Just curious. I'm not trying to start any sort of conventional vs. synthetic oil debate (already read up on the 100's of threads about that).

Reason I ask is because I'm running a built B16A (84MM Benson Sleeves, JE pistons, Crower rods, built head, etc.) with only about 10000 miles and I'm burning oil pretty bad... about 1 quart every two weeks. I'm using Castrol GTX 10W-40. The oil burning occurs on start ups when the car has been sitting for a long period of time (not always but majority of the time). It also happens when I'm coming to a stop when I come off the freeway. It burns a little when I'm mashing on it as well. I'm guessing valve seals or maybe the rings but I was wondering if maybe built motors just naturally burn oil (forged pistons not being fully 'expanded' possibly cause it to burn a bit on start up?). It's odd that the motor is burning oil because I purchased it from a friend who ran it up to 8000 miles (I have put probably 2k on it so far) and it ran flawless. He ran 15W-40 though. Motor was built by reputable local machine shops so I hope it's nothing to do with incorrect installation/assembly.

So just out of curiosity, those of you with sleeved blocks and forged pistons, what type of oil do you use and do you experience any sort of oil burning? Like I said, I'm currently running Castrol GTX 10W-40 Conventional Oil but was thinking about trying Amsoil 10W-40 Synthetic. Probably isn't the smartest idea to go synthetic when I'm burning regular dino oil but oh well... no idea what the problem is anyways.

Thanks.

 

Castrol isn't all that great of an oil due to their old manufacturing techniques. I'm using Pennzoil 10w30 in all my built engines, and have yet to have a problem with any of them.

 

i would never use penzoil ive seen what it can do . but im not trying to start a huge debate .

i use amsoil 5w30

 

Royal purple!

 

mobil1 15w50

 

Heres my set up in a nutshell:
b18c5 block /benson sleeved/ earl assembled/
83mm cp 9:1
pauter rods
acl bearings
stock typr r head/intake manifold/cams

Less than 1000 miles on it, and I am not using any appreciable amount of oil.
When I first fired up the fresh motor, I used valvoline 10w30 non-synthetic, and let it run up to op temp and then changed it and went straight to the dyno for tuning. The 2nd oil change I did at about 400 miles, using the same type of oil, and at that point I checked the oil level before draining, and no appreciable amt of oil was consumed (mind you this is after tuning and getting 331whp out of the virgin motor). The most recent oil change at about 1000 miles was no different to earl/benson

I would not hesitate to suggest valvoline to anyone.

Sounds like valve seals by the description you gave above. Good luck

 

Anyone give this oil a try?

http://www.lelube.com/Products.asp#MotorOil The guys at import builders swear by it...

Directly off their site (could potentially be financially driven product promotion):
OIL: Any oil you buy at the store is going to work with your motor, as long as its close to the weight your motor needs. Most Honda motors are 5w30. So you could use 10W30, 5W30, 10W40 even perhaps. But what I am here to tell you is that you need to take advantage of the technology that is out there for protecting your motor. Get into additives. Or oil that has additives directly in it. The best damn oil on the market, and I have tested almost all of them, is definitely Leading Edge. http://www.lelube.com Leading edge is ester based oil, using base stocks from popular/leading brands you buy at AutoZone. It’s like, as you could say, Mobile 1 on steroids, or something along those lines. If you put this oil to the test on a bearing FALEX machine you learn real quick why its called the dominator around here. Here is a little chart to clue you in.


BEARING WEAR TEST
X Lbs of force on bearing before bearing SIEZED and was scared heavily.

Mobil 1 3W30 Synthetic
3 LBS of weight and a large scar on the bearing appeared and it seized.


Leading Edge 5W30 blend
I ran out of weights…25+ LBS of weight and the damn bearing is still spinning!


Not only that, but you could get a rag, and WIPE off the bearing, and the lubricant, and the stupid bearing would still take 10+ LBS of weight because the ester based chemical in it bonds to the metal. To get the entire LE off the bearing, you have to spray the hell out of it with CARB cleaner and wipe it off with a new rag. When doing the oil tests on every brand, including NEO, MOTUL, AMSOIL, TORCO, etc, you could add just 1 drop, 1 DROP of the LE to any of them and it would instantly triple, or quadruple the weight you could add to the bearing.

 

I would go with AMS Oil 5w30 over any oil. Tried Royal Purple and Red line wasn't very impressed.

 

2.0 Liter F20C, Vortech Supercharger, 10.2:1 Compression, 6.5 lbs boost, 362.9 hp. AMSOIL 10/30

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by birz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mobil1 15w50</TD></TR></TABLE>

i second that!! this oil turns to water after driving all day long. couldn't imagine what something thinner would turn to.

 

I use GTX in all my cars.

Here is some interesting propaganda...
http://www.quakerstate.com/pag...w.asp

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by markaria &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I would not hesitate to suggest valvoline to anyone.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I second that. First from NA motor. Valvoline burn little less then 3/8 of a quart on 4500+ miles! Weird enough, ive tried it out and none the less. Seems to work Great!

Finally got boosted...Moved to Mobile-1 10w30
Just to give it a shot and try it out. Lots swear by it. So maybe I should join in and see how it goes?

 

Valvoline here...

 

i use mobil 10w-30 synth

 

Wal-Mart just started selling a generic synthetic oil. I cant wait to try it...

 

Amsoil 20W50 Series 2000 Racing Oil

 

on my built forged motor

i am using Valvoline Synthetic Blend 10-30

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eluzion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He ran 15W-40 though. Motor was built by reputable local machine shops so I hope it's nothing to do with incorrect installation/assembly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

15w-40 is some thick *** oil to be running through a new motor IMO. If the head was rebuilt then I hope the valve guide seals were replaced so you shouldn't be losing oil through there. It sounds like the rings didn't seat right or your friend beat the living crap out of the motor before you got it.

 

It sounds like your motor wasn't broken in safely/properly if your burning oil. Earl just made a thread about this a few weeks ago. Did you break it in with the stock ECU? base map?

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=878397

 

mobil1 5w-20 15w-50 or 0w-20
i swicth back in forth but i change my oil every 1000 miles

 

i think i might try that leading edge oil

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hella_JDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would never use penzoil ive seen what it can do . but im not trying to start a huge debate .

i use amsoil 5w30</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hmm....I've never had a problem with Pennzoil. What did you see it do?

 

ive seen it turn a sluge like a clay and mud mix . and i have seen it turn solid as a rock.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hella_JDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive seen it turn a sluge like a clay and mud mix . and i have seen it turn solid as a rock. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not saying I don't believe you, but what conditions did you put it under to make it do that?

 

I use Castrol syntec blend, thinking about trying royal purple though.