Is it necessary to pull the engine to change the timing belt? Or can I just undo the driver's side engine mount and lower/lift that side? Any suggestions on how to prepare for changing the timing belt? Thanks

 

First off, buy this tool.

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/SP-60100.html


Some people will tell you this tool don't work and some will tell you it does. It work perfect for me so I recommend using it. Other people will tell you to use a big impact. You can do it with the motor in the car, don't take the motor out just to do the timing belt.

 

ok well i have air tools but they aren't heavy duty. Did you lower the driver's side of the engine to do it? Or did you lift the driver's side? That tool really looks like it would help a lot. Do places like Autozone rent this tool out? They didn't rent the alternator pulley tool(very similar). Thanks for the help.

 

Actually I had my motor out at the time to replace the front rear cross member (I hit a curb in the winter and messed it up). So mine was extremely easy to do. But I think it would be easier to just lower the driver side a little, I think thats the way other people have done it.

 

oh ok thanks a lot

 

no prob

oh, forgot to mention. I couldn't find anywhere else that sold that tool other than this place and the dealer.

 

oh ok thanks for looking. I'm really dreading this timing belt change but it's got to be done. I'm scared that I'll mess something up but I'm not paying the shop to do it.

 

Its easier if you remove the plastic inner fender liner. Work thru there, alongside the steering knuckle. Don't know '94 for sure, but you'll probably have to put a jack under the oil pan & take off the one engine mount at the belts.

How about buying a Helm repair manual? It'll pay for itself in this ONE job! This website is great, but it's no substitute for having that book. I've seen too many posts that are just plain WRONG, because people were talking about a different year or different car. It's not a real difficult job, but you HAVE to get the cam timing right.

 

Yea I already have a Haynes repair manual and it has a step-by-step in there. I also ordered the retainer plate from that website. Thanks to everyone for the tips. If anyone wants to add their 2 cents, feel free.

 

I just replaced mine a couple of weeks ago, took about 7.5 hours of steady work. Here is a great website http://www.cybertrails.com/~be....html

Helm manual is a great investment, well worth if you plan on keeping the same vehicle for sometime... $64.00 plus shipping

 

Ok you guys are dumb. It's called put an F'ing screwdriver in the teeth of the flywheel good god, you don't need to buy a dam tool to keep the crankshaft from spinning!!! I mean come on even the Haynes manual tells you to do that. Am I seriously the only one here with any common sense?!?

And don't tell me it doesn't work 'cuz I just did it a few weeks back on my own 96 Accord EX and its the same engine. I should also mention I loosened the bolt by hand (with a long *** cheater bar), not with impact tools.

Pissed Off

 

Did u use a long extension to losen your crank bolt? If you don't have a lift, then there isn't enough room and leverage below the car to get good torque to the bolt.

I use a long extension (1/2" 3-4 feet) but it flex like a biatch so it didn't put good torque on the crank bolt. Ended up taking my car to shop to losen the bolt. This is on my 95 v6 accord and it is done.

I will work on my mom's 97 lx accord so I might need ur help.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schmitey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

And don't tell me it doesn't work 'cuz I just did it a few weeks back on my own 96 Accord EX and its the same engine. I should also mention I loosened the bolt by hand (with a long *** cheater bar), not with impact tools.

Pissed Off</TD></TR></TABLE>

your talking about a 1996 car. thats nothing. if you think you can just take the bolt off my 158k 1993 accord with a "long *** cheater bar" come and try. I just used an IR compressor and gun with over 700lbs of tq in reverse and it still was pretty hard to take it off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schmitey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok you guys are dumb. It's called put an F'ing screwdriver in the teeth of the flywheel good god, you don't need to buy a dam tool to keep the crankshaft from spinning!!! I mean come on even the Haynes manual tells you to do that. Am I seriously the only one here with any common sense?!?

And don't tell me it doesn't work 'cuz I just did it a few weeks back on my own 96 Accord EX and its the same engine. I should also mention I loosened the bolt by hand (with a long *** cheater bar), not with impact tools.

Pissed Off</TD></TR></TABLE>

WOW, first off, calm the F*** down. Take a couple deep breathes

Now, I'm not the dumb one for using this tool. I've heard of plenty of people using the screw driver in the flywheel trick and a lot of them have also said it did something bad to the trans housing like crack it or something else. Not all have had this problem but it IS a possibility and therefore not something I would recommend. I would trust a Helms book over a Haynes book any day, and I dought if I'm the only one. Also, I too loosen my bolt with no air tools. I did however have another persons help. One holding the breaker bar on the pulley tool and another holding the breaker bar on the crank bolt. I did use cheater bars as well but still no air tools.

FYI
Next time you don't agree with what someone else has suggested, simply voice your disagreement in a suitable manner. There are a lot of people on this board so there are going to be just as many opinions on how to do things. You think every time someone disagreed with what someone else said they started ranting about how pissed they were? NO

 

Very well put TouringAccord. There's never any need for getting "Pissed Off." If you don't agree with something, voice your opinion and it will be appreciated, unless of course it's actually something that is ridiculously dumb.

 

yea man, ive had that problem lately, ive either been getting mad at what people say, or getting them mad and acting like an *******, its ok to use foul language, it gives HT some character...now stop being sissies and use the tool the man told you to buy !

 

Sorry fellas, I just got pissed off when you tell someone to buy an expensive tool before trying the free alternative. I got anger management issues like 99% of us on the road. Sure I can see how jumping up and down on the cheater bar or turning the starter could damage something, but use common sense.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schmitey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> but use common sense.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah and common sense will tell you to use the right tool. but we are all "dumb" though...

 

haha yea I'm strapped for $ so the cheapest way is the best way. Thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Art Vandeleigh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah and common sense will tell you to use the right tool. but we are all "dumb" though... </TD></TR></TABLE>

You know what you can kiss my ***. There I said it and I didn't even lose my temper.
Go spend fifty bucks on that tool that you don't need, I'm not gonna stop ya.

*Damn they need a symbol for the middle finger, the thumbs up/down doesn't cut it.

 

this thread is becoming stupid. It started out with someone asking for advise and now you got people arguing over what they feel is right or wrong.

Schmitey
Common sense would tell me to spend the $40-50 buck on this tool rather then stick a screw driver into the flywheel and wedge it against the trans housing. Why? Because SOME people have had problems when using this way. I have never heard of someone having those kinds of problems with this tool. The only thing I have heard about this tool is that the bolt still won't come loose, no cracked trans housing or something like that. So yeah, I going to spend a little bit more now then possibly spending a lot more in the end. Now your way might work with no problems for some people but like I said before, I have heard of problems and thats enough for me to say no way. So if you want to take the chance of damaging something then go ahead, but if your going to recommend it to someone else at least inform them of the POSSIBLE problems.

Also, like I said before. You need to relax.

 

yea I think I'm gonna buy that tool just to be safe. Thanks for the advice.

 

I bought the tool. Best $50 I ever spent. Soaked the damn bolt in PB Blaster overnight, put the tool on there attached to a breaker bar and wedged it on the ground (engine was still on pallet). Took another Breaker bar to the bolt and it only took 1 good push with everything I had.

 

I was able to bust the bolt loose on my 1991 Accord DX (85K miles) with breaker bar and cheater bar. It took a few blows from a rubber mallet and some yelling but it came loose.

 

HAHA yea i love the "yelling". I know exactly what you mean....lots of cursing and throwing stuff around. I'll have to invest in that tool or have a shop break it loose for me b/c my air tools are not cutting it. Thanks for the advice.