How to get more torque out of a b16???
How can i get more torque out of a b16? they are only rated at like 111 and i dont want to do i internals.. the b16 doesnt offer much torque... im lookin for idea's on basic bolt ons to help a little bit... thanx
very very hard to increase TQ on that motor with out increasing displacement.most i've ever seen was 120 to the wheels
work on the head.
work on the head.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by letholone »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">very very hard to increase TQ on that motor with out increasing displacement.most i've ever seen was 120 to the wheels
work on the head. </TD></TR></TABLE>
agreed. Buy all the bolt ons, mill the head, mild port, cams, and some sort of engine management.
I like shorter gearing and light flywheels. Gearing is one of the easiest ways to gain torque.
work on the head. </TD></TR></TABLE>
agreed. Buy all the bolt ons, mill the head, mild port, cams, and some sort of engine management.
I like shorter gearing and light flywheels. Gearing is one of the easiest ways to gain torque.
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 842
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From: rigged and ready., WashingtonD.C./FlagstaffAZ/TempeAZ usa
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96turboteg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">easiest way, buy a turbo kit and you are set
. Your not going to make very much torque going allmotor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
. Your not going to make very much torque going allmotor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
milling the head is going to bump up the compression obviously making a little more torque but the jdm engine already has 10.2:1 compresion... so putting more compression on stock internals isnt the best way to go... atleast in my point of view
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkunkCrxSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">milling the head is going to bump up the compression obviously making a little more torque but the jdm engine already has 10.2:1 compresion... so putting more compression on stock internals isnt the best way to go... atleast in my point of view</TD></TR></TABLE>
that makes NO sense.
that makes NO sense.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkunkCrxSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">milling the head is going to bump up the compression obviously making a little more torque but the jdm engine already has 10.2:1 compresion... so putting more compression on stock internals isnt the best way to go... atleast in my point of view</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually the JDM B16 is 10.4:1, but I don't think that is what he has. Also, why would he not want to raise his CR with "stock internals"? There is nothing wrong in doing that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkunkCrxSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How can i get more torque out of a b16? they are only rated at like 111 and i dont want to do i internals.. the b16 doesnt offer much torque... im lookin for idea's on basic bolt ons to help a little bit... thanx </TD></TR></TABLE>
If you are looking for ALOT of torque, you won't find it in the B16. If you just want to make more than what you already have, however, people have mentioned various techniques already that will get you there. If you are looking to achieve it without changing out pistons and rod stroke (which is what I am assuming you mean by not wanting to "do internals") and by staying all motor, your best ways are a lighter flywheel, changing the final drive, going with shorter gears, different camshafts, headwork to increase compression (to include milling, changing the valves to flat bottom ones, welding the combustion chambers, etc.), and running a thinner head gasket.
With bolt-on parts, purchasing a really nice exhaust manifold is a worthy investment. Look into ones like Toda, SMSP, DTR, etc. to see alot of gains. If that is a little rich for your blood, I think the best bang for the buck is the DC Sports JDM 4-1. The only thing is it hangs a little low so be prepared to see some scrapes if your car is low or if you encounter REALLY big speed bumps (like I did at Lowe's-the thing was 6" tall!
). Here is a link to a comparison thread here on H-T for those headers:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=699674
Also, when looking for an intake, cold air intake setups make more torque than short ram setups. Individually, these modifications won't add alot of torque or HP to your setup. When combined together they make for a healthy boost in power. Hope that helped.
Actually the JDM B16 is 10.4:1, but I don't think that is what he has. Also, why would he not want to raise his CR with "stock internals"? There is nothing wrong in doing that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkunkCrxSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How can i get more torque out of a b16? they are only rated at like 111 and i dont want to do i internals.. the b16 doesnt offer much torque... im lookin for idea's on basic bolt ons to help a little bit... thanx </TD></TR></TABLE>
If you are looking for ALOT of torque, you won't find it in the B16. If you just want to make more than what you already have, however, people have mentioned various techniques already that will get you there. If you are looking to achieve it without changing out pistons and rod stroke (which is what I am assuming you mean by not wanting to "do internals") and by staying all motor, your best ways are a lighter flywheel, changing the final drive, going with shorter gears, different camshafts, headwork to increase compression (to include milling, changing the valves to flat bottom ones, welding the combustion chambers, etc.), and running a thinner head gasket.
