I need to get dimensions on the upper control arm bushings. If ANYONE has calipers or a mic or whatever and can get me the dimensions of this part, please post it up here for all of our benefit. I don't have time to go junkyard diving during the day and weekends are taken up with, oh noes! Driving! I would buy one individually but everything either requires you to buy a whole control arm or costs a lot and isn't the same as stock, which is what I need to know. Please help if you have this information! I'm tired of having to be slizzamed just to barely get -2 degrees of camber.

 

It might help if you let us know what vehicle you are requesting information on. We are not mind readers!

 

I'm thinking of a car........

 

EK? I have a set in my garage, I'll try to find my digital calipers later today if nobody gets in before me...

 

I'd guess its his '00 Civic SI.

Rich, you should flame yourself for not posting the car

 

rich, fwiw, when i made offset delrin bushings for my car i didn't gain enough negative camber to justify the effort and ride quality penalty. i used a relatively thick center bushing though and kept the "thin" side of the bushing at least .125" thick. i was only able to get .125" total offset from center with those restrictions. imo you're better off not bothering and just dealing with a sucky static camber setting. or bending something by accident... :evil:

nate

 

I probably can't help then... I was going to pull out my calipers but it would be for the 5th gen coupe

 

WHAT CAR? Stupid noobs...

Nate, I'm sure you're right about this, but then again I thought my car rode like crap with my 600/800 setup and the Konis on full soft so I turn them up on the street. Your advice gone horribly wrong. Precedent?


Modified by TeamSlowdotOrg at 2:35 PM 6/29/2004

 

JEEEZ.
I have two out of my 1992 CX right here...
oh,
wait,
doh....
you drive that fat pig '99Si

 

Stupid noobs?

 

I was flaming myself.

1/8" is plenty of material for a delrin bushing not to break since it's not seeing tons of twistyness there, the dimension that worries me is the clearance betwixt the control arm itself and the inside of the shock tower. Right inside of where the bushings and bolts create the pivot point there is more metal going past the arm toward the tower and that leaves not a whole lot of space.

Argh. I'm going to go ahead and quit cars.

 

Well done.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamSlowdotOrg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nate, I'm sure you're right about this, but then again I thought my car rode like crap with my 600/800 setup and the Konis on full soft so I turn them up on the street. Your advice gone horribly wrong. Precedent?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think the precedent was set long, long, long ago. i thought my comments on shocks were in reference to revalved shocks? aren't you on OTS shocks still?? bah, don't matter. ride quality is sooo subjective.

i take back what i said about just dealing with the sucky static camber you've got. just because it didn't work for me on my car doesn't mean a different approach and a different car will fail as well. hell, you got me thinking of going back and revising my original approach and trying again. good luck, and remember to use a set screw or pin to keep the bushing from rotating inside the collar.

nate

 

Ack, I don't want to hear good luck, I want someone to sell me something. Stupid lack of replicator technology. I am still on OTS Konis and the revalved units are on their way as of this afternoon, so as soon as they get here I'm sure to be eating foot.

 

Big thanks to Clayton Goldsmith of King Motorsports (Ausmith) for taking time out of his busy schedule of peddling JDM blingage and getting me the measurements for this part.

Ausmith


Posted here for everyone's knowledgeation:

Inner = small part of the bushing that the bolt passes through
Outer = large part of the bushing that is pressed into the arm

Inner OD - 24.5mm
Inner ID - 11.10mm (bolt passes through this)
Inner width - 47.60mm (total length of bushing)

Outer OD - 34.0mm
Outer width - 24.15mm
Outer Section is centered on the inner bushing section.


ARCHIV'D!

 

Just curious, why not install the eccentric bushings where the LCA connects to the chassis? Its at a point closer to the axis of the hub, meaning less offset will be required compared to the upper mount to achieve the same negative camber at the wheel. Besides, doing the lower will increase the track slightly and not present the same issues with the spring contact.

Just a thought.

rdj

 

Back from the dead, from where does one procure said offset eccentric bushings? Are they custom made to order from ES or something?

 

Make them your self. Just buy a piece of Delrin (2" diameter) and machine it to fit the arms....I made 2 piece units that can be pressed into [ with 0.020" inference fit to eliminate rotation! ] the arms. Drill the center hole offset the desired amount. Takes about 15 minutes to machine per corner and the Delrin was about US$12 PER FOOT.

FYI, Delrin machines like a hot knife through butter. Good Luck!

rdj

 

That's a good idea too, and one I'm going to try if it comes down to it and I still need more static camber. I'd rather fool with the upper stuff now because I'm going to have the upper control arms off for new balljoints this winter.