on honda automotive parts.com closest thing i found was key cylinder, ok so what would i need for a new key cylinder


*my car runs/starts fine, but my radio flickers on and off every now and then and fiddlin w/the key always makes it react, car's got lots of miles on it, and the key is loose in there...i may just rewire cd player to constant voltage, and turn it off completely via it's directions

oh yeah linkage....
http://www.hondaautomotivepart...R+KIT

 

I'm not sure about the condition of your actual key cylinder, but I believe the part you need is listed as #7 here:


http://www.slhondaparts.com/br...=true

It's the electrical portion of the switch.

Majestics pictures are to shitty for me to see anymore.

but I believe it's the same # there too.

Listed under "COMBINATION SWITCH"

 

or pull a junkyard one out and use it. You can always have a locksmith re-key to your key

 

99% of the time it is #7 in the pic above. The ignition switch base. The contacts wear out.

Any junkyard one will do. No re-keying necessary since you are keeping your lock cylinder.

Now, if your lock cylinder is acting up like the one in my '88...time for a whole new lock set, unless you don't mind using 2 keys...

I'd start with the switch base. If you've still got a problem, replace the whole switch. You'll need to put some flat blade screwdriver slots in the broken-off heads with a dremel in order to remove the switch assy...

 

thanks peoples i'll try out #7 first and see what it does

the key does wiggle around a lil bit in the keyhole, but it doesn't fall out or anything yet. But then again the key is like 15 or so years old.

I know you might call it rice-fantastic, but since I am getting rid of all exterior keyholes and since this is going bad, I almost thought about the push button starters sitting right where you would put the key in too...I dunno yet though.

 

Yeah, my 88 DX that I refered to above doesn't always totally shut off the ACC position when removing the key. The only way I can tell that it's still stuck in the ACC position is by the radio. You've got to wiggle just right in order to get the key out and not leave it on.

I'm going to replace the whole lock set with junkyard parts. I've been saying that for over a year though...Even with no key from the junkyard, the dealer can cut new keys off the code stamped on the cylinder.

 

Well I decided to fork out the big bucks and buy it new from the stealership. After taxes the ignition switch was $61.00

Here's what's funny, they had two in stock. They were suprised mine lasted this long.

I couldn't really justify that being that much, but I don't want to have to play with it again.

 

ok i'm gettin together a I need to buy this for new exterior bits and i acn't figgure out which parst are for the rubber drip rail moulding! the one's that go along the roof


http://www.slhondaparts.com/br...PANEL

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You are not the only one, my electrical ignition switch(#7 in pic above) went bad on me one day, it started off by smoking alot then, shortly after, i was not able to keep my car running cause it would kill power to the ecu. Good thing my car didnt catch on fire! lol.