With bolt-on parts, purchasing a really nice exhaust manifold is a worthy investment. Look into ones like Toda, SMSP, DTR, etc. to see alot of gains. If that is a little rich for your blood, I think the best bang for the buck is the DC Sports JDM 4-1. The only thing is it hangs a little low so be prepared to see some scrapes if your car is low or if you encounter REALLY big speed bumps (like I did at Lowe's-the thing was 6" tall!
). Here is a link to a comparison thread here on H-T for those headers:https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=699674
Also, when looking for an intake, cold air intake setups make more torque than short ram setups. Individually, these modifications won't add alot of torque or HP to your setup. When combined together they make for a healthy boost in power. Hope that helped.
ok i don;t know how many b16's the rest of you guys have gone through but i've went through 3 builds...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkunkCrxSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How can i get more torque out of a b16? they are only rated at like 111 and i dont want to do i internals.. the b16 doesnt offer much torque... im lookin for idea's on basic bolt ons to help a little bit... thanx </TD></TR></TABLE>
more torque means you want more rotating mass...lightening the flywheel does not give you more torque...simple physics...keep your stock flywheel...do not cheange your pulleys...and if you don;t have any keep your stock crank pulley.
as for not wanting to change internals to help...you can try and trade someone your b16 head for a gsr head...it makes more torque. also if your not planning to build the motor i suggest you not go with any bigger of piping than 2.25 for your exhaust...all the 2.5 sizes benefit higher compression motors but not stock bottum end ones.
as for your compression ratio it could be either 10.2 or 10.4. the 10.2 compression came in later model b16's (pr3) and the 2nd gen b16's (p30) came with 10.4 compression.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkunkCrxSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How can i get more torque out of a b16? they are only rated at like 111 and i dont want to do i internals.. the b16 doesnt offer much torque... im lookin for idea's on basic bolt ons to help a little bit... thanx </TD></TR></TABLE>
more torque means you want more rotating mass...lightening the flywheel does not give you more torque...simple physics...keep your stock flywheel...do not cheange your pulleys...and if you don;t have any keep your stock crank pulley.
as for not wanting to change internals to help...you can try and trade someone your b16 head for a gsr head...it makes more torque. also if your not planning to build the motor i suggest you not go with any bigger of piping than 2.25 for your exhaust...all the 2.5 sizes benefit higher compression motors but not stock bottum end ones.
as for your compression ratio it could be either 10.2 or 10.4. the 10.2 compression came in later model b16's (pr3) and the 2nd gen b16's (p30) came with 10.4 compression.
if you want more torque.....increase displacement, thats the only way you will make more torque. any bolton will add a couple of HP, but not really too much torque will be gained.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accorse07 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">more torque means you want more rotating mass...lightening the flywheel does not give you more torque...simple physics...</TD></TR></TABLE>
How does increasing rotating mass give you more torque?
How does increasing rotating mass give you more torque?
you should add a 4-2-1 manifold (heat wrap it) but a good one mugen, dc or spoon, also add a performance de cat exhaust which has all the backboxes (not straight through n1 system), this creates good backpressure, make sure where pipes are bent it doesnt narrow in. Then you should a add a cold air feed, maybe heat wrap the original box and midify it a little, by adding a feed to it from the bumber (if you do this make sure the pipe is same diameter as the pipe feeding into throttle body). Dont buy a cone intake buy a itg or k&n drop in filter, you cant beat the honda design. i have also added some iridium plugs to mine.
i hav not done the manifold and have a poor n1 exhaust and i have rolling road tested 120flb and 167hp (not sir2) but it is all at the top end have gained a small amount bottom end, but pulls hard at top. with the other mods i should be 170hp mark and 124-126flb. not bad for bolt ons. make sure you reset the ecu after the mods and drive steady for 20 mins.
other possible bolt on mods could be larger throttle body, skunk 2 intake manifold(more hp then torque) also buy adjustable fuel pressure regulator to up the fuel, need to take to a pro to setup correctly.
a lighter flywheel does not increaes torque but throttle response, you actually loose torque when changing gear as it has less inertia as it is lighter, the rpm will drop lower when going to next gear up and thats not what you want with a b16. Standard flywheel is fine for street use. A Exedy organic clutch would grip power better then the stock clutch, but the stock clutch is good.
