I aquired a D16Z6 engine to but in my 90 civic si and i'm salvaging my ARP studs out of my A6 to go in the Z6.

My question is; what should i tourque the studs to in the Z6? i tourqued the a6 to 67ft/lbs but since the z6 gasket is 3 layer i didnt know if it needed more or less.

Also the engine i bought was put together with a new hg tourqued down it didnt run and then was taken apart. Is the HG still useable since it wasn't even on the motor long or do i need another one?
I know the composite or whatever A6 gasket cannot be reused under any circumstance but i didnt know about the Z6.

 

hah good luck man! bump

 

bump

 

For the d16z6 tighten the all the head stud bolts to 22ft lbs first then tighten all head stud bolts a second time to 55ft lbs.

 

i'm using studs not bolts

and 55lbs is not enough =-O
i can hand tighten them to that!!!! (not really but 67 felt kinda weak for my A6 and the z6 gasket is the metal one and that doesn't compress as easily as the a6 composite one)

 

ARP specs for Y8 is 60ft-lbs with their moly lube

 

I'd be careful using the a6 studs for the z6, since the z6 studs have a separate part number compared to the "d16" studs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sporkcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd be careful using the a6 studs for the z6, since the z6 studs have a separate part number compared to the "d16" studs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats funny; i ordered the d16Z6 studs from lightningmotorsports and the arp guy and the guy @ lightningmotorsports said they were the same

and they fit perfectly.

and i torqued them down to 75lbs as per someone elses instructions; they've ran like that for a while with the mls gasket and had no problems with a boosted motor. i torqued them in 4 steps 20 40 60 and 70; dont know if that was right but i had nothing to go by.
i guess i'll find out in a few days/weeks if it blows that i didnt do it right :-p