another bottle through on the next tank full. Berryman's B12 or Techron. Pricier ones work better, in my experience. This should clear up your problem.

Running higher octane gas is not necessarily good. Might increase the carbon in your engine, reduce the life of your cat.

Change plugs, cap, rotor and wires every 60K with your major service, as recommended.

 

Sounds like the EGR ports in the intake manifold are clogged.

What happens is that the PCM commands the EGR valve to open at around 1800 RPMs. When the valve opens, the ports that are clogged don't get exhaust gases, but the ones that are not clogged get too much, which causes them to run lean, and as a result misfire. That's roughness that you feel.

To confirm this, disconnect and plug the vacuum line going to the EGR valve, then drive the car.
If the misfire goes away, then you'll need to get those EGR ports cleaned.
Not an overly complicated job if you have some mechanical skills. If not, plan to spend between $150 to $225 depending on the labor rates in your area.

 

Thanks for sharing your knowledge That makes sence to me and I will try that and post the results thanks again

 

Thanks for that advice I didnt know that about the high octane fuels.

 

i would start out with the easy stuff... since you done the cap/wire/rotor

you can check these for free...

ignition timing (borrow a t-light from autozone if they have)
clean/check EGR valve & ports
clean IAC screen
Adjust TB cable
clean TB butterfly
check/inspect spark plugs

there should be a few more free check/inspect you can try before going into buying stuff and playing the "guessing game". but thats all i can think of for now.. gluck.

 

Is there somewhere on here a Post telling me how to clean out the egr ports and do i have to disconnect all kinds of fuel lines etc? I was reading some post and they were very intimadating. If its a matter of disconnecting a vac hose and using a drill bit to clear out the carbon in the ports I think that I can deal with. I changed the cap and rotor and plug wires but if this gets into some tricky stuff I may not be able to do it. Im just trying to find out what I have to do and how much dismanteling etc is involved. I dont want to pay Honda 300 bucks or take it to some shop thats going to rip me off I know I can do this....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lowes2win &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is there somewhere on here a Post telling me how to clean out the egr ports and do i have to disconnect all kinds of fuel lines etc? I was reading some post and they were very intimadating. If its a matter of disconnecting a vac hose and using a drill bit to clear out the carbon in the ports I think that I can deal with. I changed the cap and rotor and plug wires but if this gets into some tricky stuff I may not be able to do it. Im just trying to find out what I have to do and how much dismanteling etc is involved. I dont want to pay Honda 300 bucks or take it to some shop thats going to rip me off I know I can do this....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Have you tried pulling the vacuum line off the EGR valve to see if the problem goes away as a test.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chiovnidca &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Have you tried pulling the vacuum line off the EGR valve to see if the problem goes away as a test.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought there was only like 2-3 lines running to it...shouldn't be that complicated.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VRDrvr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I thought there was only like 2-3 lines running to it...shouldn't be that complicated.

</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just one vacuum line on the valve itself.

 

Mr honda tech...whats an easy way to clean it out or to tell if its bad?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VRDrvr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mr honda tech...whats an easy way to clean it out or to tell if its bad?</TD></TR></TABLE>
A vacuum pump is a good way to test EGR systems. There's a thread here showing how to clean the ports.

 

Yes I did disconnect the EGR vacume line and the problem is gone. To bad I cant just leave it off it runs great again. I found the EGR valve because Honda has a diagram sticker on the inside of the Hood which I found very helpfull. I do believe I found the ports that go into the intake also. they are 4 hoses that go into the intake and then there is a rod or two that runs over the fuel injectors that carrys the vacume from the egr to the intake. Im learning something here, but now I need to know how to clean out that metal vacume routing rod and then the 4 ports if thats what they are? that are going to the intake? I cant find that thread or maybe I dont know what Im looking for, Im also new to ths forum and exactly how it works. also that slow power windon article on the 94 accords also helped me , I have that same problem, it must be with all of them.. How can I post pics of my honda on here? ok enough questions. my main concern is how to clean them ports (and metal routing lines if needed? ) Thanks to all of you who have helped me thru this. I will soon have it fixed hopefully...

 

to clean the egr valve, if you dont have swivel head sockets you might need to remove the fuel rail to give yourself some room if the bolts are rusted tight on there...

but i believe its a 12mm if i remember right, but theres only 2 bolts that hold it down and def. replace the gasket (less than 2$)...

for the egr ports... it it under the metal plate below the fuel rail... youll have to move the fuel rail aside and all that to be able to get to it...