The only place a b16 is poor is accelarating up an incline, but even a teg is poor as it could not pass me up a hill. As long as you drop to the correct gears when racing or passing the b16 has plenty of top end power to keep up with most thing.
if you are launching from the lights normally the car is sloppy and takes time to pickup, to overcome this raise the rpm to 6000 and drop clutch this way you get to to the peak hp and torque quicker giving you good launch. and if you have somone tailling you dip clutch raise rpm to 6500 or so and drop the clutch it should accelerate harder than normal (you will increase clutch wear).
i hav not done the manifold and have a poor n1 exhaust and i have rolling road tested 120flb and 167hp (not sir2) but it is all at the top end have gained a small amount bottom end, but pulls hard at top. with the other mods i should be 170hp mark and 124-126flb. not bad for bolt ons. make sure you reset the ecu after the mods and drive steady for 20 mins.
other possible bolt on mods could be larger throttle body, skunk 2 intake manifold(more hp then torque) also buy adjustable fuel pressure regulator to up the fuel, need to take to a pro to setup correctly.
a lighter flywheel does not increaes torque but throttle response, you actually loose torque when changing gear as it has less inertia as it is lighter, the rpm will drop lower when going to next gear up and thats not what you want with a b16. Standard flywheel is fine for street use. A Exedy organic clutch would grip power better then the stock clutch, but the stock clutch is good.
The only place a b16 is poor is accelarating up an incline, but even a teg is poor as it could not pass me up a hill. As long as you drop to the correct gears when racing or passing the b16 has plenty of top end power to keep up with most thing.
if you are launching from the lights normally the car is sloppy and takes time to pickup, to overcome this raise the rpm to 6000 and drop clutch this way you get to to the peak hp and torque quicker giving you good launch. and if you have somone tailling you dip clutch raise rpm to 6500 or so and drop the clutch it should accelerate harder than normal (you will increase clutch wear).
this ***** funny.
you have to understand where torque comes from, and how to develop more. and since you are not willing to change the rod/stroke ratio and compression, you are wasting your time. maybe after spending $2,000 on bolt-ons youll get 8-10 ft-lbs more.
or you could open up the bottom end, and spend $2,000 on rods, pistons, and another oem crank, you'll get 20 ft-lbs. but at the same time, youre going to increase displacement.
so basically, this is a lost cause. you like torque, buy a non-vtec b-series.
edit: flywheel issue. a lightened flywheel, like the fidanza, is only good for rally cars cause you can bang through the gears quicker with a lighter flywheel. but for drag cars, a lightened flywheel is only going to hurt your launch, 60-ft times, and so on. if you dont have the weight behind the power to spin the wheels, the engine is gonna fall flat.
drive an f3000 car and you will experience what im talking about. you have to launch at 7,000 rpm's just to get rollin, and even faster if you want to "chirp" a tyre.
you have to understand where torque comes from, and how to develop more. and since you are not willing to change the rod/stroke ratio and compression, you are wasting your time. maybe after spending $2,000 on bolt-ons youll get 8-10 ft-lbs more.
or you could open up the bottom end, and spend $2,000 on rods, pistons, and another oem crank, you'll get 20 ft-lbs. but at the same time, youre going to increase displacement.
so basically, this is a lost cause. you like torque, buy a non-vtec b-series.
edit: flywheel issue. a lightened flywheel, like the fidanza, is only good for rally cars cause you can bang through the gears quicker with a lighter flywheel. but for drag cars, a lightened flywheel is only going to hurt your launch, 60-ft times, and so on. if you dont have the weight behind the power to spin the wheels, the engine is gonna fall flat.
drive an f3000 car and you will experience what im talking about. you have to launch at 7,000 rpm's just to get rollin, and even faster if you want to "chirp" a tyre.
only good for rally cars, lol.
i understand what you mean by launching the car, but the benefit of a lightened flywheel are getting into your "powerband" faster. Remember, not everyone in this forum is a drag racer. Rev matching is good too.
Obviously, larger displacement will yield more torque. However, the poster wants to keep the stock bottom end, and these are good ideas.
Whoever said that a straight through exhaust will not make torque is uninformed. The backpressure statement is totally lost. This person needs to do more research.
i understand what you mean by launching the car, but the benefit of a lightened flywheel are getting into your "powerband" faster. Remember, not everyone in this forum is a drag racer. Rev matching is good too.
Obviously, larger displacement will yield more torque. However, the poster wants to keep the stock bottom end, and these are good ideas.
Whoever said that a straight through exhaust will not make torque is uninformed. The backpressure statement is totally lost. This person needs to do more research.
straight through exhaust is used in racing aswell as a 4-1 manifold as they dont need backpressure and dont need too much torque. For street use you need 4-2-1 manifold and an exhaust system that creates backpressure to get torque lower down. You will sacrafice a bit of top end with this put will gain lower down.
If a lighter flywheel were to help torque that much, then honda would of put one in the car, the original flywheel is ok for street use.
Dont try and think you know more then the guys at Honda, they usually know best.
If a lighter flywheel were to help torque that much, then honda would of put one in the car, the original flywheel is ok for street use.
Dont try and think you know more then the guys at Honda, they usually know best.
BACKPRESSURE does not help hp or tq.
I never said a light fw will give you MadD tQ daWg!!!! It will allow you to get into the power band quicker.
I never said a light fw will give you MadD tQ daWg!!!! It will allow you to get into the power band quicker.
it helps the torque lower down and sacrafices torque higher up. 4-2-1 creates more backpressure then a 4-1 thats why it it helps torque lower down and with a decent 4-2-1 you will get a benefit across the rev range. 4-1 manifold was used by Honda because they wanted to keep a flat torque curve.
Flywheel: my bad
Flywheel: my bad
BACKPRESSURE is BAD for hp and tq. Don't be deceived.

The b16 is still a 1.6. A well designed 4-2-1 header will not turn it into a torque monster.

The b16 is still a 1.6. A well designed 4-2-1 header will not turn it into a torque monster.
Backpressure is not a good thing...up high or down low. And, lighter flywheels are not used by honda because they are harder to drive, not because of torque reasons. Same with intakes...Honda did not only have maximum power as a design goal. Noise is also high on the list. Honda knows what's best for the masses, but this website, lighter flywheels, and aftermarket intakes are for enthusiasts.
too much backpressure is bad i agree, but to up it slightly would help torque lower down the power band ie a 4-2-1 manifold.
backpressure does help torque, this is for street use
they guy does not want to do intenals he wants basic bolt on to increaes torque, you should relize that the bolt ons i have told him about will increase torque and hp. I agree it not goint to push it past the 130flb mark. Increasing torque lower down is going to help.
backpressure does help torque, this is for street use
they guy does not want to do intenals he wants basic bolt on to increaes torque, you should relize that the bolt ons i have told him about will increase torque and hp. I agree it not goint to push it past the 130flb mark. Increasing torque lower down is going to help.
i am thinking in a cost effective way here and keeping in mind that he does not want to touch the internals. The honda intake sytem is a good system and to upgrade, it would have to be a carbon fibre system, and the best thing is to have the original box design but in carbon fibre with a high flow filter, also if you are able to do it, add a feed from the bumper. If you see spoon sports they do not have intake system that is radically different from the honda design.
If cost is a issue, heat wrapping the box is a better idea.
Lighter Flywheel: gains you throttle response not torque, i dont see how a lighter flywheel is harder to drive, it depends on what you prefer a kick in the back when going up a gear or faster engine response. Both have the same performace characteristics.
Modified by supaman111 at 6:21 PM 7/29/2004
If cost is a issue, heat wrapping the box is a better idea.
Lighter Flywheel: gains you throttle response not torque, i dont see how a lighter flywheel is harder to drive, it depends on what you prefer a kick in the back when going up a gear or faster engine response. Both have the same performace characteristics.
Modified by supaman111 at 6:21 PM 7/29/2004


